| 近 日下過幾場大雪的上海，難得在今天突然放晴， 2005 年 2 月 20 日中午我坐在「外灘三號」 4 樓 Jean-Georges 餐館的 Lounge 邊，等待朋友們的來臨。 |
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陸續來到的客人，資格最長的是肖關鴻先生、陳保平先生及夫人陳丹燕女士，另外有陳墾、孫哲、季欣麟、費國禛、顧明等諸位先生。
我們一行人在 Lounge 區內，坐在以鰻魚皮包裹的低靠背逍遙椅上，打量著 5 米高天花板上華麗的銅箔。上海 Jean-Georges 餐廳的裝潢有強烈的國際都會感，讓人彷彿置身在紐約、巴黎、米蘭最時尚奢華的餐館之內。
Jean-Georges 主廚的廚藝王國，如今遍及紐約、芝加哥、拉斯維加斯、倫敦、香港、新加坡、上海，旗下有 16 家餐館。在 Forbes 富豪排行榜上，只有他和另一位廚師入選。 2003 年，英國最權威的飲食雜誌 Restaurant Magazine 將其評選成全球 50 名傑出廚師中排名第 4 。
號稱是亞洲最年輕的女性侍酒師 Yvonne 來自新加坡，為大家端來餐前酒，我喝著芬香的荔枝香檳調酒，孫哲喝著蘋果味馬丁尼，有人喝流行紐約的招牌百香果香檳調酒，大家聊了一會，才移駕到靠長窗邊的深酒紅色餐桌。
Jean-Georges 餐廳面積有 1500 平方米 ( 約 450 坪 ) ，但真正用來擺放餐桌椅的空間只佔一小區，位於景觀最好的一邊，可以眺望兩邊長窗外的黃浦江面。外灘三號整棟大樓的位置很好，立在凸出的岬角上，夏天可向前眺望小陸家嘴，又可回顧外灘。 |
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我坐在窗邊的長桌上，眼睛直視的水平距離剛好落在江面上，讓人偶而會產生一種幻覺，有如自己正坐在一艘向遠方開出的遊輪上。在 50 年前，黃浦江一直是東方和西方夢想的交界，多少艘船在此進進出出，在沈寂了半世紀之後，黃浦江又開始熱鬧起來，國際人士又回到了外灘。新加坡人李景漢把傾頹的百年洋樓變身為華麗的「外灘三號」，還親自到紐約請到 Jean-Georges 主廚來設立一家夢幻餐廳。於是傳奇再度展開。從 1995 年到 2005 年，不到 10 年之間，上海的城市美食史以超快的魔幻速度，從「紅房子餐廳」的舊俄法式大餐，一直過渡到 Jean-Georges 餐廳的紐約新派盛宴。
今日，第一道上的 Egg Caviar ( 雞蛋魚子醬 ) ，立即令眾人眼睛為之一亮。端坐在盛器上的淺褐色雞蛋殼中，鮮奶泡彷彿白色浪花般湧出，在浪花蕊上是ㄧ顆顆亮黑色晶瑩的鱒魚魚子。我用小匙勺起小嚐了一口，魚子醬溫柔地化在口中，我忍不住輕聲嗯了一聲。美味當前，陳保平的眼神也變得興奮起來；肖關鴻說這魚子醬真好吃，其餘的人都沈默著，有股神聖的氣息飄過，大家都屏氣專心吃著。繼續往下挖，黑色魚子的下方是煮成半生熟的雞蛋黃，吃在口中是那麼柔嫩，溫熱的雞蛋的甜香配上冰涼魚子鹹香，不同的溫度和味覺，便成了雙協奏。魚子輕盈的一粒一粒的口感混合著柔滑的鮮奶泡和蛋汁，挑逗著舌尖。
Yvonne ?我們搭配了 Bollinger NV Special Cuvee ，香檳清香冷冽，口感柔細，讓口中充滿回韻。大家仍在讚嘆這開場菜設計的好，一下子就令人眼為之驚艷、口為之愛戀、心為之奪魂。這道菜人人皆說好。
第二道菜是 Sea Scallops with Caper-Raisin Emulsion, caramelized cauliflower ( 深海扇貝配刺山柑沙司、焦糖金色花菜 ) 。 Jean-Georges 主廚在餐後告訴我，他選材用料極嚴格，不僅絕不用冷凍貨，就連保鮮也不能超過 24 小時。扇貝來自大連，煎的火侯也剛好，微焦帶脆，貝心還是嫩的。白花菜裹著焦糖煎成褐金薄片，甜中有鹹，帶著焦味中的微苦，細膩的滋味變幻著。這道菜孫哲很喜歡，尤其喜歡甜甜脆脆焦焦的花菜，但陳懇表示他不太習慣花菜變得像甜餅。陳保平說這都是口味慣性，像他就怕東南亞菜系又甜又酸的味道，可有人特別喜歡，我就是那種人，因此我也很喜歡沾干貝的 Caper-Raisin Emulsion 混合的甜酸味。別忘了 Jean-Georges 主廚 從泰國菜中學了不少祕笈的。第二道菜搭配的酒是德國 Dr. Loosen R kabinette Riesling 2003 ，這個配法深得我心， Riesling 品種最配有點酸酸甜甜的食物。
第三道菜是 Foie Gras Brule, Dried Sour Cherries, Candied Pistachio ( 法式煎鵝肝配酸櫻桃、糖心開心果 ) 。鵝肝煎得嫩滑入口即化，有美好的可接受的微腥；向來不喜歡海鮮腥味的孫哲，卻表示他很迷法式煎鵝肝的腥味。肖關鴻覺得法國人處理鵝肝的確有一套，酸櫻桃及糖心開心果搭配鵝肝，也化解了鵝肝的肥膩，吃起來更爽口。我之前在 這裡 吃過兩次鵝肝，卻沒有今天處理得好，怎麼回事 ? 今天的鵝肝煎得黃褐中閃著粉紅光彩，卻不見血絲，夠軟滑卻不會太生，真是一流的手藝。 Jean-Georges 主廚 告訴我，他請本地農夫為餐館特別養鵝，才能保證鵝肝夠新鮮。這道菜的配酒，仍是 Riesling ，冰涼的白酒令味蕾清新，細細回味微溫的鵝肝滋味以及酸櫻桃的甘酸。
第四道菜上的是 Young Garlic Soup with Thyme, Sauteed Frog Legs （蒜蓉香草湯配香煎牛蛙腿）。 這道菜可以用手拿起小牛蛙腿沾湯吃，陳保平覺得這道菜很有亞洲風味。孫哲覺得蒜蓉香草湯溫度略低，也覺得湯中的香草不夠活 ( 也許是昨天降的大雪害的吧 !) 。這道蛙腿配上了這一陣子最流行的 Pinot Noir ( 黑皮諾 )---Villa Mount Eden Pinot Noir 2000 ， Napa Valley 。有人 Riesling 還沒喝完，其實有什麼關係呢 ? 青蛙是兩棲動物，水上陸地跳來跳去，紅酒白酒均好。
第五道是 Turbot, Chateau Chalon Sauce, Tomato and Zucchini ( 夏龍比目魚配蕃茄小節瓜 ) 。一小塊比目魚用清蒸的，沾上法國 Jura 山區特別的 Chateau Chalon 不甜白酒作成的醬料。我用手指試了一下沾料，有清幽的酒香，拿來沾清蒸的比目魚，口味很細緻。比目魚很新鮮，來自渤海灣，自然不同於解凍魚。 Jean-Georges 主廚表示 知道中國人很懂得吃魚，一定要挑最新鮮的材料才行。陳保平表示比目魚蒸的火候極好，不生不老，然而中國人吃蒸魚，更講究吃魚骨上夾的活肉。但我想這種煮法在紐約的 Jean-Georges 餐廳 一定夠受歡迎了，東方的蒸法當然比炸、焗、烤出來的魚要鮮嫩多了。可惜，番茄、小節瓜的味道缺乏了陽光的滋味，這也難怪，此時本是深冬，那麼這套菜是不是換成冬天的蔬菜會好一點呢？譬如，換成冬天很好吃的蕪菁。配酒仍是 Pinot Noir 紅酒，今天的菜以海鮮為主，如果一直配白酒，未免太無趣，因此 Yvonne 才想到用比較柔美清雅的黑皮諾來配口味比較深沈的海鮮 ，而 Chateau Chalon Sauce 的韻味也讓黑皮諾來喚醒了。
第六道菜是 Lobster Tartine, Lemongrass, Fenugreek Broth, Pea Shoots ( 檸檬草龍蝦配胡蘿蔔汁和小豌豆苗 ) 。我吃了一口龍蝦，搭配檸檬草的香味令我心神立即清明，獨特的香草氣息迴旋鼻心。這是 Jean-Georges 主廚 最愛的香料。我想起早年去過幾次曼谷的著名餐館就叫 Lemongrass ，那裡有我摯愛的冬蔭功湯；這道菜可能是 Jean-Georges 主廚 受冬蔭功湯的啟發而改良的，除掉了許多人不能接受的辣度，只保留檸檬草的芳香。龍蝦也用蒸的，但蒸的火候好極了，已經剝殼的龍蝦背肉口感軟中微生，咬起來又有勁，味道鮮甜，真不輸中式蒸龍蝦。季欣麟也表示，他覺得龍蝦的 texture 處理得非常好，鮮度很高。常常吃中國美食的肖關鴻則表示龍蝦的確做得不錯，比中國的原隻蒸龍蝦更細緻，吃起來也比較優雅。這道菜的配酒是 Beringer Founder's Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 ， Napa 。檸檬草的味道不大適合 Cabernet Sauvignon 。
第七道菜是 Broiled Squab ,Onion Compote, Sunteed Foie Gras, Corn Pancake ( 香烤乳鴿配燴洋蔥、玉米餅和肥鵝肝）。不知道是否對前面的龍蝦太滿意，還是眾人至此已覺飽足，大家對乳鴿的反應一般，都說不如廣式烤乳鴿那麼皮脆肉緊。當然乳鴿處理也不差，只是不夠好，更何況還是最後一道菜，味覺至此自然更挑剔了。不過，配菜的玉米餅和鵝肝依然可口。我發現雖然大夥不甚滿意，但人人依然把烤乳鴿吃完了。果然 Cabernet Sauvignon 較強烈的口感很適合烤乳鴿。
此時，餐廳中的其他客人大多都散去了，我們漫長的周日午宴也只剩下最後一場戲了，會是什麼樣的收尾呢？大家的胃似乎都已裝滿了，還吃得下什麼樣的甜點呢？
甜點上桌時，我忍不住小小的驚叫一聲，天哪！四方大白磁盤上分列四格，放著四式甜點。每道菜都會為大夥解說的漂亮女侍，說明這四式甜點要按次序，從左下方以順時針方向吃完一圈。
大夥安靜地照秩序品味。先喝 Warm Peanut milk, salt Flaker, Milk Chocolat Syrup ( 溫花生奶漿、鹽之花瓣、巧克力奶露 ) 。甜香柔細濃郁的花生、巧克力奶露順口滑入，但喝到底卻發現甜味帶鹹，原來像玻璃試管般的透明長杯底有鹹脆上漂的鹽之花，甜與鹹交合在舌尖，引起了大夥的驚奇。
第二份甜點是 Citrus Salad, lime Granite, Candied Thyme ( 酸甜冰涼橘子萊姆百里香冰泥花 ) 。 多層次的味覺再度挑戰口腔的敏感，本以為已經吃不太下甜點的我，至此卻又再度開了胃口。接著吃第三份的 Almond Souffle Cake ( 杏仁舒馥蕊蛋糕 ) ，每一位都讚嘆出聲，如此鬆軟飽和香甜細滑真像雪花一般入口即化，絕對是我畢生吃過最好的雞蛋糕。後來我想到最好的形容詞是「這雞蛋糕還在呼吸」。本來已經略顯疲態的肖關鴻如今眼中帶笑、連聲讚美，直說中式甜品自是比不上。寡言的陳丹燕也表示，從封閉年代走來的她，知道從前雞蛋糕像饅頭的滋味，吃到如此濃香有彈性的雞蛋糕，才見識到法式甜點的非凡魅力。季欣麟表示蛋糕的鬆軟超出想像，有觸覺的歡喜。是像嬰兒的皮膚般令人歡喜嗎？
如果說這四式甜點隱藏了熱火、冰水、柔風的訊息，那麼最後一式 Jean-Georges Chocolate Cake ( 招牌熱巧克力蛋糕 ) ，就彷彿火山般讓人難忘。切開濃郁的巧克力蛋糕，流出彷彿熔岩般的熱巧克力，巧克力味既厚實又敏感，是巧克力痴者不可錯過的盛物。陳丹燕說這才是巧克力真正的滋味。孫哲說他不愛吃巧克力，無法評論。我說，孫哲啊你明白你損失了多少樂趣嗎？
法式甜點讓漫長的午宴，在最終有了高潮，甜點擄獲了每個人的心，大家一致公認結尾是最棒的，就像 Jean-Georges 主廚 的新食譜， Simple + Spectacular 。這法式甜點亦是從簡單到奇觀，口味如萬花筒般馥郁曼妙，轉化出多層次的味蕾感受。 費國禛說彷彿音樂旋律般，這讓我想到威瓦第的四季，那麼甜點的次序是春、夏、秋、冬嗎？陳墾也很欣賞甜點安排的次序，彷彿四幕劇般。陳保平表示今天他最喜歡的兩道菜就是開始的魚子醬及收尾的甜點，都顯示出法國菜特別細膩的手法。
盛宴已經?入尾聲。偶而留在繁華若夢的氣氛中還是不錯的。雖然窗外天色已慢慢昏黃，我還是叫了 Grappa ( 義大利葡萄果渣烈酒 ) ，尚有酒力的人慢慢啜飲著透明的白乾，望著暮靄在長窗外徘徊。
今天這場盛宴，比我前幾次來 Jean-Georges 餐廳都更令人滿意，這點和 Jean-Georges 本人親自坐鎮是否有關呢？這點恐怕要 Jean-Georges 本人繼續傷腦筋了，畢竟這家餐館打的是他的字號，全球直接以「 Jean-Georges 」為名的餐館不過才兩家嘛！。 Jean-Georges 主廚又說他愛死了這餐廳的室內設計及窗外風景 。的確，晚上來到此處，確有「浮生若夢」的感覺。
餐會後的訪問裡， Jean-Georges 主廚曾自我比方：他的靈魂是法國的，頭腦是紐約的，但他卻把心給了亞洲。如果拿這個比喻，仔細觀察 Jean-Georges 主廚如何建構他的廚藝王國，倒可以發現些有意思的端倪。
Jean-Georges 廚藝王國起初是以 Jo Jo ， Vong 和 Jean-Georges 幾家餐廳為主。都是以 Contemporary French Cooking 為核心， Jo Jo 及 Jean-Georges 偏向法式新派料理，而 Vong 的走向則是泰法融合料理。但之後 Jean-Georges 主廚竟然在紐約開設了 Vong Thai Kitchen ，變成以泰國菜主導而以法國手藝為佐。洋人賣泰菜已經夠大膽了，之後 Jean-Georges 主廚竟然又開設了賣新派中菜的「 66 餐廳」，更讓時尚餐飲界大吃一驚。 Jean-Georges 主廚的跨文化演出，是飲食無國界的象徵，身為法國人的他也曾公開表示，他最愛吃的食物，一是泰國菜，二是中國菜，第三才是法國菜。
Jean-Georges 主廚說，他一直把餐廳當成「人生的旅行」，而他是一個喜歡融合文化差異的人；他認為東方與西方，就跟中國的陰陽一般，可以是一體的。
上海，一直是東方與西方的交界融合之處；一個東方與西方同時存在的夢，又在上海發生了。
週日的午宴，不過是記錄這一場難得的飲宴之夢吧！
A fter several snow storms swept through Shanghai , the sun finally returned with its rare peak today. The date was February 20, 2005 , I was sitting at the lounge of Jean-Georges Shanghai Restaurant, located on the fourth floor of the chic address, Three on the Bund, waiting for my friends to arrive.
One by one my guests arrived: Mr. Kwen-Hong SHAO, Mr. and Mrs. Pao-Ping Chen, Mr. Kevin CHEN, Mr. Zhe SUN, Mr. Tom CHI, Mr. Kuo-Chung FEI and Mr. Ming KU.
At the lounge sitting on the leather bar stools, we surveyed the 5 meter ceiling, covered with ornate sheets of copper. The decor of Jean-Georges Shanghai resonates a strong sense of international urban flare; one cannot help feel but as if having been transported to the most luxurious and fashionable dining establishment in New York , Paris or Milan .
Jean-Georges' culinary empire has extended from New York to Chicago , Las Vegas , London , Hong Kong , Singapore and Shanghai with sixteen restaurants. There is only one other chef besides Jean-Georges who made the Forbes Top 100 Celebrities List. The prestigious British magazine, Restaurant Magazine ranks him fourth in the top 50 best chefs of the world. |
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Yvonne Chiong from Singapore - the youngest female sommelier of Asia - brought us welcome cocktails. I sipped a Lychee Champagne; Zhe SUN chose an Apple Martini. Another guest chose the ubiquitous Cosmopolitan, a New Yorker's favorite. We chatted for a while before we were moved to our dining table, draped with bordeaux-red table cover, situated next to a long bank window.
Jean-Georges Shanghai occupies a space of approximately 1500 square meters, but the dining area takes up only a small portion of the area that offers a stunning view of the Bund from two long window banks. Three on the Bund Mansion is situated perfectly on the isthmus on the Bund. In the summer, one can see as far as Lujazui.
As I admire the river from my seat right along the window bank, I felt as if I were sitting on a yacht ready to set sails. Fifty years ago, Huangpu River was the crossway between the East and the West. After half a century of dormancy, Huangpu River is reclaiming its fame and the Bund once again is the place of choice for international elites. Singapore investor Ching-Han LI renovated the historical building that was near ruin to the luxurious Three on the Bund Mansion of today. He then went to New York and personally invited Jean-Georges to open a restaurant here. Thus, the legend begins. In less than ten years from 1995 to 2005, Shanghai 's culinary history is changing at a magical speed from the “Red House”, famous for its Russian-French cuisine, to Jean-Georges Shanghai, celebrating modern cuisine from New York .
Our feast began with Egg Caviar. Immediately the guests were captivated. The brown egg sat in a cup, from which creme fraiche foams sprang undulating waves with stark black caviar riding atop. I tasted it with a small egg spoon, allowing the caviars gently melt in my mouth. Unknowingly I uttered a small “ummm.” With such culinary feast in front of us, Chia-Pao CHEN had sparkles in his eyes; Kwen-Hong SHAO exclaimed, “Simply delicious.” Other guests remained silent, immersed in this almost “holy” moment of gastronomic ecstasy. Underneath the caviars, the softly cooked egg yolk had a very gentle taste in mouth. The combination of the luke-warm sweetly fragrant egg and the slightly salty chilled caviars was a delightful duet of temperature and taste. One by one, the dainty caviars tickled my tongue with the smooth creme fraiche and juices from the egg.
Yvonne selected Bollinger NV Special Cuvee for this starter dish. This champagne has a simple, almost icy, fragrance; a taste that is smooth, gentle and truly memorable. Guests were all at awe with this spectacular starter dish, their mouths in love and their hearts fully surrendered. Our compliment was unanimous.
The second course was Sea Scallops with Caper-Raison Emulsion, Caramelized Cauliflower. Masterchef Jean-Georges told me post dining that the selection of ingredients is extremely meticulous. No frozen frocks are ever used, and no fresh items are kept for more than 24 hours. The scallops were from Dalien and sauteed to just the right heat, slightly burnt to a crisp outside, yet leaving the heart of the scallops soft. Cauliflowers were wrapped with “golden sheaths” of caramels, sweet yet slightly salty and faintly burnt – a sensational mix of delicate flavors. Zhe SUN was especially captivated by this dish; he particularly enjoyed the sweet--crisp-burnt flavors of the cauliflowers. Kevin CHEN said he was not used to eating cauliflowers like sweet cakes. Pao-Ping CHEN replied and said it is all a matter of personal preference. He himself, for example, is not a fan of the sweet and sour taste of Southeast Asian cuisines, but many others fall for exactly this feature. I am one of the “others” he described. I enjoyed the sweet and sour sauce of the Caper-Raisin Emulsion. Forget not that Jean-Georges has amassed quite a bit of secrets from the cuisine of Thailand . The wine accompanied this dish was Dr. Loosen Kabinette Rieseling 2003 - an excellent choice in my opinion, as Riesling is best with sweet and sour dishes.
The third course was Foie Gras Brule, Dried Sour Cherris, candied Pistachio. The foie gras melt almost immediately in my mouth, exuding wonderfully just a light aroma of faint rawness. Never a fan of raw flavor, Zhe SUN is nevertheless taken by the raw flavor from the foie gras. Kwen-Hong SHAO admittedly proclaimed that one should leave it to the French when it comes to foie gras, as what could better complement the rich taste of foie gras but the light and fresh flavors of dried sour cherries and candied pistachio? I had foie gras here twice before, but this experience surpassed the previous two. Why? The foie gras today was prepared to show a glorious yellow-brown hue hinting with pink, yet without a hint of blood red; it was soft and smooth but not too raw, truly top rate technique in handling this delicacy. Jean-Georges told me that he works with local farmers to raise special geese in order to guarantee the freshness and the superior taste of foie gras. The wine accompanied this dish was still the Riesling. This chilled white livened up our taste buds, and we savored every morsel of the warm foie gras with the tart taste of the dried sour cherries.
The fourth course was Young Garlic Soup with Thyme, Sauteed Frog Legs. One consumes the frog legs by hand after dipping them in the soup. Pao-Ping CHEN commented that this dish echoed the flavors of Asia . Zhe SUNG commented that the soup is a tad too cold and the thymes tasted not fresh enough (maybe due to the recent snow storms?) The dish was accompanied with the popular Pinot Noir, Villa Mount Eden Pinot Noir 2002, Napa Valley . A few guests were still enjoying their Riesling. But so what? Frogs are amphibious, so both read and white wines make fine companies.
The fifth course was Turbot, Chateau Chalon Sauce, Tomato and Zucchini. The turbot was steamed and dipped in a sauce made by a special unsweetened white wine from Chateau Chalon of Jura, France. I tasted the sauce alone; it had a light flavor of wine and made a wonderfully delicate sauce for the steamed turbot. The turbot was caught fresh from Pong Bay , not thawed from frozen stock. Jean-Georges explained that the Chinese are expert in preparing fish; he selects only the freshest catch for the dish. Pao-Ping CHEN said the turbot was steamed to perfection, neither too tender nor overcooked. However, Chinese especially savor the almost raw fish meat sticking to the bones when steamed. Eastern method prefers steaming to frying, baking or au-gratin. Sadly, the tomatoes and zucchini lacked s sunny taste, perhaps because we were still in the midst of winter. Thus, we wondered whether this dish would be more spectacular using a selection of winter vegetables instead. The wine of choice was still Pinot Noir. Since our dining menu was seafood focused, white wine alone could very well become a bore. Yvonne choice was excellent by selecting an elegant yet light Pinot Noir to complement the flavorful seafood, and Chateau Chalon sauce further awakened the aroma of Pinot Noir.
The sixth course was Lobster Tartine, Lemongrass, Fenugreek Broth, Pea Shoots. The first bite of the lobster awakened my senses with the unique fragrance of lemongrass. Lemongrass is Jean-Georges' favorite spice. The taste suddenly reminded me of my visit to a famous Bangkok restaurant, aptly named Lemongrass, where I tasted the most exquisite Tom Yam Goong. Jean-Georges' inspiration for this dish may very well be the beloved Tom Yam Goong but without the spicy flavor that many find hard to tolerate, yet keeping the exquisite aroma of the lemongrass. Lobsters were also steamed in this dish, again to perfection. The meat is tender yet slightly raw, creating a wonderful bounce in mouth while chewing. The flavor was no less lustrous than that of a Chinese-style steamed lobster. Tom CHI said he admired the texture of the lobster meat that in which the fresh flavors were completely preserved. A devoted Chinese food gourmand, Kwen-Ling SHAO said this dish was truly excellent, even superior to the Chinese-style steamed lobster, not to mention its elegant presentation. This dish was accompanied by Beringer Founder's Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, Napa . However, lemongrass and Cabernet Sauvignon may not be the best partners.
The seventh course was Broiled Squab, Onion Compote, Sauteed Foie Gras, Corn Pancake. I was not sure whether we were completely taken by the exquisite lobster dish or maybe just getting full, we all found that the squab cannot compare with the Cantonese-style baked squab with its crispy skin and firm meat. Of course, the squab here was still prepared with skills, but not excellent in our opinions. Being the last dish presented, it did not grab us especially as our tastes have evolved to more critical than ever. Nevertheless, the corn pancake and foie gras were still excellent and delicious, and I noticed that even though the squab did not earn a high mark among the guests, nothing was left on their plates. As expected, the strong flavor of Cabernet Sauvignon was a good choice for the squab.
By now, most other restaurant visitors have departed. As the end of this luncheon drew near, we wondered what could be the end note. When desserts were presented, I was most pleasantly taken by surprise. The desserts were presented on a large square porcelain plate that was divided into four separate sections, and there was a different dessert in each section. The charming waitress explained to us, as she did for all previous dishes, how to enjoy the desserts. They were designed to be consumed in a specific sequence, from the lower left corner following the clockwork going around.
We duly followed her instructions and began the tasting. First we drank Warm Peanut Milk, Salt Flakers, Milk Chocolate Syrup. Sweet, delicate yet rich peanuts in a chocolate emulsion slip into our mouths effortlessly, but at the end the sweetness was laced with a salty flavor. The mystery was solved by our discovery there were salt crumbles at the bottom of tube-like glass container. The unison taste of sweet and salty aroused everyone's curiosity.
The second dessert was Citrus Salad, Lime Granite, Candied Thyme. Once again, the multi-layered flavors challenged our sensitivity of flavors. I thought I was going to turn it down but it actually livened up my appetite once again. The third dessert was Almond Souffle Cake. Everyone agreed what a triumph it was! It was extremely fluffy, rich, fragrant and enticing, like snowflakes that just melt in your mouth. This was definitely the best cake I have tasted in my life so far. I later thought about how to best describe it and concluded that, “This cake is full of life.” Upon tasting this cake, Kwen-Hong SHAO no longer appeared somewhat fatigued; instead, he enthusiastically gave praises and compliments, saying that “No Chinese desserts can compare to this wonderful cake.” Even the rather silent guest, Den-Yen CHEN commented that she had lived through the decades during which China was a closed country and only had cakes that tasted nothing more than a “meng-tao” (plain Chinese steamed bun), now she truly understand the magical charm of French desserts, so moist and delicious in the mouth. Tom CHI commented the fluffiness of the cake was beyond his imagination, a pure joy for the sense of touch, as irresistible as a baby's skin.
If these four desserts embodied the sentiment of passionate fire, icy water and gentle breeze, the tour-de-force must be the last course - Jean-Georges' signature Chocolate Cake, as unforgettable as a gourmet volcano. The hot chocolate syrup deluged the cake when it was sliced like larvae flowing out from a volcano. The chocolate tasted ample rich yet full of senses; this dessert is a must for chocolate connoisseurs. Den-Yen CHEN said now she knows what chocolate really should taste like. Zhe SUN said he could not comment on it because he is not a chocolate fan. I replied to him that indeed he missed the opportunity to taste an extraordinary pleasure.
The dessert course definitely captivated every guest's heart, and it could not have been a more perfect ending for a long luncheon feast. As Jean-Georges described his new menu: simple + spectacular. The French desserts may be simple at first glance, but gastronomic wonders they are, brining a kaleidoscope of tastes to the mouth. Kuo-Cheng FEI said the dessert course reminded him of Vivaldi's Four Seasons: spring, summer, autumn and winter. Kevin CHEN also gave high marks for the sequence of the four desserts, pure drama with four powerful scenes. Pao-Ping CHEN said the two favorite courses he tasted today were the opening caviar and the ending desserts, both best exemplified the triumphs of French cuisine.
Towards the end of our feast, we only wished to savor the last taste of luxury. We ordered a Grappa, watching passing of day to dusk from the window banks.
I have been to Jean-Georges Shanghai several times, but this time the dining experience was truly satisfactory. Would it have something to do with the fact that Jean-Georges was actually mending the kitchen personally? Something for the masterchef to contemplate about; after all there are only but two restaurants in the world that carries the Jean-Georges name. Jean-Georges said he is completely enamored by the design and the view of the restaurant. Indeed, dining at Jean-Georges Shanghai in the evening brings an experience so luxurious that is almost dreamlike.
In a post meal interview, Jean-Georges described himself: his soul is from France , his head is from New York , but he gave his heart to Asia . Taking these words as cues with careful observations of the masterchef himself, one can surely come to see what Jean-Georges meant.
The culinary empire of Jean-Georges started with Jo Jo, Vong and Jean-Georges, all based on Contemporary French Cooking. Jo Jo and Jean-Georges veer towards more modern French cuisine, and Vong is more French-Thai fusion. Later, Jean-Georges opened Vong Thai Kitchen in New York with a menu of Thai cuisine prepared by the French cooking method. It was rather audacious for a Frenchman to open a Thai restaurant. Yet Jean-Georges surprised the luxury dining industry in New York again by opening a modern Chinese restaurant called “66.” His cross cultural approach to cooking proves that the world of culinary art is not confined by national borders. A French man, Jean-Georges once announced publicly that his favorite food is Thai, followed by Chinese, and last French.
Jean-Georges said that he sees his restaurants as his “journey of life.” He is a man who aims to bridge the differences among cultures. He thinks the East and the West, like Ying and Yang, are capable of being in unison.
Shanghai has always been the city where the East meets the West. Once again, it is here that the culinary traditions of the Eastern and the Western would come together in perfect harmony, as reminisced d by our great feast at Jean-Georges Shanghai!
• leading 照（不需圖說）
• Lounge 區內，音樂流瀉，一種摩登閒散的心情油然而生
Easy attitude created by relaxing music floating through the lounge area
• 法式煎鵝肝配酸櫻桃、糖心開心果
Foie Gras Brule, Dried Sour Cherries, Candied Pistachio
• 香烤乳鴿配燴洋蔥、玉米餅和肥鵝肝
Broiled Squab, Onion Compote, Sunteed Foie Gras, Corn Pancake
• 深海扇貝配刺山柑沙司、焦糖金色花菜
Sea Scallops with Caper-Raisin Emulsion, Caramelized Cauliflower
• 夏龍比目魚配蕃茄小節瓜
Turbot, Chateau Chalon Sauce, Tomato and Zucchini
• 蒜蓉香草湯配香煎牛蛙腿
Young Garlic Soup with Thyme, Sauteed Frog Legs
8. 檸檬草龍蝦配胡蘿蔔汁和小豌豆苗
Lobster Tartine, Lemongrass, Fenugreek Broth, Pea Shoots
9. 雞蛋魚子醬
Egg Caviar
10. 四式甜點裡的「招牌熱巧克力蛋糕」，如火山熔岩般讓人難忘。
The speciality volcano-like chocolate cake, makes an unforgettable perfect ending,
11. 上海 Jean-Georges 餐廳的裝潢有強烈的國際都會感，讓人彷彿置身在紐約、巴黎、米蘭最時髦的餐館之內
Jean-Georges Shanghai Restaurant is just as trendy as those hot spots in New York , Paris , or Milan .
12. Jean-Georges 正與副廚研究當晚菜單的安排
Jean-Georges discussing with his sous-chef the menu for supper
13. 試餐會的貴賓，由左到右，分別是：孫哲、顧?、季新麟、陳懇、韓良露、肖關鴻、陳保平、陳丹燕以及費國禛
Guests （ from left to right ）： Zhe SUN, Ming KU, Tom CHI, Kevin CHEN, Lucille HAN, Kwen-Hong HSIAO, Pao-Ping CHEN and his wife, and Kuo-Chung FEI
