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美食，可精緻繁複如米其林三星的作品；也可以簡約篤實如一塊完熟美味的乳酪。後者於西方飲食文明中佔有淵遠且及重要的地位。在歷史的長流裡，人們發展出千百款的乳酪。其中，何者最為讓人食來迭有驚奇，時時流轉萬種風情呢？
多年前，我生平首次品嚐一種名喚 Comte( 康醍 ) 的高山乳酪，那時只覺吃來順口，脂滑芳甘。旅居法國東部的三年裡，我將 Comte 從春天嚼到夏日，自秋分品到冬至，竟也不曾稍覺膩厭。當時，只大而化之地認為節氣使得人體的感官需隨之應對，故嚐來各具特色。及今，才知這款第一個列入法國 ACO 認證的酪品真是與時俱進，順遂時節應對出多樣香氣、口感的佳品。
典型優質的 Comte ，切面細滑脂綿，淡乳暈黃，幽幽的青草野花香襯在濃 醇乳香裡，香氛的主調是乾核果如榛果、烤杏仁薄切或核桃味。有些還帶特殊的香料味，或甘或辛，如：甘草、陳橘皮、茴香。陳放久一些，還可轉變出乾稻草、蕈菇風味。口感必須脂滑帶韌不柴，嚼來甘順生香，帶點砂質感為佳。
其實，與其它製法的乳酪相比，質地較硬實的 Comte 會比軟滑的白酪如 Camembert ( 康蒙貝爾 ) ，口味刺激的綠霉酪如 Roquefort ( 霍克芙 ) 來的易於被華人所接受，是初試者同時也是老饕的心頭好。因其外層覆硬皮，易於保存，所以也方便攜帶而不走味，更是一個優點。此外，因 Comte 需經成熟地窖的培養，累月經年更是發展出勝於其它酪品的多樣風貌。
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置酪的木架林立高聳如巨林，隨著乾酪往上層疊，這恍若哥德建築神髓的高昇，真有種安定心神的崇敬感
In the vast main hall, towering stacks of wood shelves on which countless wheels of Comte cheese await maturity resemble a forest of majestic Gothic spires, inspiring a sense of solemn reverence in the beholders. |
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世代古法 康醍傳家
Comte 產自法國東部近瑞士的 Franche-Comte 省份，其中伏有最高約一千五百公尺的侏羅山脈，上緣松柏長青，其間緩溪漫衍，好一幅人間天堂景色。然，這裡卻也是法國最嚴寒之地，冬季霜白壓頂，地凍天寒，一片寂寥，但農事依舊是要進行的， Comte 仍然是要製作的。還好，這東一聚，西一落的山野村落裡，有一群性格堅毅的子民，傳承世代古法，虔心產製十個世紀以來的美酪。
暮秋了，我們雞鳴即起，從法國東北的史特拉斯堡一路南下駛到侏羅山區。四個小時的車程，窗外從墨黑轉露肚白，繼而東方釋放迷離鎏金。天一放亮，我們來到 Bouverans 小村參訪製酪廠 Fromagerie de Bouverans 。廠裡只有兩人一組的製酪師，主要程序由 Mr. Remy Debois 負責，另一位是他的妹妹，擔任助手。
Debois 解釋在 AOC 的法規下，單一製酪廠只能取方圓 12.5 公里內的鮮 牛乳來製作 Comte 。一來可保鮮度，再來，如此使得各地塊出產的生乳不會含混在一起，製作出的乳酪便可在大產區的括名下，仍有多樣變貌。熟悉布根地產酒區的讀者，定能神會精細劃分地塊的精義。更甚之，葡萄酒講究品種，製 Comte 的乳牛也是。這裡，唯有當地特有的 Montbeliarde 種牛可有資格被取乳製酪。也因此法規，此地兩人規模的小製酪廠為數眾多，四散在山嶺荒凹間。
這裡，乳農通常日取二乳，即晚間七時和隔日凌晨五時，一年徹尾，無一天間斷。也就是說，牛乳是有季節性變化的，因牛群每季吃食不同，產生的乳汁也風味各異，因此產生口味多樣的 Comte 。 Debois 先生將昨夜冷藏的鮮乳和今晨鮮取混合至大銅鍋槽裡，展開是日製酪程序。
Debois 先將銅鍋裡的鮮奶加熱至攝氏 32 度，然後摻入 Presure( 取自小牛皺胃裡的凝乳素 ) 和 Levain( 乳汁酵素 ) 。前者有助牛乳凝結，後者則可促進日後乳酪的日漸熟成，增益風味。
此時，鍋內自動化的柵欄式切刀啟動， 360 度將凝乳素攪勻。幾分鐘後，牛奶開始凝結似嫩豆腐。自此起算 30 分鐘內，鍋中乳汁溫度需由 32 度加熱升溫至 56 度，而切刀轉速逐漸拉快，將凝乳切成細微顆粒；溫度漸昇，凝乳被割的愈細密。這時，製酪師需隨時檢視凝乳顆粒的大小是否合當。同時，鍋中物逐漸被離析為凝乳顆粒和液體的乳清。
Debois 在手中拈揉過，覺得顆粒大小及彈性恰當之後，便可休止。這個步驟攸關之後酪品的口感結構，若切割時，凝乳尚且軟糜，卻忙躁求快，急轉快斬，則顆粒粗鬆，到時候便無法製出口感密實，質地綿滑的酪品。
確認妥當後，製酪師便將顆粒與乳清一起抽到一圓管作固體和液體的分離。一方面，固態顆粒被壓入一扁圓筒狀模型內，並外置入一塑膠牌，載明製造日期與製造者；另一頭，被分離出的液態乳清則蒐集起來，進入工業乳品的再利用。
被模型固定住的圓形酪塊仍需加壓靜置七小時，待液體完全自其中釋出。之後，這塊重約 40 公斤的白胖 Comte 新生兒於焉誕生。接下來的三星期，這些新生的乳酪要待在製酪師的地下成熟窖裡作初步的熟成：星期一及星期四作翻面陰乾，星期二及五則作表皮拭鹽的動作。三星期後， Comte 表皮成為一硬殼，是天然的保護膜及防腐劑，也使得 Comte 日後可在正式的乳酪成熟窖裡緩慢醇化，演繹當地 Terroir ( 風土 ) 的神妙美韻。 |
康醍聖母堂 美酪禮讚
大半月過去， Debois 家的 Comte 就移駕到了當地負盛名的 Fort Saint Antoine ( 聖安東堡成熟窖 ) 裡繼續修身習性，靜待來日美味天成。 Fort Saint Antoine 其實是舊日的軍事防禦基地，就埋藏在標高一千多公尺的山頂洞裡，裡頭廣大恢弘，在其中穿堂繞室也一時不可看盡，有 Cathedrale du Comte ( 康醍聖母堂 ) 之美譽。
在乳酪熟成主任 Mr. Hubert Borel 的導引下，我們來到壯觀的大堂裡，置酪的木架林立高聳如巨林，隨著乾酪往上層疊，這恍若哥德建築神髓的高昇，真有種安定心神的崇敬感。不過，相對於教堂裡燭油垂淚的蠟香，這裡卻有種令外來客不舒服的輕微刺鼻怪味。 Borel 解釋說這些成熟中的乳酪，因著窖中空氣及其自體內酵素的作用，在醇熟過程裡仍會產生類同發酵的轉變，這說穿了就是酵素消化蛋白質所釋出的二氧化碳，因含氨，故嗅來有阿摩尼亞的尿騷味。不過，入鮑魚之肆既久，也就安然。
置放 Comte 的橫板是當地特產的 Epicea( 雲衫 ) ，易於吸收濕氣且不沾黏乳酪，有助熟成。這裡，翻面及拭鹽的動作仍必須定時而為。由於當地也產山裡的礦物鹽，所以除了法國南部的海鹽外，礦物鹽也是增添風味的特調。
Fort Saint Antoine 裡的熟成窖分門別類，大間小室的溫濕度各有些微差異，而對不同的乳酪提供適合的環境以增養風味，是熟成師傅的主要任務。首先，熟成師必須了解這些不同來自何處：哪塊地的牛乳？產自哪個季節？製酪者是誰？這塊 Comte 的熟成狀況進展如何？還需要多久時間、怎樣的溼度、溫度來作下一階段的醇化？這變因複雜萬端，熟成師傅必須經過多年的實際歷練才得以掌握各塊 Comte 的生命進程。
對 Borel 來說， Fort Saint Antoine 更像一間藏經閣。經典只有一部，康醍。但其中詮釋演化爭奇鬥艷，各擅勝場，自領風騷。為了隨時掌握每部「酪書」的內涵和展演，熟成師需具備良好的品試技巧。如同葡萄酒的評試，步驟順序也是「觀色」、「嗅聞」、「品嚐」和餘韻的講究。但，乾酪熟成師更特殊的一項技能是「聽音」。
聽音辨位 高下立判
首先，師傅將 40 公斤重的圓盤 Comte 自架上拖放腿上，取一 T 字型修長細鏟稱作 Sonde ，以一頭的 T 形塑膠錘快速以順時鐘方向自中心往外緣敲槌。純熟的師傅以這套「聽音辨位」的技能即可立斷優劣，聽辨出這塊 Comte 是否有瑕疵。 敲擊下，如 Comte 發出空洞沉悶的迴響，那麼熟成師便要注意裡頭是否有問題。
某些成熟窖的溫度較高，或因這塊酪品本身特質使然，當乳酪醇化發酵時，二氧化碳釋出量較多，便常會在酪內產生圓眼般的坑洞，這只是外觀的小缺失，不影響口感。但如果是裂成長條紋狀隧道，則有細菌感染的可能。
這時便要作「侵入式」的檢驗了。將 Sonde 另一頭的細鏟斜插入餡，熟成師取出一細條狀的酪品樣本，據此品試。其實，這就如同在酒窖裡頭的「桶邊試酒」，釀酒師必須隨時探嚐以回應該桶酒的需求，做不同釀酒上的處置。先「觀色」：師傅均著白袍，只要將樣本與白袍比對即可探知一二。色澤較深者，通常是「夏日康醍」，因牧牛吃草，其中多含胡蘿蔔素所致。相對的，牛兒冬天食用乾草，產乳色澤素淺，「冬季康醍」也因之呈現象牙白。夏日酪算是 Comte 的旬味，較受歡迎，價格略高。
「嗅聞」：此地山區據研究有 132 種花草植物，其中 23 種是辛香屬，如 Cerfeuil des Pres ( 香葉芹 ) 、 Cumin des Pres ( 山茴香葉 ) 。又因每戶牛群放牧地不同，吃到的花草也有些微差異，所以香氣表徵自有別異。當然此判準，也應該可供您辨別這是冬或夏季的產物。
「品嚐」：入口之前，可以將樣本曲折查看其彈性如何，年紀輕的康醍較濡潤有彈性。甚至，將樣品以指力搓拈檢視質地，老傢伙顆粒突顯，有砂質感。入口，以舌相逼，將 Comte 遍塗口腔上壁，且曲舌佈施舌蕊，細心體會其質地、結構和彈性。有些具有清新草味、花香，它者嚐來有桃梨、核果、煙薰、動物羶氣、土味、辛香，甚而有輕微刺辣感 … 因為這是老酪？還是因這是那塊絨綠砂質地叢生的辛口草作祟？
這許多腦海裡的自我詰問，使得乾酪達人在 Blind Tasting ( 盲試 ) 的狀況下，有可能猜出這是哪塊地的乳；哪個產季；哪個製酪師的作品；甚至哪個熟成窖的培養。
當然，猜不猜得到，並不那麼緊要。要點是藉每日的品嚐鍛鍊，熟成師須知悉每塊乳酪的差異、個性和預知將來的轉變，好替來客找到口味相符的 Comte 。就似餐廳裡的 Sommelier ( 侍酒師 ) ，熟成師也肩負銷售的責任。然而，不清楚貴客的脾胃嗜好，無法即時挑出客人所需，銷售是沒法做好的。舉例來說，巴黎的消費者口感輕雅，喜歡年輕的 Comte ；而當地人便喜歡風格強烈的老味。
康醍在窖熟過後，銷售之前，需經由一專業評委會對每塊乾酪作評鑑。評量以二十分為總分，如評分落在 15 到 20 分之間，是屬於最高評等的 Comte Extra ，則這塊康醍便有資格在其腰側貼上綠色的鈴鐺標籤；假若分數落在 12 到 15 之間， 則屬褐色標籤的範圍，通常是口感佳，但乳酪內裡有輕微裂痕的情況。評分落點在 12 分以下則無法冠上 Comte 的名稱對外銷售，經常就是便宜賣掉當做 Fondue du Fromage ( 乳酪火鍋 ) 的原料。
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與酒的美味聯姻
從地窖回到餐桌，對嗜酒之人， Comte 與酒如何搭檔呢？在此，請暫時放棄您乳酪只搭紅葡萄酒的老觀念。其實，有絕大多數的美酪與白葡萄酒聯搭的更絕妙，只消多嘗試即可發掘個中道理。
這裡，鎖定當地的「地酒」便可迎刃而解搭配的問題。侏儸地區產的 Vin Jaune ( 黃酒，以 Chateau-Chalon 產區質素最美 ) 具有杏桃、乾果、奶油、濃褐焦糖和野菇的多重複音，足以與 Comte 和諧奏演。然而，因此黃酒濃醇美釅卻不帶絲毫甜韻，在亞洲國家還不是很受歡迎。故商舖裡，尚不易尋得。不過，也同樣是 Jura( 侏儸區 ) 或是 Burgundy( 布根地 ) 產製的 Chardonnay 品種良質白酒，如 Meursault 、 Montrachet 、老 Chablis ，或甚至醇美的老香檳亦或是 Hermitage 產區白酒也都可曼妙聯姻。 |
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牧人 Tasmanien 跨步蹲下，將唇揪歛成一圓，作勢要與牛子牛孫們玩親親。他將每頭牛都取了小名： DouxDoux ( 嘟嘟 ) 、 Soyeux ( 阿絲 ) 、 Mon ( 阿蒙 )…Montbeliarde 種牛是製 Comte 的唯一牛乳來源
Mr. Tasmanien, supplier of raw milk, he kneeled down to kiss and cuddle with the calves, each of whom he has fondly nicknamed : DouxDoux, Soyeux, Mon…the Montbeliarde cows is the only source for producing Comte.
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如真要品飲紅酒，建議以單寧不過重、年紀輕、果香奔放、以 Merlot ( 梅露 ) 品種為主的紅酒試試，如： Saint-Emilion 、 Pomerol 或其它國家的同品種酒等等。
法國許多三星餐廳甚至不只提供一種 Comte 。當您要份 Comte 品嚐時，侍者會貼心地問您，希望品嚐一年、兩年或三年老的 Comte 。如您要來個小小的 Tasting ，三款全要了，那麼以成熟度排序作品嚐是一定要注意的，與品酒的道理類同。既然，您作了 Vertical Tasting ( 垂直品試 ) ，那何妨哪天也安排個 Horizontal Tasting ( 水平品試：同一年份，不同製酪廠或成熟窖出品 ) 呢？尤其，現在大氣環境變化劇烈，年年氣候殊異，長成的牧草也不完全雷同，誰知哪天 Comte 不會發展出像葡萄酒一樣的年份哲學呢？ |
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Comte 之母 Montbeliarde 種牛
印度精神導師奧修說：「一切在種子時，就已經決定了！」
傍晚，隨著車子前行，蔥蘢山坡樹影、屋舍牛羊、無邊如鏡的法瑞邊界湖一一倒退，離康醍聖母堂二十分鐘車程，我們來到乳農 Jean-Francois Tasmanien 的大房子前。我們要探源，看看 Comte 的最先來處。
這幢房舍碩大，但不氣派，大人字形的屋頂罩護著園主的所有，人畜農機穀物乾草果蔬，一個莊稼漢的心血就在裡頭了。Tasmanien 帶我們穿梭在雨後濕溽的青青草原上，廣大綠野點綴一群群的 Montbeliarde 種牛：「此牛，骨架大，多肉多奶，生出含高蛋白的 |
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敲擊下，如 Comte 發出空洞沉悶的迴響，那麼熟成師便要注意裡頭是否有問題
By listening to the sounds, a master affineur is able to judge immediately the grade and quality of the cheese. Dull, hollow echoes suggest that the cheese requires attention.
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優質乳，是製 Comte 的唯一牛乳來源。它們天生好奇心重，個性卻溫和得很！」。說著，牧人跨步蹲下，將唇揪歛成一圓，作勢要與牛子牛孫們玩親親。牧人將每頭牛都取了小名： DouxDoux ( 嘟嘟 ) 、 Soyeux ( 阿絲 ) 、 Mon ( 阿蒙 )… 。
在 AOC 的法規下，每頭 Montbeliarde 可以享有至低一公頃的自由放牧空間。直到十月底，他們都會在綠地上閒步嚼草，冬天則吃乾草及榖類，飼料餵養是被禁止的。
突然淋來一陣要人直打哆嗦的晚秋雨水，將我們趕離牧放區。行著走著來到屋前，雨又停了， Tasmanien 轉回頭，聳肩揪嘴，一副無可奈它何的模樣。我則是一邊搓揉著凍僵的手，想著，冬天既然來了，春天也就不遠了吧！
明年初春雪融後，嘟嘟、阿絲、阿蒙又會回到牧地，在晨陽初醒時，搶食第一株帶露的青嫩芽心。 ( 完 )
【註】 AOC (Appellation d'Origine Controlee)：法國的法定產區管制規定，最先只有葡萄酒列為管制，嚴格限制可使用的葡萄品種，葡萄產區來源，採收釀製方法等等。後來也將部分質優的傳統乳酪列為AOC的規範裡，管控品質。Comte是在1952年獲得AOC認證的，也是法國第一例。
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Gourmet food may come as an elaborate culinary delight served in a Michelin 3-star restaurant. However, true delicacy is also found in an unembellished, perfectly aged piece of cheese. For thousands of years, cheese has played an important role in the food history of western civilizations. Amidst its thousand varieties, which cheese has the most captivating qualities that best titillate the taste buds of an epicure? |
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Debois 先生在手中拈揉過，覺得顆粒大小及彈性恰當之後，便可休止。這個步驟攸關之後酪品的口感結構 |
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The paddles stop mixing only after Mr. Debois tested in his own hands and approved of the size and elasticity of the curds. The fromager's accuracy at this stage of the process is crucial to the perfect texture and unctuousness of the cheese. |
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It was a long time ago when I tasted Comte – an unctuous, smooth and aromatic French mountain cheese – for the first time. I was living and traveling in the eastern region of France at the time. For three years, I thoroughly enjoyed Comte as part of my simple diet, mistakenly believing that its many flavors were merely a result of my own sensory adjustments to the region's dramatic seasonal climate. It was not until recently that I realized that Comte, the first cheese chosen by the AOC for official certification, does in fact embody a seasonally evolving taste.
Classic premium Comte has a silky, smooth texture and a slightly yellowy milk tint. It exudes a blend of subtle aromas – those of roasted nuts like hazelnut, almond and walnut, sometimes infused with the natural fruity or spicy flavors of licorice, orange rind or aniseed. Aged Comte also has a trace of dry hays or wild fungi. In the mouth, fine Comte tastes moist and supple, best if slightly grainy, but never brittle.
Firmer than the soft-ripened Camembert and less piquant than the sharp blue Roquefort, Comte is recognized by both connoisseur and amateur cheese gourmands as one of the most agreeable French cheese selection to a Chinese palate. Its hard exterior rind preserves freshness and allows easy packing for travel. Its requisite long affinage in cool cellars nurtures a far greater variety of tastes than most other types of cheese. |
Made in Traditional Fromagerie
Comte is produced in the Franche-Comte region of eastern France , where lush rolling valleys of the Jura Mountains , peaking at 1,500 meters, and meandering mountain creeks are part of the region's unique landscape. Seasons here are markedly distinct. Severe winters transform picturesque green plateaus of the summer into barren, snowcapped hinterland. However, no bad weather can deter the region's dedicated dairy farmers from producing, according to tradition, a cheese that is their heritage for more than ten centuries.
It was late autumn when we embarked on a journey by car to Bouverans, a small village in the Jura Mountains , from Strasbourg . The four-hour drive began before the crack of dawn. We arrived in the early morning at the Fromagerie de Bouverans, one of the many small dairy factories (“ fromageries” ) in the region. Mr. Remy Debois is the maitre fromager , assisted by his sister – the only other staff at the facility.
Mr. Debois explained that, in order to preserve freshness and the distinct flavors of Comte produced in each locality, the AOC regulated that each fromagerie may process only raw milk collected from a vicinity of 12.5 square kilometers. Such localization by georegions is not unfamiliar to a wine connoisseur. As each wine credits its taste to a specific type of grape grown in a specific locale, Comte credits its taste to the milk produced only by the Monbeliarde cows raised in a designated georegion. Due to the strict edaphic criteria set by the AOC, traditional 2-operator fromageries remain in large number and scatter throughout the valleys.
Every day of the year, Mr. Debois collects raw cow milk at 5am and 7pm . The taste of Comte varies according to the seasons, as cow herds feed on different vegetations that affect the natural flavors of their milk. The day's cheese-making process begins with the mixture of fresh milk collected in the morning with that from the night before in a huge kettle. The kettle is heated to 32oC before “rennet” (which comes from the lining of the calf's fourth stomach; presure in French) and “whey” (the leftover watery part of milk that separates from the curd; levain in French) are added to the mix. The former curdles the contents, while the latter affects the process of maturation.
Then, the automated paddles inside the kettle are turned on to move vertically while making a gradual 360o rotation to mix the milk evenly. After a few minutes, curds of raw milk begin to appear. At this time, kettle temperature is raised from 32oC to 56oC in exactly 30 minutes. The fromager must carefully examine the size of the resulting milk curds that gradually separate from the remaining liquids in the kettle.
The paddles stop mixing only after Mr. Debois tested in his own hands and approved of the size and elasticity of the curds. The fromager 's accuracy at this stage of the process is crucial to the perfect texture and unctuousness of the cheese. If the paddles rotate or drop into the mixture too fast, or if the mixing process is halted too soon, the resulting curds become rough and flaky, incapable of turning into blocks of fine, firm Comte.
Once the mixing stops, all contents in the kettle are suctioned into a round tube that separates the curds from the remaining milk liquids. The curds are packed into large wheel-shaped moldings, and labels are attached to indicate the date of manufacture and the name of the maker. The liquids strained from the tube are collected for use in other industrial dairy products.
It takes 7 hours of pressure packing for the wheels to mold and be strained of all excess liquids. Thereafter – voila – fresh wheels of Comte, weighing in at 40 kg, are born. During the next three weeks, new wheels must remain in the underground cellar of the fromager for preliminary maturation: their sides are flipped every Monday and Thursday for proper drying; their surfaces are rubbed with salt every Tuesday and Friday. After three weeks, the exterior of the wheel hardens to form a rind for natural preservation and protection, allowing the local flavors (“ terroir” ) of the cheese to come through during its long affinage (a maturing process that ripens the cheese in such way as to express all the savory potential of the cheese) in the cellar.
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La Cathedrale of Comte
More than a fortnight has past, and the new wheels of Comte are ready for transport from Mr. Debois' cellar to the famous Fort Saint Antoine nearby for further maturation. Fort Saint Antoine, a former military base, is a cavern hidden deep in the Jura Mountains at more than 1,000 meters above sea level. The fort's immense interior has earned its nickname: La Cathedrale du Comte .
Mr. Hubert Borel, the maturation supervisor at Fort Saint Antoine, gave us a guided tour. In the vast main hall, towering stacks of wood shelves on which countless wheels of Comte cheese await maturity resemble a forest of majestic Gothic spires, inspiring a sense of solemn reverence in the beholders. However, where sweet scents of wax candles float in the air of a cathedral church, an unusual, piquant odor fills the air of Fort Saint Antoine. According to Mr. Borel, the maturity process of the cheese is to blame. When yeasts digest proteins in the process of fermentation, carbon dioxide and ammonia are released into the air, hence the urinous scent. Luckily, it did not take long for the mind to get used to the odor, and direct the nose to ignore it.
The wooden shelf planks are made of epicea, a local wood that absorbs moisture and provides a perfect nonstick surface for the maturing wheels of Comte. Here, wheels must continue being flipped and rubbed with salt periodically. The application of both mineral salt from the local mountains and sea salt from southern France adds a unique flavor.
Fort Saint Antoine offers different maturation wards, the temperature and humidity of each may vary slightly. The primary responsibility of the affineur (who directs the maturing process) is to determine which ward provides the optimal maturing environment for a specific type of Comte. First, the affineur must know the background of each Comte: the origins of the raw milk from which it was made, the season in which it was made, the fromager who made it, the progress of its fermentation, the time needed to mature it, the right temperature and humidity for each stage of the process. The complexities involved require one to endure years of practice and experience before qualifying as a seasoned Comte affineur .
To Mr. Borel, Fort Saint Antoine is a library that collects only one classic title: the Comte. Each collection offers a different interpretation of the title and competes against others to be the best. The affineur , as librarian, must be equipped with the highest taste-testing skills to afford each interpretation an opportunity to present itself in the best light. Similar to wine tasting, Comte tasting consists of visual observation, sniffing and savoring each instance to discern its level of refinement and sophistication. In addition, a qualified affineur must be able to listen . |
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Listening to the Cheese
First, the affineur takes down a 40 kg wheel from the shelf and lays it across his lap. In his hand is a slender gouge (known as sonde ). He then uses the T-shaped end of the sonde to quickly but lightly tap the wheel, in a clockwise direction from the center outward. By listening to the sounds, a master affineur is able to judge immediately the grade and quality of the cheese. Dull, hollow echoes suggest that the cheese requires attention. |
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這些新生的乳酪要待在製酪師的地下成熟窖裡作初步的熟成：星期一及星期四作翻面陰乾，星期二級星期五座表皮拭鹽的動作
New Comte must remain in the underground cellar of the fromager for preliminary maturation:their sides are flipped every Monday and Thursday for proper drying;their surfaces are rubbed with salt every Tuesday and Friday.
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During fermentation, if higher volume of carbon dioxide is released – perhaps due to the higher temperature of the maturation ward, or the innate qualities of the cheese itself – tiny, drop-size holes will appear in the cheese. While the effect of these holes is purely aesthetic, long cracks or tunnels in the cheese may indicate bacterial contamination.
When it is time for an “invasive” testing, the affineur inserts the other end of the sonde into the cheese at an angle, and picks out a smear for sample. |
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典型優質的 Comte ，切面細滑脂綿，淡乳暈黃，香氛的主調是乾核果如榛果、烤杏仁薄切或核桃味。最適宜與法國東部的 Vin Jaune( 黃酒 ) 作搭配 (Photo ： CIGC)
Classic premium Comte has a silky, smooth texture and a slightly yellowy milk tint. It exudes a blend of subtle aromas – those of roasted nuts like hazelnut, almond and walnut. Comte is best to go with French Vin Jaune for food-wine marriage. |
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The concept here is similar to barrel tasting, as regular examinations allow a winemaker to respond to the progress inside each barrel with necessary adjustments.
This examination involves several steps :
“Coloration”: The cheese master begins by observing the sample's color. His white coat can serve as a reference for shade comparison. Usually, Comte made in the summer, when cows graze on grass that contains a high level of carotene, produces yellowy samples. In contrast, Comte made in the winter produces ivory samples, as cows feed mostly on hays. Because Comte made in the summer tastes stronger, it tends to be more popular in demand and commands a higher price.
“Sniffing”: According to botanical studies, 132 species of flora flourish in this mountain region, among which 23 species are spicy herbs, including those in the chervil family and the wild cumin family. Because each cow herd is confined to a specific georegion for grazing, their diet varies slightly, hence the different aromas in their milk. An expert of Comte is able to identify whether a wheel cheese was produced in summer or winter solely by its scent.
“Tasting”: Before tasting, one can gently squeeze the sample to test its elasticity. Comte from a young wheel tends to be moist and bouncy, while that from an old wheel tends to be grainy if rubbed between the fingers. Upon tasting, try smearing the sample against the roof of the mouth, and use the tongue to check its texture and composition. Some wheels carry the fragrance of fresh grass or wild flowers; others may exude the sweet scent of peaches, pears, roasted nuts, or even a hint of the musk or earthened flavor. When a sample gives a spicy aroma, it makes one wonder whether it came from an aged wheel, or such flavor is simply a remnant of the herbs that fed the milking cow.
In a blind tasting, a master of Comte is able to judge accurately the georegion of the wheel's origin, the time of year it was made, the fromager who made it, and even the cellar in which it matured.
However, the point of blind tasting is not to make an accurate technical identification, but to sharpen one's senses so as to allow maximum enjoyment of the cheese. A cheese master must understand the differences between each wheel, in order to assist his customers in choosing one that is most suitable to the palate. Just as a sommelier in a restaurant, an affineur of Comte is also a cellar's chief salesperson. Without his expert understanding, a Comte cellar is unable to effectively market its wide variety of wheels. For example, Parisians tend to prefer young wheels that taste light in the mouth; but locals seem to favor the distinct tastes found only in aged wheels.
Upon reaching maturity, each wheel of Comte is officially certified by the AOC before it can be sold. The certification is based on a scale of 20 (20 being the highest). A wheel that is rated between 15 and 20 is classified as Comte Extra, and is awarded a highly coveted green bell label. Between 12 and 15, a wheel may have superior texture but also slight cracks. It is awarded a brown label. A wheel rated below 12 may not be sold as Comte. Instead, it is often marketed for use in cheese fondue.
Marriage of Fine Cheese and Wine
From the cellar to the dining table, how would a gourmet pair Comte with wine? Contrary to popular beliefs that cheese goes well only with red wine, many fine cheese make superb companions to a glass of white.
The best way to match a cheese with the right wine is to research the local wines produced in the same region. A Jura-region yellow wine ( Vin Jaune ), especially that produced in Chateau-Chalon, makes a perfect compliment to Comte with its multi-layered flavors of apricots, nuts, cream, dark brown sugar and wild fungi. However, as a mature dry wine, Vin Jaune has not enjoyed the popularity it deserves in Asia , where it is often difficult to find. As an alternative, a fine Chardonnay from the Jura or Burgundy region (such as Meusault or Montrachet), an old Chablis, an aged Champagne or even a white from Hermitage, all makes a fine pair with Comte.
A good choice of red wine that compliments Comte would be one that is not too heavy, not too aged, but abundantly fruity and made of Merlot grapes, such as Saint-Emilion, Pomerol, or similar wines produced in other countries.
Comte is offered in many 3-star French restaurants in more than one variety. The choices often include those with an affinage period of one, two or three years. In a tasting, you may want to try all three. However, as in wine tasting, the order in which you sample is very important to your overall experience. After a vertical tasting (by years to maturity), why not also try a horizontal tasting (same year of maturity, but produced in different fromageries or matured in different cellars). As climatic changes become more dramatic in recent years, one would expect greater variation in seasonal vegetations that affect the flavors of raw milk. After all, who is to say that one day, the concept of vintage will not become just as important to the certification of Comte as it is to wine?
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The Source of Comte: Montbeliarde Cows
The famous spiritual leader, Osho, once said that, prior to germination, fate is already determined.
We left Fort Saint Antoine in the early evening, driving past the rolling shadows of mountainous hilltops, watching reflections of little cottages and grazing animals in the still water of lakes that mark the French-Swiss border. Within 20 minutes, we arrived at the farm of Mr. Jean-Francois Tasmanien, a supplier of raw milk that is used to produce Comte.
The farmhouse is a large, but not particularly elegant, structure that houses under one roof all of its owner's prized possessions: livestock, harvested crops and machineries.
Mr. Tasmanien led us to the farm hills – lush green grass fields, still wet from the afternoon rain, dotted with herds of Montbeliarde cows grazing afar. “Monbeliarde cows are heavy with big bones and abundant milk. As the only source for producing Comte, these animals are curious creatures with gentle souls,” said Mr. Tasmanien, as he kneeled down to kiss and cuddle with the calves, each of whom he has fondly nicknamed: DouxDoux, Soyeux, Mon….
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AOC regulations require that each Montbeliarde cow be allowed at least 1 hectare of space to freely roam and graze. The herds feed leisurely on fresh grass until the end of October, switching to hays in the winter months. Artificial feeds are strictly prohibited.
A sudden downpour of freezing autumn rain chased us from the fields and back to the farmhouse. Just as we reached the door, the rain stopped. Mr. Tasmanien turned around, curled his lips and shrugged in a powerless complaint against the capricious |
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此地山區據研究有 132 種花草植物，其中 23 種是辛香屬，因每戶牛群放牧地不同，吃到的花草也有些微差異，所以產出牛奶香氣表徵自有別異 (Photo ： CIGC)
According to botanical studies, 132 species of flora flourish in this mountain region, among which 23 species are spicy herbs. Because each cow herd is confined to a specific georegion for grazing, their diet varies slightly, hence the different aromas in their milk. |
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weather. As I rubbed my frozen palms together, I thought to myself that, winter is already at our doorsteps, perhaps spring is just around the corner!
When the first warm rays of spring sun melts away the snow, DouxDoux, Soyeux and Mon will return to their grazing fields, looking for the first green sprouts still dripping in morning dew.
(Footnote) AOC (Appellation d'Origine Controlee) is the French system that controls and regulates the geography and quality of wine, with strict regulations including those on the species of grapevines used in winemaking, the regions of production, and the methods of harvest. This system is now used to regulate select traditional cheese as well. In 1952, Comte became the first French cheese that commanded AOC certification. |
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