Vintage-Luxe 富豪人生

這樣密如蛛網的劃分裡，從Burgundy由北至南極速200公里飆車呼嘯駛過，您的眼裡見不著其他，但見一個奇美的緩丘，只400多公尺高，當地仍稱之為Montagne de Corton（寇東山）。其山形秀麗飽滿，法國酒書作家Alexis Lichine在醉眼迷離，詩意興發之際，暱稱之為「發育豐美的乳房」。於我來說，這更是一個「牛奶與蜜的應允之地」，因這裡生產全Burgundy最佳白酒之一的Corton-Charlemagne（寇東．查理曼）白酒以及Corton（寇東紅酒）。這兩地塊皆是Grand Cru （頂級分級）。
大帝御賜葡萄園
據說查理曼大帝(公元742-814)原嗜飲紅酒，但因大帝飛瀑般的白鬍常因此漬紅，其后認這有損威嚴，遂勸查理曼改飲白葡萄酒，大帝因此拔除黑葡萄，改種白葡萄。此說真假仍不可考，但大帝真確地在公元775年將其所屬的三公頃大葡萄園贈與Abbey de Saulieu (索留修道院)。這三公頃御賜葡萄園據歷史學家Camille Rodier所考，即位於現今Corton-Charlemagne產區最重要的名莊Domaine Bonneau du Martray(柏諾 '杜馬特萊酒莊)裡。

約訪時間是在秋日的下午四時，不過當天中午喝多了，我和攝影師出發得晚，跚跚地在蜿蜒小村山巷裡詢問du Martray莊址，到了前進不得的死巷前，見到一著簡單毛衣布絨厚褲，身形瘦高的先生，禮貌地詢問才知此人即是頂頂大名的莊主Jean-Charles le Bault de la Moriniere。

看這長串的名諱可知莊主Jean-Charles真是貴族之後，我們遲到半小時也未怪罪，相反地一雙大手握上來，解除了我們原有的歉意。稍加寒喧，Jean-Charles即對來自文化國度的我們表示熱烈歡迎。莊主對中國、西藏文化有極大熱情，聽聞攝影師周先生足跡滿佈神州大江南北，也有意跟進，還直說願意當助手，幫忙背攝影器材，只希望能夠親臨斯土，以四個月時間，不搭波音大鵬鳥，改搭吉普車，橫跨中國西藏。後來才知，莊主夫人的先祖在兩百多年前是駐在中國的傳教士，其遺體即埋在紫禁城附近。

自查理曼大帝贈園以來，這塊地已有一千兩百多年歷史，不過Jean-Charles還是謙虛地自稱這與華夏文化的淵遠歷史相較仍像不得樣。然而，前人後人在Corton-Charlemagne這塊地的辛勤耕耘，積累著如礦脈般豐富深厚的經驗，不論是在向陽度、日照時數、雨水量、土質分析、種植、以及裁枝上，都有著相應對的知識經驗以應付上天拋與酒農的多重難題。這破題方式並無公式可套招，重在順應地利天時，將當年份的氣候雨水藉著釀酒人的巧手將酒的年份質素詮釋出來，所著重的是風土(Terroir)，即是我們上著的天，下踏的地賦予這塊葡萄園的特色。

葡萄詮釋上天的樂器
在這荒野的山巔處，少人在嘴邊嚷著這是、那是哪種品種，他們注重的是這地塊或那園區所產出的酒的異同。雖然，經驗的傳承告訴布根地的農民應要種植Pinot Noir黑葡萄以釀紅酒，Chardonnay白葡萄以製白酒，但對Jean-Charles來說葡萄品種對他而言就似一種樂器：「藉著這樂器，它詮釋出土質的細節、地理的變化、微氣候的影響以及植栽、釀酒的手法」。

再進一步說，這也就言明一個專精的愛樂者，應該能夠明辨來自某地的這件樂器(葡萄品種)是否稱職地演譯作品，樂曲是否聽來和諧悅耳，不癡重拖累，氣質獨具？如有缺失，這不和諧來自何方，樂器本身(葡萄本身)…抑或是奏曲者(釀酒者)的技藝不精鍊？

又或者是技巧夠了，但個人品味影響所及？以 Jean-Charles來說，現下國際市場流行的高度橡木桶味的酒款是他避之微恐不及的，深怕無法精準地傳達出土地特點，濃妝下無緣見著佳人娟秀美顏。您要說喝個酒，搞這麻煩的思想作啥用？但，我想人文素養深厚的莊主一直是以這樣的思考深度去從事。也因此，他的酒可輕鬆來飲，親近怡人，如品酌也定可讓人喝出門道，點頭稱是。

Jean-Charles這個現代貴族也並不將自己錮鎖在傳統牢籠裡，2003年他去了趟阿根廷的高山葡萄酒產區Mendoza(蒙多薩)，品試了這個新興產區的Malbec(馬爾貝克品種)葡萄酒，驚喜它的好酒質，開了他眼界，也讓他未來可以將Domiane Bonneau du Martray在新世局中作更好的定位，並戳力潛釀醇釅美酒。

採收翌年的六月，氣溫回升，橡木桶內會自動進行第二階段的「乳酸發酵」。之後，酒質會變的更穩定。
In June of the year after harvest, the temperature in the cellar increased and wine in the barrel would undergo the malolactic fermentation automatically, such was then completed the fermentation of the wine.

酒莊裡約80%的酒用於出口，英、美、北歐為大宗，當中只有15%為亞洲市場，Jean-Charles表示還有相當的空間可開發。這時，話鋒再轉到亞洲，尤其是他鍾愛的華夏文化，便目睛炯炯，益發興奮。他回憶起兩三年前的台北故宮文物至巴黎特展，他與其夫人當天早上是第一批入內看展的，直到當晚閉館才依依不捨地離館，直說他們的心神全給攫住了，寸步不得離的。

窖藏查理曼老靈魂
問到是否有一個Oenotheque(存放歷年老酒的酒窖間)，Jean-Charles答有，不過目前來說還不是很齊全。他年幼時，家族聚會上常有du Martray的老酒，然而，因當時父執輩未留存太多老酒，故目前所剩並不多。自他接掌酒莊起，便有系統地保存數量較多的酒作為以後釀酒的評判依據。此外，他目前也推出酒莊原窖藏老酒，即將原封不動儲放在酒莊十到十二年的成熟酒買給VIP或高檔餐廳。據悉反應非常好，主要是因為現代人不願自行攤付酒窖的儲藏及空間成本。況且，家裡的酒窖再怎樣也比不得酒莊恆溫恆濕的窖藏。濕度飽漲的酒窖裡，Jean-Charles向我們說明採擷後的葡萄均在1991年裝設的新式Bucher氣墊式壓榨機(Pneumatic Bucher Press)進行輕柔榨汁。之後，相當特殊地讓果汁在1500公升的小型不鏽鋼桶進行初步輕微發酵，將溫度控低以延長發酵時間，以萃取最濃郁果香。之後，再將酒汁轉移到橡木桶中以進行正式的酒精發酵。2003年的葡萄汁竟然發酵了進四個月才完全結束…。

馬特萊莊紅白酒品質均佳，尤其Corton紅酒日受行家重視
Corton Grand Cru red wine of du Martray is a new discovery for knowledgeable wine lovers.

採收的翌年六月，釀酒窖溫度自然升高之時，橡木桶內的酒汁便會自動進行乳酸發酵。這樣，酒的發酵程序才告完成，而Corton-Charlemagme白酒也在木桶中待了十二個月，其中有30%是新桶，主要來自法國中部森林Allier與Nevers。然後接著Soutirage(換桶濾掉自行沉澱的酒渣)，之後再次將酒放入不鏽鋼桶中六個月，爾後便進行裝瓶。Jean-Charles主張不作機械式的過濾手續，以免疲累了葡萄酒，失去了清新的果香和活力。然而，du Martray酒色的澄清卻令人訝異，足以證明每個操作手續的一絲不茍。

旱季絕地逢生　２００３
2003年是個極度炎熱的乾旱年，葡萄品質佳，但酸度較低，產量比往年少了三分之一。酸度不高雖然有可能是白葡萄酒長期保存的致命傷，不過，Jean-Charles在數次的桶中品試後，對2003年酒質的前途絕對信心滿檔，並言：「葡萄酒的生命歷程比我們想像的都要複雜的多！」，言語裡充滿對Wine這個自然、文化產物的敬畏！

拜訪時值2004秋季採收，Bonneau duMartray九月二十即採收Chardonnay(夏多內)白葡萄，比政府單位規定的還早兩天，因為Jean-Charles判定成熟度已足，為保持足夠酸度釀酒，便申請提早採收且獲准。而Pinot Noir黑葡萄則還需幾日以臻至完熟。

下午四時的陽光仍炎炙刺眼，我們便先遁入儲酒室兼品酒處，就著木桶和燭光品試起來。DuMartray只產頂級(Grand Cru)酒，一為Corton-Charlemagne白酒，佔地9.5公頃。另一為Corton紅酒，佔地只1.5公頃。

Jean-Charles繞往成堆的酒架後頭，取來一酒，斟出，有透亮琥珀金光，第一支是1991年的Corton-Charlemagne。有濃熟的Coing (搵桲)果醬氣味，酸度適中，圓熟可口，還嚐有蜂蜜與薑糖風味，末尾乾爽兼具礦石風情，是一搭餐好酒。
接續的1993年份還年輕，有許多花香沁人，末尾剛直、型塑明確，有明顯的礦物肌理。當年採收細雨連綿，有這樣的成果，是令人敬佩的。承接1995顏色淡雅，晶透清亮，鼻息尚緊，或許須Decant。但仍有美熟果味，還不到果醬濃烈。一刻鐘後口感轉趨豐厚華美，尾韻如婚禮長裙擺，左盪右晃，沒完沒了。此酒另需五六年的沉潛以臻絕對至境。

換了一個世紀，Jean-Charles 取出2001年Corton-Charlemagne，剛裝瓶，果香層層疊疊，仍清爽，暗藏薄荷幽?。稍醒後，口感集中厚實，溫滑綿柔，前景無量。
2002清心白果、小野花香，但嚐來深入骨髓蘊理，比2001年更沉著紮實。Jean-Charles歸結到Batonnage(攪桶，使得死酵母菌與酒液增多接觸，益添風味)適切的功效，使得酒質尾韻耐人尋味，意味深長。

莊主將Corton-Charlemagne白葡萄園區分為15小塊，每塊各有小名，如：Lilas(丁香園)、Cerisier(櫻桃園)，產出風味各異的葡萄，Jean-Charles在每年品嚐過後，將這15種作料，有的用以添香，或取來增味，協同轉化出du Martray風格的Corton-Charlemagne白酒。

JC的金三角
國際酒評家不吝惜的誇讚，致使2002年布根地酒價大躍進，但酒迷熱情不曾稍減，依舊急起直追02年的傳奇。至少以Domaine Bonneau du Martray來論，Jean-Charles認為其實2000、2001、2002已經形成一個品質的金三角，各者都相當好，只有風格的差異，嚴格說並無品質高下問題，他實在不懂這樣的跟風心態。要說，他覺得2002就是稍微更濃厚些罷了。

以我在2004初春試過的幾家布根地酒廠來言，其實有許多2001年的紅酒口感架構上都還勝過2002年。不過，來日方長，葡萄酒是這樣一個神秘可人的尤物，難以捉摸也正是其迷人處。總之，不管01或02年，這都是讓人可安心品購的年份。當然，廠家的技術、名聲也是考慮要點。

接著品試的是日趨受行家重視的Corton紅酒。2002年份才裝瓶，紅寶石般晰透，氣息優雅令人來回探鼻，然嚐來一點不似典型Corton紅酒的豐厚直接，它香氣更細美清雅，口感絲綢甘柔，一派大家閨秀，實在更接近北邊一點兒的Chambolle-Musigny(香堡?木西尼)，尾韻回甘，一回更勝一回。2001年的Corton雖然口感仍美緻，不過末尾有內勁，渾厚有力道，還帶些香料暈染，終是回到了Corton的野性，然總是一貫優雅。法國Bettane& Desseauve葡萄酒評鑑2004版也給予2001 年的Corton紅酒 9/10的高評價。

十幾年前，在Jean-Charles的父親掌園時代，此莊的紅酒品質較不穩。當時的釀酒師因過於謹慎，怕過度粹取把酒釀苦了，因此酒質有些時候缺少了集中度和厚度。不過，此時的Corton在Jean-Charles的嚴選嚴管之下，已非吳下阿蒙，是值得珍品的好東西。

Du Martray的Corton園就在它的Corton-Charlemegne白葡萄園下方，土壤色澤深褐些，但仍有許多石灰岩基底，與其它Corton區的土壤組成不太一樣。再加上朝西南向，夏日此寶地仍能吸取晚間九時不過炙烈的暖陽，使得Pinot Noir黑葡萄得以緩慢熟成且保有清新酸度。是以，此酒身段柔美，氣息高雅，是行家的新歡，可惜產量不大。

Burgundy is renowned for making some of world's greatest white wine and red wine. One of the secrets of course is its terroir. Strictly regulated by French AOC, Burgundy was much more carefully classified than other regions, which meant that best possible practices are in place to ensure the quality of wine produced. But under such regulations Burgundy still makes wines taste similar yet also so different.

When you drive pass Burgundy from North to South at the high speed of 200km per hour, you don't actually see such fine classification of land, but you will definitely notice a hill about 400m high, which local people called it Montagne de Corton. Conspicuously round, Alexis Lichine (famous French wine writer), once under the influence of alcohol, called it fully-developed breast. But for me, this is the land of milk and honey, because this place produces Burgundies greatest white wine Corton-Charlemagne and respectable red wine Corton. Both are classified as Grand Cru.

Vineyard bestowed by Charlemagne
It was written in the history that the Great Charlemagne (742-782 AD) enjoyed his red-wine, but his white beard often stained in red because of the wine. The queen felt that such would diminish his authority, so she recommended him to drink white wine instead; therefore Charlemagne asked all vines producing red grapes to be uprooted and planted with white grapes. We did not know how much truth was in it but Charlemagne did bestow 3 hectare of land to Abbey de Saulieu in 775 AD. According to the historian Camille Rodier, the 3 hectare of land which was given to Abbey is now in the Corton-Charlemagne most famous Domaine Bonneau du Martray.

Our appointment was at 4 o'clock but we drank too much during our lunch so I and the photographer left our place later than anticipated. We drove around narrow paths asking for the direction to du Martray's place. We then reached a cul-de-sac and saw a slender man dressed in plain jersey and cotton trousers, we approached him for direction. The man we approached for direction was in fact the owner of the Bonneau du Matray Jean-Charles le Bault de la Moriniere.
From his surname we should have guessed that he is an aristocracy but he certainly did show any resentment for our lateness, instead he came around and gave us a warm welcome. Jean-Charles is passionate about Chinese and Tibetan cultures. When he heard our photographer Mr. Chou has been everywhere in China, he said that he would like to follow him and be his assistants, hoping that he can travel to Far East in Jeep and not with Boeings. Later Jean-Charles told us that his ancestor was a preacher in China about 200 years ago, and his body was buried near the Forbidden City in Beijing.

Since the Charlemagne era, this land has a cultivation history for more than 1200 years, but Jean-Charles humbly said that it was no comparison to the history of Chinese culture. But so many past land owners have accumulated so much experience in how to tend this piece of land, especially on selecting which side to plant, taking record of average sunshine hours and rainfalls, analyzing soil content, planting materials so that when nature was harsh they knew how to do deal with it. There was no formula, but by reacting to what was given by God and adjust the wine-making techniques we let the terroir express itself.

80% of wine produced in the domain is exported to UK, US and Scandinavia, of which 15% of total export was to Asia, Jean-Charles felt that there was definitely room for improvement. But as we changed our topic to Asia Jean-Charles became excited. He said two or three years ago there was an exhibition from National Palace Museum in Taiwan in Paris, he and his wife stood in the front line to get into the exhibition and they stayed there until the end of day. He said his mind was virtually captured by such beauty

The soul of Charlemagne in the cellar
We asked him whether he has a Oenotheque (cellar for storing vintage wines), Jean-Charles said they do but it was not complete. He said when he was young, there were always vintaged du Martray wine in the family gathering, but his father, uncles and his grandfather did not keep too many of them behind so there were not many left. But since he took over he has systematically kept more wines back for future reference. Nowaday he also released wine aged in the cellar for 10-12 years to his VIPs and prestige restaurants. He said that their reactions were good, because people didn't want to spent money on building own cellar or did not have the space, and also even wine-cellar with temperature and humidity apparatus you still can't compete with wine aged in the natural underground cellar in the Domaine.

In the cellar Jean-Charles told us that after 1991 all grapes harvested were crashed gently by the Bucher Pneumatic press. After crashing, he allowed the juice to ferment slightly in the 1500 liter stainless tanks, and by maintaining low temperature he could prolong the pre- fermentation maceration so that the rich fruit taste could be extracted. He then transfered the juice to oak barrel for alcohol fermentation. In 2003 it took his wine four months to complete the fermentation.

In June of the year after harvest, the temperature in the cellar increased and wine in the barrel would undergo the malolactic fermentation automatically, such was then completed the fermentation of the wine. Wine made from Corton-Charlemagne region stayed in barrel (elevage) for 12 months, 30 % in new barrels made from oak coming from central France Allier and Nevers region. After that he would do racking (Soutirage: transfer wines from one barrel to another to eliminate the dead yeast and sediment lie in wine), then he let the wine to stay in the Stainless tank for 6 months and bottled after. Jean-Charles did not believe in filtering, because he felt that such action could strip out the essence of fruit and character in wine. But even without filtering du-Martray's wine are very clear, which shows that every step in fermentation was carried out in great care.

The comeback of 2003
2003 was an extremely hot year with draught, the quality of the grape was good but low in acidity and the production was about 1/3 less than previous years. One of the concerns then was low acidity in wine because low acidity in wine influenced the ageability, but Jean-Charles, after few barrel-tasting, was confident about his 2003. He said that the life span of a wine was much more complicate than we can image. From his words we knew he has huge respect for the wine.

While we were at the Domaine it was also their harvesting period, Bonneau Du Martray started harvesting Chardonnay on the 20th September, which was two days earlier than the permitted date. Jean-Charles felt that his grape has reached the desirable sugar level and enough acidity and he applied for early harvesting and got the permission. The Pinot Noir on the other hand needed a few more days to reach its optimum level.

The afternoon sun was still dazzling as we went to the cellar/tasting room surrounded by barrels and candle lights and started tasting. Du Martray only makes Grand Cru wines, Corton-Charlemagne for white wine from 9.5 hectare land and Corton for red wine from 1.6 hectare.

From stacks of wine Jean-Charles picked out a bottle and poured it to me. The wine was transparent and glistened with the colour of amber. That wine was 1991 Corton-Charlemagne. It had rich Coing jam aroma, moderate acidity, honey and ginger candy on the palate, with mineral aftertaste. Round and delicious, it was an excellent wine to match with food.

1993 followed. Rather youngish, with plenty of floral aromas, firm aftertaste with weight on the palate, also clear minerality. It was hard to image that this wine was made from grape grown in a year with plenty of rain.

Then 1995. It had light but bright color, the nose was still tight(need decanting maybe?), but it already had rich fruit taste, but not yet as dense as jam. One second the taste exploited in the mouth, with the aftertaste like the trail of a wedding gown. This wine will be perfect for drinking in 5 to 6 years time.

Into the new century, Jean-Charles took out the recent bottled 2001 Corton-Charlemagne. This wine had plenty layers of fruit, elegant with fresh taste of mint. After decanting the wine woke up with smooth and silky taste. This wine has good ageabilty. .

2002 had the white fruit and wild flower aroma, and followed through to the palate. This wine was denser and more structured than 2001. Jean-Charles said that it was due to Batonnage (stirring white wines to ensure even distribution of the lees through the liquid) which made this wine's aftertaste so appealing.

Jean-Charles divided his vineyard in Corton-Charlemagne into 15 sections and he has name for each of them. For example :Lilas and Cerisier... Every year Jean Charles would taste each one of them and decide which one is for adding flavor and decide which one is fored the ar which one is for increasing the dimension of taste in order to make the final “assemblage” (amalgamating the different casks to unify wine into one cuvee for bottling)

Jean-Charles golden triangle
2002 Burgundy was declared by most wine critics as a magnificent vintage, which of course led to the sky rocketed price. Even with such high price the demand for 2002 Burgundy was still strong. But for Bonneau du Martray, Jean-Charles felt that his 2000、2001 and 2002 were like a triangle, they were all good but with different styles, so strictly speaking there was no one better than others. He did not understand the public reaction; he only felt that 2002 was just slightly richer.

I have tasted wines from few domains in Burgundy earlier this year and to me many 2001's red tasted better than 2002. But nobody knows how those wines will taste in few years time, and that is the mystery of wine. 2001 and 2002 are both customer-friendly vintage. Of course, when selecting wines the skill of wine maker and the reputation of domains must also be considered.

Then we tasted the promising Corton. Vintage 2002 was just bottled, with Ruby color and elegant aromas, this wine made you want to come back for more. It did not taste like a typical Corton. Its aroma was smooth and its texture was silky, more like a Chambolle-Musigny than Corton. Delicate aftertaste. 2001 was also elegant, but its aftertaste was much more structured and firm with flavours. This wine had Corton's character in it. The 2004 French Bettane & Desseauve Guide gave this wine a high score of 9/10.

Decades ago when Jean-Charles father was in charge of the domaine, the quality of its red was inconsistent because the wine-maker was afraid of extracting too much tannin that the wine made then lacked body and taste. But with Jean-Charles his Corton is not what it used to be.

The vineyard of Corton is situated at the bottom of Corton-Charlemagne. The color of the soil was darker with limestone as its base, which was quite different from other section of Corton's soil composition. Also because it is south-west facing, it can retain heat from sun at 9 o'clock in the evening, so Pinot Noir grown there could ripe slowly and had plenty of acidity. This wine has now attracted many wine connoisseurs attention, but unfortunately the production was small.
As the sun set, we went back strolling in the vineyard. Men and women harvesting grape all had blush, I guess it must be from the kindness of late autumn sun. Further down on the other side of land there is a piece of unkempt land, Jean-Charles told me that that piece of land was “tired” and old vines were all dried up, so two years ago they up-rooted every thing and turned the soil to let it regain its vitality.

Farming the future organically
He pointed to me a scrub and said that they were like vine's servants, with their existence they knew that the soil was not hardened by the contamination of chemical fertilizer. Often vine could extend its root to 6 meters deep in such vitality, also vine reaching deep soils can prevent soil erosion.

In his father's era, grape growers used chemicals to kill germs and bacteria on planting material when replanting, now du Martray implements organic farming. He said that each vine has a life span of 70 years and it needs three generations of sweat and hard work to let vines keep on producing good grapes for wines, so much care to vine is needed. Jean-Charles looked at the fallow land and said with sincerity.

Currently du Martray has embarked on the Selection Massale replanting program, which is to select the best vines from the vineyards and not from the nurseries for replanting. In the old days domains used to plant vines from the cutting of existing vines. But when they want their new vines to have better resistance to pest and frost and increase in productivity, the grape growers would have to seek out replanting material elsewhere. Maybe with Selection Massale, Bonneau du Martray can create the white wine which resembles the taste of Charlemagne. Maybe such is a fantasy but drinking wine while reminiscing Charlemgane brings out a different level of appreciation in wine.

Good vintages that need aging in Bonneau du Martray
白酒：2002, 2001, 2000,1997,1996, 1995, 1990,1986，1983.
紅酒：2002,1999,1998, 1996,1995.