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Robuchon 奪獎狂獸
今年六十的Robuchon，因幼年家庭清簡，故自十五歲起便在故鄉法國中部城市Poitier的飯店廚房裡工作。一位廚藝大家的個人藝術史自此開展。稱畢卡索是畫家或蕭邦是鋼琴家都是不妥的，因他們已經精練到一起一落間，灑點成畫，彈指成章，自成一家，誠大藝術家也。如在巴賽隆納的畢卡索博物館看過年方十五的畫家素描，你也會同意一位偉大的藝術家正在萌發中。而當年二十來歲的Robuchon也將自己練成了一部精準的做菜機器，各種料理作工都純熟而完美，更囊括了一時之間的大小競賽獎牌，堪稱Bete a Concours「奪獎狂獸」。
1969年Robuchon遇到了老一代的名廚Jean Delaveyne，從此他茅塞頓開，用食材為顏料，以餐盤為畫布，意念先行，廚藝隨之。這時的Robuchon，自創技巧已逐漸成熟，揮灑出一家風範。1976年他獲得Meilleur Ouvrier de France (法國最佳工藝獎)的榮譽後， 受邀赴日教授法國菜。旅日期間，他也汲取了更多的東方養分，內化為己用。
傳奇三星餐廳Jamin
1981年Robuchon在巴黎開了第一家自己的餐廳Jamin。三個月後，Michelin美食指南評給第一顆星，隔年再添一星，再隔年三星到位，是有史以來以最短時間奪得三星的餐廳，至此名廚地位確立。錦上添花再一樁，1990年與Michelin齊名的法國飲食權威指南Gault-Millau，將Robuchon評選為Chef du Siecle (世紀名廚)。同時Jamin也連續幾年被紐約時報評為「世界最佳十大餐廳之首」。Jamin餐廳在1993年結束，幾星期後Robuchon重新以其本名開設了新餐廳Joel Robuchon，同樣很快獲得三星評等。
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1996年，50歲的Robuchon宣佈退休，當時各界一片惋惜，覺得一個時代過去了。Robuchon表示要長期撐起一間三星餐廳，壓力重如泰山壓頂。許多星級名廚早在五十歲都宿疾纏身，如名廚也是他的摯友Allain Chapelle更因心疾身亡。此外，歲月催人老，Robuchon觀察到體力的退化會使料理水準漸走下坡，遂急流勇退了。
然，新世紀大轉輪初始，大家敬愛的、想念的Robuchon又重新站回舞台。只不過新的舞台是由他自己設計搭建的，他是藝術總監、製作人、也是陶醉其中的演員。2001年他接下葡京酒店法國餐館，改名Robuchon a Galera，派弟子Francky Semblat主其事，繼續以精食細燴鼓舞人心。好事不嫌多，近兩年巴黎和東京的新慨念餐館L'Artelier de Joel Robuchon，和以Fine Dining為主調的La Table de Joel Robuchon，都一再地激奮著老饕們的心肝脾胃腎。
此間十月暮秋時節，又是義國Alba(阿爾巴)地區的白松露季。膳食首重時令， Robuchon準時回到澳門準備白松露晚宴，如北燕南飛，一年一度，已是第三回合。 |
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由產區義大利阿爾巴空運至澳門的珍稀白松露，香氣細雅。
The white truffles for the night's gala are directly air cargo shipped from ltaly. |
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難以駕馭的白松露
白松露屬世界上最珍貴的食材之一， 不但稀罕且料理不易，它在烹飪上的適應性較黑松露更顯侷限。例如，它在東南亞的溫濕氣候中只要放上一刻鐘，其香氣便開始凋靡，顯得美人遲暮。
嬌貴的白松露也不易與其它食材搭配，通常只能取最平淡但質佳的材料來襯托白松露的清雅飄逸，如蛋、麵及米。擅長處理白松露的義大利廚師
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可以停留在這些美味且安逸的組合中，但Robuchon自然不會只安於現狀， 這特地每年舉辦的白松露宴就是對自我的持續挑戰。
世紀名廚松露宴所以，這場由Robuchon自編自導且領銜主演的「白松露華宴」第三幕是不凡的、充滿期待的。2002年首演的第一幕， 讓人驚嘆不已，2003年續演的第二幕，教人滿意中?有些許惋惜。那今年呢? 今晚呢? 盛宴前，香港老酒專家William Giauw及Mingo Tang帶來多瓶佳釀，分別是1989 Champagne Cristal、1999 Montrachet Amiot Guy、1990 Ch. La Conseillante、1982 Ch. Cheval Blanc、1978 Hermitage La Chapelle、1970 Ch. Petrus、1959 Ch. Latour以及1981 Henri Jayer，部分老酒已由William在下午先行換瓶。餐酒搭配由<酒經>月刊總編輯劉致新排序。晚間八時, 來自港澳台三地、跨越壯青幼三代的美食團隊, 經過餐前香檳的refreshing, 已然在圓桌前安然就座, 靜待這場美食大戲響鑼開場.
先上的是開胃小點L'Amuse-Bouche---Diablotins de Truffe Feuilletes (炸松露千層酥捲)。千層的口感酥鬆，起司捲白松露喚醒了腦門嗜味神經，鼻竅舌蕊胃口一時都開了。 |
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澳門的Robuchon a Galera餐廳一景
French Restaurant Robuchon a Galera in Macau |
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Robuchon小麵包
果真來到Robuchon a Galera，隨餐的Petit Pains de Robuchon (侯布匈小麵包)絕不可錯失。這些麵包小巧適口，長著俏皮小尾巴，內裡飽富咬勁，外衣酥脆，輕握則劈啪作響。難怪這裡的座上客無不喜愛！
1981年的Jamin餐廳已經專設有麵包主廚，在當時這仍是新鮮事一件，可見Robuchon總是引領潮流。而現在的Robuchon a Galera，仍可嚐到由專業麵包主廚特烘現烤的美味。捨工業蘇打粉而堅持使用天然酵母，做出的麵包硬是多點麵麥香和Q勁，咬來回甘帶微微酸，耐人尋味。
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拱多拉破題 雙人舞獻藝
開胃小點之後，是破題尤物La Fine Feuille Persillee a la Truffe---En Gondole, a la Fondue de Comte (拱多拉小船薄脆餅，承載白松露薄切，康堤起司調味，翠鑲扁葉香芹)。一舟扁葉輕透脆薄如蟬翼，這幾片白薄切罄得人忍不住口水溢淥 以拇指食指挑起，送入口中，一時脆咬喀滋聲四起，眾人杯盤淨空、意猶未盡。Montrachet白酒相襯得來鮮採玉蘭香，甚好。
接著是Le Duo Mele de Truffe et de Pommes Rate---a l'Huile Vierge, Comme un Carpaccio aux Copeaux de Foie Gras d'Oie Legerement fume (松露，小鼠土豆雙人舞，搭薄切鵝肝)。底舖暱稱小老鼠的細幼馬鈴薯與鵝肝濃融，綿細滑溜，襯上鮮削松露悠香滋味自不在話下。上頭灑了細切小棒Radis(小紅皮白蘿蔔)，增色添口感。此菜的秘訣是底下櫬的濃熟的細輾蒜茸，這是提味松露的妙方。此外，小洋蔥、青蔥或Leek (韭蔥)對松露來說都是良相佐國，益增光彩
松露勾鴿蛋 通粉掰蟹黃
第一道中西合壁料理Une Goutte Frivole a l'Oeuf de Pigeon---au Miroire avec Asperges Vertes, Truffe et Herbes Ameres (滴露型脆麵包托半熟鴿卵荷包，佐綠蘆筍、松露清苦野菜葉)。鴿卵是唯一中國元素，擺盤仍是西洋形構。這小葉帶苦的山野村蔬是取來與蛋提味的，這才搭勾得上松露，將潛藏其中的乾果味更加突顯，是兩者的中介質。蘆筍用來轉換口感，再從頭遁入蛋及松露的曖昧裡。配酒是1982年的Cheval Blanc，顯得意味深長，清甜脫俗。
侍者輕巧地旋入座位間，端上La Crabe Couronne---aux Macaronis, avec Coraux Royaux et Une Rapee de Tartufi (通心粉冠圈蟹肉蟹黃，穿戴白松露薄切)。這裡玩兩面手法，通心粉冠裡的脂腴蟹肉與蟹黃是要混著松露一起喫的，此時別忘掰下一片通心粉，一起咀嚼出彈牙裡有松露噴香，一嚼一咬，哪有不香之理！Decant醒酒四小時，1978 La Chapelle在黑莓果味外顯露出甘涼青草茶風味，韻悠長。
千層豆腐頂脆餅 一瓢三味松露香
接著，四方瓷盤界線出一方天下Le Mille-feuille de Tofu---aux Delices d'Alba sous Une Voilette Parmesane (千層豆腐上頂起司薄紗脆餅，阿爾巴白松露)。這道創意十足的千層豆腐內夾的是菠菜泥及松露薄片。然，因為是軟滑蛋豆腐，合上菜泥和熱後軟熟的松露顯得無法裡應外合，口感同調，且菠菜顯得有點調味不足，少了點辛香味？幸好，Parmesan脆餅和現刨尚帶脆感的松露解圍，層次及味道多了些變化。不過，應還有改良空間。1970 Petrus年輕有勁，泛藍紫光，絲滑絨軟，紅黑莓果味極悠長。 |
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現在是L'Eclipse de Truffe Blanche---En Veloute aux Trios Saveurs, Celeri, Champagnon et Potimarron (芹菜蕈菇扁形南瓜三品濃湯，白松露蓋天)。一瓢三味，稠密香滑。外圍，芹菜靈動帶些草本苦澀，提攜中段南瓜甜美沉靜，內圍，蕈菇攢味添香，更添風華。刨上松露片，撩一匙，合上嘴簾，將「嗯…」的讚嘆就含在嘴裡了。1959 Latour雖艷驚四座，但Bungundy酒的教父，比Domaine de la Romanee Conti還希罕的Henri Jayer才識濃湯真味，其香氣可與松露競飆！
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進甜點前，還有一道La Cappuccino de Truffe a la Pintade Caramelisee---et a l'Arroz Bomba Cuit Dans un Bouillon Gras Parfume aux Cepes (焦糖珠雞松露卡布其諾)。
在杯中探得緊緻口感彈牙的珠雞肉，刮杓濃泡混著松露味道甚好。惟杯底墊著一些湯汁溽濕的Risotto(義式燉飯)，醬汁有點香菇醬油的口感，對華人口味來說，過鹹，不太討好，可惜了。
茉莉花凍 直比天使寶盒
隨Robuchon自巴黎前來的甜點師傅Francois Benot，為晚宴帶來甜美驚喜。第一式是Le Meli-Melon---Gelee au Jasmin, Billes et Poussiere de Melon, Chantilly au Melon, Tuiles au Poivron Rouge (香瓜雪泥下墊茉莉花凍，紅甜椒瓦片)。也是中西同台的表現，清口爽朗，非常宜人。尤其愛茉莉花凍，自問中國人怎就沒想到將花香凍凝搭配冰霜來喫。帶點輕微甜辣的甜紅椒薄瓦也是一絕，以之當匙將冰香瓜泥挑來嚐，別有雅趣。
Angle's Box---Compotee de Mangue, Cr?me Legere aux Marron et Chocolat (天使盒子，巧克力栗子克林姆下藏芒果泥醬)。這寶盒由白巧克力組成，當中Cr?me細綿滑口，再往下挖食，還有巧克力米果，和甜美的芒果粒，其上的魔術糖棒也是可食的。另一有興味的吃法是將由M & M's巧克力作成的盒扣拉開，讓甜美寶藏綿密流出，再以浮貼金箔紅長匙舀食。
餐後飲茶時，侍者又端來搭配的Petit-Four小甜食，五間精緻小房，各具特色，小巧美煥，精巧到不知從哪拆食起！這甜點Mr. Benot在巴黎是不作的。此次，準備時間充裕，他又玩性大發，一眾食客跟著享福！
永遠的松露雲吞湯
餐後時分，Robuchon率兩位主廚前來致意。大家公認今晚的表現，是三年來「白松露宴」中最好的。致謝、握手、合照、問候、…..在座的多是Robuchon的粉絲舊識，自然分外珍惜。佳餚美酒，豈只口腹俗物? 此情此景，真情流露。
話說松露有催情作用，當晚眾人酒酣耳熱，興致正高，不忍就此道別。但是晚獨身者眾，遂邀大夥到葡京內的「不夜天Cafe」繼續高論。凌晨一時半，幾碗熱雲吞湯送上，正要入口，好巧不巧，Robuchon也與諸廚師前來宵夜，見著我們人前一碗熱湯，他驚聲道：「你們還沒吃飽呀，要不要再加刨幾片白松露下湯？」。眾人相視大笑，點頭稱是，想像著這碗有了名廚與松露雙倍加持的雲吞，。幸福地喝下，更在心裡與Robuchon大師相約明秋再見。 |
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Contact info:
Restaurant Robuchon a Galera, Tel:+(853) 377 666
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Macau is the Las Vegas of the Far East, a shimmering adult playground that's bustling with energy all day and night. On October 23rd, sixty gourmets gathered together at the Lisboa Hotel in Macau and they were only there to do one thing: Eat!
Chef of the Century V.S. Whites Truffles
It took just two elements to attract these several dozen gourmets to come to Macau and chow down: the appearance of world famous French chef Jo?l Robuchon and Italian white truffles. Together, they made a cookery dream team that could not fail to please. Mr. Robuchon has spent the best part of his life creating culinary masterpieces for others to admire and savor. He turned 60 this year and when he was young, his family was quite poor.
At 15, he left home to work at a hotel in Poitier, which is located in the middle of France. Artistic geniuses such as Picasso at his easel or Chopin at the piano spend great deals of time in learning their expert techniques, which appear to be effortless when in fact it has taken great effort and study to reach such a high level. By the time Mr. Robuchon was in his early twenties, he had acquired great cooking skills and had won several highly acclaimed culinary prizes at cooking competitions. That is how he earned the nickname “La B?te ? Concours” (“The Competitive Beast”). His quest was insatiable, which would not leave the flag of his imagination furled. |
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芹菜蕈菇扁形南瓜三品濃湯，白松露蓋天
L'Eclipse de Truffe Blanche---En Veloute aux Trios Saveurs, Celeri, Champagnon et Potimarron |
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In 1969, Mr. Robuchon met the great French chef Jean Delaveyne, who once said, "Cooking is like conducting an orchestra, and all the instruments must be in tune."Indeed, meeting Mr. Delaveyne marked the beginning a new era for Mr. Robuchon as he started to consider food as paint and the plate as a blank canvas upon which he would create culinary art. His culinary works lead to a proud milestone in 1976 when Mr. Robuchon won the Meilleur Ouvrier de France, the highest culinary award in the land. After that, he had the courage to face new tremors running through the intellectual atmosphere. Thus he was invited to Japan to teach French cuisine and while there he also learned much from the Japanese.
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Legendary 3 Satrs JAMIN
Mr. Robuchon opened his first Paris restaurant, Jamin, in 1981. His fame grew by leaps and bounds due to this and The New York Times was listed Jamin as #1 of the top ten restaurants around the world. But the staircase goes on without end and in 1993, he closed Jamin and opened a new restaurant called Joel Robuchon, also a 3 Michelin star restaurant. In 1996, “the chef of the century” (as he is known in France) Mr. Robuchon was now 50 and before he could return as he did each day to fickle life, he suddenly announced that he was retiring from the food business to much shock and surprise. He felt that the era in which to create gourmet food for him had passed. In addition, there is tremendous pressure to run and maintain a 3-star restaurant and some of his friends in the food business have suffered greatly, such as renowned Chef Alain Chapelle who died from heart disease.
Yet as the new millennium dawned, Mr. Robuchon took to the culinary stage once again. The difference is this time he was in control of everything. In 2001, he took over the old restaurant at Hotel Lisboa in Macau, changing it into Robuchon a Galera. The Hotel Lisboa is Macau's city landmark, well known for the thrills of its casino and now for its superb restaurant as well. Mr. Robuchon also opened up a restaurant in Paris and in Tokyo called L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon and a fine-dinning restaurant in Paris, La Table de Joel Robuchon. All the marvels have hurried to these Robuchon restaurants around the world, encouraged to partake of the epicurean pursuits that gourmets delight in with his fantastic food feasts.
At the end of autumn in October, it's white truffle season in Alba, Italy. Every year at this time, Mr. Robuchon returns to Macau with armloads of white truffles to prepare a special white truffle dinner. October 2004 marks the third time that he has done this.
The white truffle is a rare and costly delicacy with a slightly garlicky flavor. Truffle hunters in Italy and France use pigs and dogs to sniff out truffles. They prefer dogs rather than pigs because pigs love to eat truffles!
The white truffle dinner is like a new film and Mr. Robuchon is the film's director. He lovingly creates the scene where the food takes center stage. The diners are the fortunate actors blessed to take part in such a glorious event of edible art. Some Hong Kong friends have brought along these excellent wines to have with our meal:A 1989 Champagne Cristal, a 1999 Montrachet Amiot Guy, a 1990 Ch. La Conseillante, a 1982 Ch. Cheval Blanc, a 1978 Hermitage La Chapelle, a 1970 Ch. Petrus, a 1959 Ch. Latour, and a 1981 Henri Jayer. |
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焦糖珠雞松露卡布其諾 |
| La Cappuccino de Truffe a la Pintade Caramelisee---et a l'Arroz Bomba Cuit Dans un Bouillon Gras Parfume aux Cepes |
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香瓜雪泥下墊茉莉花凍，紅甜椒瓦片 |
| Le Meli-Melon---Gelee au Jasmin, Billes et Poussiere de Melon, Chantilly au Melon, Tuiles au Poivron Rouge |
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一口小甜食 |
| Petit-Four |
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Petit Pains de Robuchon
The first course was L'Amuse-Bouche---Diablotins de Truffe Feuilletes. This was deep milles-feuilles covered in cheese and fresh truffles between layers of Filo pastry. You just want to keep on eating them but you must realize that they are only appetizers leading up to the main course! There's no need to mention the fabulous Petit Pains de Robuchon, small round buns with a crunchy crust and soft inside. Everyone gladly ate at least three of these buns.
Following the appetizers came after that, La Fine Feuille Persillee a la Truffe---En Gondole, a la fondue de Comte, which were crepe cookies with shavings of white truffles, Comte cheese and parsley on them. They resembled small boats on your plate with an exquisite aroma. To drink, there was flowery Montrachet white wine.
The next exciting morsel to arrive was Le Duo Mele de Truffe et de Pommes Rate---a l'Huile Vierge, Comme un Carpaccio aux Copeaux de Foie Gras D'oie Legerement Fume. Young potatoes, which are nicknamed “little rats,” are on the bottom, with goose liver foie gras melted over them. On top of that are shavings of white truffle which creates an outstanding chef d'oeuvre. A few red radishes garnished the dish and the secret to enhancing the flavor of the truffle is finely chopped and mashed garlic sprinkled around the potatoes. |
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天使盒子，巧克力栗子克林姆下藏芒果泥醬
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| Angle's Box---Compotee de Mangue, Cr?me Legere aux Marron et Chocolat |
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Chinese Meets Western
At last, the First Course, Une Goutte Frivole a l'Oeuf de Pigeon---au Miroire avec Asperges Vertes, Truffe et Herbes Ameres, reached our waiting palates. It consisted of a toasted slice of fine bread with a half of a boiled pigeon egg perched atop of it. Alongside this were green asparagus, white truffles and bitter herb leaves. The pigeon egg came was the Chinese touch, while all the other ingredients were Western. To accompany the First Course, we drank a 1982 Cheval Blanc Bordeaux red, which was mellow and fresh, with long finishing.
Waiters danced back and forth as if performing a ballet as they deftly brought in the Second Course, which was La Crabe Couronne---aux Macaronis, avec Coraux Royaux et une Rapee de Tartufi. This meal was macaroni pasta filled with crab meat and crab roe. White truffle shavings adorned the macaroni and resembled people dressed in their finery. You must eat the macaroni with crab meat together with the truffles to experience the natural fragrance of the truffles, the smoothness of the crab and the tenderness of the pasta. As a beverage, we were served a 1978 Hermitage La Chapelle, which is a wine with the flavors of blackberry and Chinese fresh herbes , very refreshing.
Following that came the Third Course, Le Mille-Feuille de Tofu---aux Delices d'Alba Sous une Voilette Parmesane.” This was multiple layers of tofu roofed with a thin and crispy Parmesan cheese bread. In between the tofu layers were mashed spinach and truffle shavings. The tofu was exceedingly soft but combined with the spinach, truffles and cheese bread, it became a magnificent meal in itself. A 1970 Petrus is the drink of choice, still young and strong, purple and blue in color, with the fragrance of berries.
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Marvelous Truffle Soup
The Fourth Course was L'Eclipse de Truffe Blanche---en Veloute aux Trois Saveurs, Celeri, Champagnon et Potimarron. This was a celery, mushroom and pumpkin soup with white truffle shavings over it. The freshness of the celery is the first thing you taste, then you reach the pumpkin's sweet and robust flavor, followed by incredible mushrooms. Together with the white truffles, all of these flavors mix in the mouth to produce a splendid sensation. Henri Jayer, the god-father of Burgundy wines, was served with this course. It is a very rare wine, even rarer than the Domaine de la Romanee Conti.
Before dessert, there came La Cappuccino de Truffe a la Pintade Caramelisee---et a l'Arroz Bomba Cuit Dans un Bouillon Gras Parfume aux Cepes. This consisted of a bowl which had on the bottom a bed of Italian risotto rice with soy sauce, topped by tender guinea fowl pieces and shavings of piquant white truffle.
Then for dessert, we were served a gustatorial surprise created especially for us by Chef Francois Benot entitled Le Meli-Melon---Gelee au Jasmin, Billes et Poussiere de Melon, Chantilly au Melon, Tuiles au Poivron Rouge. This was a melon ice with frozen Jasmine jelly below it, sitting on a slice of crisp chips red bell pepper. The red pepper can be used as a spoon to scoop it all up, so you can taste the crunchy red pepper chips and the coolness of the melon ice and sweet Jasmine tea.
Another dessert arrived after that called Angel's Box---Compotee de Mangue, Cr?me Legere aux Marron et Chocolat. It was a white chocolate box with three layers—the first is chestnut cream, then a chocolate rice cookie below that, with sweet mango on the bottom. A lollipop like a magic wand sticks out from the box, enticing the diner to wave it about and make a bold, angelic wish.
After this amazing meal, we drank tea and ate special sweet Petit-Fours, bite-sized French pastries. In Paris, Chef Benot does not make this dessert at all but here in Macau he made it expressly for our enjoyment.
During the great meal, Joel Robuchon made a felicitous announcement that on December 4, 2004, he will be returning to Macau to embark on an exclusive dinner party that comprises of wild animals,games How we so look forward to meeting the master of the grand cuisine again in the near future. |
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| Robuchon在1981年巴黎Jamin餐廳時代，就已經有麵包專門主廚專司麵包製作，Robuchon小麵包也成了Robuchon系列餐廳的招牌特色之一。捨工業蘇打粉而堅持使用天然酵母，做出硬是多點麵麥香和Q勁，咬來回甘帶微微酸，耐人尋味。 |
| There's no need to mention the fabulous Petits Pains de Robuchon, small riund buns with a crunchy crust and soft inside. A must-eat feast! |
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