唯一我們還心有靈犀的地方是巴里島。這之間我們到過幾次巴里島。

這故事寫起來，必是一本不精采的小說，頂多能寫成「溫馨接送情」的故事，沒有轟轟烈烈的情節，不合看愛情小說者愛辛喜辣的脾胃。幾年前，我們兩個一身反骨、不認為人一定要結婚的傢伙，竟然莫名其妙的結婚了。
這是我個人的事情。當然巴里島的美超乎我私人的記憶。
現在我要說的是人們不能不知道的巴里島。
喜歡巴里島的人，人生觀必有些不謀而合的地方。在我們心靈的迴路裡，必然有默契的演奏著某種共通的旋律。
喜愛巴里島的默契，在於一種對大自然神祕的虔誠。

正如它的萬神教，崇拜天地間與宇宙同生同死的萬物一般，對天地生成的一切神祕力量，始終抱持著不移的虔誠信仰。喜歡巴里島子民發自肺腑想要對人好的那種微笑。喜歡他們在稻田旁溝中洗澡的那種自得。
喜歡 Ubud 烏布的梯田、像青蛇一樣蜿蜒在山脈之間的阡陌以及烏魯瓦圖懸崖下金粉敷塗的夕陽海岸。
喜歡它咆哮聲溫柔又激烈的海洋。
喜歡「發呆亭」下微風靜好。
喜歡一年四季不分青紅皂白盛開的荷花與燃燒似火的九重葛，還有像鳥喙一樣靈巧的美人蕉。
喜歡無所事事的午后自茅草屋簷下滴落的成串雨珠，和像涓細流水一般緩慢而優雅的生活速度。
喜歡每一個匠心獨具的小小裝飾和他們對生活瑣碎美學的耽溺與專注。每一座雕像，每一間廁所都有各自的生命藝術。
喜歡他們把葬禮當作喜事的豁達。這是一個即使生命寫下休止符也需歡喜相送的美麗之島。一場繽紛的盛宴。了解它，才能品嚐到它的真實滋味。

然而，就像許多被觀光客攻佔的景點一樣，巴里島一直在變。

就像許多歐洲人擔心威尼斯有一天會被海水吞噬一樣，我總是擔心著，一直存在於巴里島的唯美神祕氣氛，會被觀光客的腳步淹沒，有一天當我再次踏上這一塊奉獻給眾神的土地（這是 Bali 的原義）時，它已經變成一個普吉島或關島之類，只剩下觀光飯店的島嶼。

我多麼擔心，有一天他們臉上樂天知命的微笑會消失，那些石子路會被柏油路所取代，梯田會變成一棟一棟山坡上的住宅。
遲早有那麼一天，在美其名為進步的殷殷期盼之下，它會變得不像原來的自己，漸漸失去天真。

很多朋友知道我常到巴里島，總會問我，住 Villa 很棒吧？到巴里島做 Spa 很服吧？

說起來複雜。其實如果去錯地方的話，一點也不舒服。

有的 Villa 非常粗糙，只是一個包給某大旅行社的大型遊客「選手村」，有的 Spa 一點也不專業，只是虛應了事。
巴里島的 Spa ，有相當高的比例令人失望。

這一次我來，是因為 Kirana Spa 。關於 Kirana ，本地來過的旅客並不多，我的朋友中，只有于美人和她先生來過。兩個人都讚譽有加，但我「拷問」他們老半天，只得到幾句形容詞：「嗯，是半露天的，很舒服，沒有背景音樂，只有風和流水的聲音，手法很柔軟，然後我就……睡著了。從來沒有睡過那樣舒服的覺。不過那個覺睡得很貴。」
真是有趣的形容，不過，在按摩時累到睡著了，是我常做的事情，有什麼特別的呢？

「很奇怪的睡眠，很放鬆的睡眠，我夢見我還在唸小學，在小學校園裡到處穿梭……」那意味著回到某種天真無邪的境況吧。「總而言之，那種手法不像是在按摩，而是在催眠，引領我到很深很深的底層……」
她的形容越來越「村上春樹」。
那一定是值得體驗的 Spa 了。

一向是個勇於嘗試新經驗的人。老實說，之前我在巴里島試過很多種 Spa 和按摩。包括躺在 Kuta 沙灘上，給一些陌生的手在背後搓來捏去。也有一次不愉快的經驗：在一個標榜服務日本人的 Spa 裡，一位女郎一邊幫我按摩一邊不斷的擤鼻涕。還算愉快的是目前風行東南亞的 Mandela Spa ，目前在幾個巴里島的五星級飯店裡都有這個集團的服務，女郎們就像雙鋼琴一樣，以四隻手服務一個人，用巴里島當地的香料如椰子纖維和辣椒等幫顧客去角質與按摩，不過，它的價格一點也不比本地高級俱樂部的 Spa 低。

車子繞過蜿蜒小徑，下車後，一走進烏布小山頭的 Kirana Spa ，立刻可以感受它想創造 Spa 休閒樂園的壯闊企圖。

它位於 Ubud 烏布最宜泛舟的阿揚河畔，幾位穿著傳統服裝的巴里島少女以羞怯而誠懇的笑容雙手合什的對我微笑，我穿過灑滿陽光的小徑，在綠意擁抱的露天中庭裡坐下來。她跪在地上（這讓我受寵若驚），要求我填寫簡單的個人健康調查表，並讀完該中心的服務宣言：
文件資料上說， Kirana 的按摩與其他的巴里島按摩不同，不是為了治療或矯正筋骨酸痛而存在，它一點也不會痛，唯一的宗旨就是希望你放鬆。
然後，一位長髮少女領我走入通幽的曲徑，經過了月桃樹、天堂鳥與九重葛遍佈的花徑，步下重重小台階，我到了事先預定的「總統級」 Spa 套房。
那是一間山崖上的半露天雅室，裡頭有設備完善的蒸氣浴、雨林浴和烤箱，三邊的露台都可以遠眺阿揚河及遠方佈滿綠蔭的山頭。只我一個人享用，雖然所有的建築材質和模式都低調、隱性而簡潔，一點也不耀武揚威，但我還是為這自己獨享的奢華露出了虛榮的微笑。

這裡的美很寧靜，寧靜到讓我想起蘇東坡「洞仙歌」裡頭幾無人間煙火味的詞：

「冰肌玉骨，自清涼無汗。水殿風來暗香滿，繡簾開，一點明月窺人，人未寢，欹枕釵橫鬢亂。起來攜素手，庭戶無聲，時見疏星渡河漢……」

此時近午。仍能體會「水殿風來暗香滿」和「庭戶無聲」的清閒氣象，如果是夜晚，這裡所刻畫的情境就應該和洞仙歌裡的感覺一樣了。誰不想在這樣的庭台樓閣裡編織綺夢呢。

此時，五小時 Spa 企劃書遞到我的手上來。

不愧是日本人企劃的 Spa ，一切都在有計劃的控管之中，一切都是白紙黑字，用一絲不茍的態度來維持休閒的品質，讓顧客「放鬆」。這個企劃書宣誓的過程如下：

藥草蒸氣浴（ 5 分鐘）──請穿著沙龍（ Sarong ）
沐浴
腳底和腿部按摩（ 60 分鐘）──請穿和式浴衣。
沐浴
放鬆身體（ 120 分鐘）──和式浴衣。
沐浴
中餐輕食（我選了雞肉三明治和無糖薑茶）

臉部按摩（ 60 分鐘）
之後自由使用按摩池、泳池和三溫暖（請著泳衣）
其實，看著這個企劃單時，我心中不無疑惑。五小時？天哪。我是個沒耐性的人，能教我在大白天躺兩小時乖乖不動被人按摩，已是我忍耐的最大限度。
五小時，我能「撐」過去嗎？

有一位 Spa 行家說，巴里島的 Spa 其實是做感覺的。此話說得很有道理。而此處精雕細琢卻不匠氣的建築，創造出一種奇妙的意境，覺得這裡的 Spa 應該是一種山水禪吧。
其實，在來巴里島之前，我度過了一長段十分忙碌的時光。我是個在工作上總想盡全力的人，雖然重視自己的休閒生活，但常在渾渾噩噩間接受了太多的挑戰，累積了許多疲憊。疲憊讓自己的心產生好多無謂的噪音，即使在四下無人時，自己和自己還在毫不停歇的對話著。
它讓我找到一種很久沒有到來的安靜。再容易急躁忙碌的人，也會在這樣的溫馨對待裡安靜下來，願意和自己的身體獨處，和風聲水聲獨處。
這應該就是我們生命中最簡單也最豪華的一種渴望，一種成全。

Kirana Spa 獨特的造景，使它與巴里島的神祕氣氛相融，精神相通。一切造景都有原汁原味的美感，而所有對顧客的虔誠對待又合乎巴里島的待客思維。
無疑的，我的人生相片裡，又留下一張印象深刻的寫意照片。在一個萬神教的神島嶼，我又享受一場繽紛的盛宴。但多事如我，也還是想再提醒，在享受這樣的待遇前，請先了解巴里島，才能品嚐到它的真實滋味。

I have always liked Bali , though certain things about it are less than perfect; it is too humid, the sea breeze too damp and the midday sun just too hot. On top of that, the island is usually full of noisy tourists, customs officials process arrivals too slowly andthere is not much to choose from in the way of quality cuisine (unless of course you have a really good appetite) or really goodwine. There are also groups of young men in the business district of Kuta who seem to deliberately accost Asian women In addition, the terrorist attack of 2003, is a constant reminder that security concerns remain even today.

Despite all of these problems, I remain deeply in love with Bali , a place that feels so comfortable it could have been my hometown in a former life.Visitors who spend their holidays living in villas, shopping or getting strange haircuts inevitably overlook the unique beauty of the place in terms of its religious atmosphere and culture.
Let me try and explain why I fell in love with Bali – but be forewarned such as task is every bit as difficult as trying to explain why one fell in love with someone.

I would put it like this: If life is a photo album full of pictures, then in mine there will be at least a few of Bali worth pondering over. With the passing of time, while all mortal concerns disappear, such images remain. Whenever I go to Bali I always start to get excited as soon as I board the plane and the moment I disembark I experience a strong sense of well-being.

The moment the sunshine lights up my face, I find myself smiling a big broad smile in response. In the warm breeze even the coldest of frozen hearts slowly melts.
I firmly believe that my own fate is somehow connected to that of the island.

I first visited Bali a decade ago, during the dullest Chinese New year of my life. I stayed in an inexpensive downtown hostel, where I met a Taiwanese man who resembled a local. Given the huge differences in both our professions and interests it is unlikely we would ever have met in Taiwan . For many years he was just a really reliable friend and to be honest the complete opposite to how I would describe my ideal lover. When I was a young I deeply respected and admired cultured individuals like the young Hu Shih or Hsu Chih-mo.

The only thing the two of us had in common was Bali and from that time on we visited the island together on several occasions.

Written down this is not a very interesting story, at best a pedestrian “Driving Miss Daisy.” There were no grand or spectacular plotlines, making it not the sort of fare suited to those who devour the romance and passion of love story novellas. Several we have insisted that marriage is pointless he suddenly decided to get married himself.
For me this was and is a personal matter, though the sheer beauty of Bali naturally transcends any personal memory.

I would now like to talk in more detail about the Bali that visitors simply have to get to know.
For everyone who likes Bali , there has to be some coincidental commonality in the way they view the world. By which I mean, that at some spiritual level our souls resonate to the same frequency.
I would say our love of Bali is based on respect for the mysteries of Mother Nature.
As with their religious reverence for all living things, the people of Bali have always had an unshakeable faith in the mysterious power of nature.
I love the way the Balinese smile, a heartfelt expression of their desire to be kind to everyone, and the relaxed unassuming way they wash themselves in ditches at the side of paddy fields.

I like the terraced fields of Ubud, the pathways between them like green snakes winding their way through the hills and the sun setting on the golden beach stretching out below the Uluwatu cliffs.
I like the roaring of the ocean, both gentle and violent.
The quiet breeze and calm at “Space Out Pavilion” .
The way lotus flowers bloom indiscriminately, bouqainvillea seem to burn like fire the cannaceae resemble birds nimbly pecking-away, all year round.

I enjoy the lazy afternoons, the torrential downpours when the rain runs from the roofs of the grass huts, and a life style that in many ways resembles the languid elegance of flowing water.

I love every single original small decoration and the ay in which the people are immersed in the aesthetics of even the smallest aspects of daily life. Each statue, even every toilet is infused with its own unique life art.

I marvel at the open way funerals are seen as times of celebration. On this amazing island, even at the end of their lives people are sent on their way with joy and happiness.

Together this is a truly rich and wonderful feast and only by understanding it fully can visitors expect to enjoy the fully array of experiences on offer.

However, as with many popular tourist destinations Bali is constantly changing.
Jut as many Europeans express concern that Venice will one day be swallowed up by the sea, I have always been worried that Bali 's unique atmosphere of aesthetics and mystery will inevitably be trampled by hordes of tourists. One day I expect to return to this land dedicated to multiple gods (the original meaning of the word “ Bali ”), to find that it has become like Phuket or Guam , an island with nothing left but its multiple tourist hotels.
I worry that one day their carefree and knowing smiles will disappear forever, that cobbled roads will be replaced by tarmac and that row after row of buildings will stand where once there were only hillside terraced fields.

That day is just a matter of time. Given the fine-sounding appeal of the word “progress” it is inevitable that Bali will gradually lose its innocence and eventually change completely.
Over a decade I have spent a lot of time on Bali . In the past, I always made sure to visit at least once or twice a year, to keep the dream alive.

To be honest my visits have become less frequent over the last two years because the island is becoming increasingly “advanced.”
Many friends know that I visit Bali as often as I can, and they always ask me” What's it like to live in a villa? What are the Spas like in Bali ?
These are difficult questions to answer, because if one goes to the wrong place the experience can be anything but pleasant.
Just as some villas are very rough, rented out as “athlete's villages” to the important customers of large travel agencies, certain Spas are extremely unprofessional, offering nothing more than a perfunctory provision of services.
A surprising number of Spas on Bali are disappointing.

I was not conscious for most of the body massage either, but I do recall feeling likening myself to a harp, experiencing the well honed technique of a master musician, playing the most beautiful of musical harmonies without sound.

In this half-awake state the 120 minutes of physical therapy passed almost unnoticed. I ate lunch happily soaking my feet in the shallow water covering the cobblestones. Looking at the stunning landscape setting I couldn't help but smile at my sandwich. I thought to myself “the richest person in the world must live like this.”

The following facial massage was very thorough, the masseuse's fingers roaming gently over each acupuncture point. Her hands moved like a fish exploring every nook and cranny of a pond.

Then it was time for a swim. Presidential level treatment came with a private pool, though even the other guests have their own private swimming space, enjoying the feeling of sheer bliss.

And just like that the five hours flew by.

That day is just a matter of time. Given the fine-sounding appeal of the word “progress” it is inevitable that Bali will gradually lose its innocence and eventually change completely.
Over a decade I have spent a lot of time on Bali . In the past, I always made sure to visit at least once or twice a year, to keep the dream alive.
To be honest my visits have become less frequent over the last two years because the island is becoming increasingly “advanced.”
Many friends know that I visit Bali as often as I can, and they always ask me” What's it like to live in a villa? What are the Spas like in Bali ?
These are difficult questions to answer, because if one goes to the wrong place the experience can be anything but pleasant.