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首先接見我們的是對外關係主任Pascale Rousseau (廬梭女士)。著套裝的她，優雅洗鍊，講話總是不疾不徐，對聽者的耳膜是一種音波共振的舒適按摩。
坐定之後，我將精緻的棕色冰糖棒在紅茶裡攪拌一下，以話家常的方式問:「什麼是KRUG的Style呢，這樣的風格又來自何處呢？來自葡萄園裡或釀酒的方式呢？」。這位與18世紀法國偉大的啟蒙思想家盧梭同姓的Rousseau女士似乎覺得我的問題太過於形而下，眼神往右上角飄了一下，接著朝我定睛一望講述起KRUG的由來。
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KRUG的誕生
「其實在KRUG，我們的最高指導原則就是味道，屬於KRUG自有的味道…。當初德裔的Johann-Joseph Krug是在1834年創立KRUG的。不過，J-J Krug剛開始是先在另一家知名香檳酒莊Jacquesson任職的，然而他卻比一般當時的香檳區酒農，對於當時某些英國飲家的評語較為敏感。那時英國的飲家對於老的Bordeaux(波爾多酒)和Port(波特酒)特別有興趣， 老英的味蕾較習慣於這樣比較成熟、帶些氧化乾果味的酒，也欣賞隨之而來的複雜度。當時在KRUG建立之前，J-J所常常聽到的評語是：「聽著，我喜歡您的香檳清新、雅致、順口，不過您難道沒有更濃郁集中，有較長的餘韻，更有複雜度的酒款嗎…？」當時J-J rug曾稟報老闆他的觀察洞見，不過老闆並無大興趣作改變，因為當時J-J Krug的建議是因應英國人的口味建立一個特別的cuv?e(特選酒)，而剛好這也是J-J Krug喜歡的口感---希望以更好的葡萄 (可以表達葡萄酒土地特性的葡萄)，做出可存放更久，價值和價格都更高升的香檳，使得願意付高價且喜歡老Bordeaux、老Port的英國人歡喜暢飲。於是J-J Krug建立了KRUG香檳，飛快地英國市場建立起來了，慢慢地在澳洲等其它地方，逐漸地可以見到KRUG的身影…接著在世界各地嶄露頭角，鋒芒畢露」。接著，Rousseau女士在唇上輕霑了點紅茶說：「所以呀，可以說是因為J-J Krug的老闆的拒絕，促使J-J Krug立志建立起KRUG香檳！」
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精密的香檳調配工藝
遠道是客，Rousseau女士此時在印有 KRUG字樣的精巧香檳杯裡倒上最新除渣出廠的Grande Cuv?e (庫克陳年香檳)，這瓶剛完成六年窖藏的Grande Cuv?e是我喝過最年輕的，除了貫有的強勁、寬廣力道和均衡外，她那清新爽脆的酸度也讓人激賞，直接從酒窖端出即將上市的Grande Cuv?e也是這樣好喝…。Grande Cuv?e是KRUG最具典型的代表作，這家精緻小酒莊的建廠精神都瓶封在香檳裡了。
除了Grande Cuv?e之外，KRUG也釀造無年份的Champagne Ros?(粉紅香檳)。事實上，這兩款香檳最能體現KRUG世代相傳的香檳調配工藝 (L'Assemblage)。而這個工藝主要體現在兩個部份：第一、不管是Henri Krug(Krug前釀酒師，目前仍是釀酒高級顧問，半退休狀態)、Remy Krug (總裁，Henri的弟弟 )或Olivier Krug (第六代傳人)，他們的KRUG品味都是經過數十年的鍛鍊才形塑而成，才得以在每一個新年份的五十幾款不同產區來源的葡萄酒裡，在品嚐之後，決定哪些當年份的酒要放入混合裡，又哪些Vin de Reserve(窖藏年份老酒)要加入這個組合裡，才能調製出一款屬於KRUG風格的Grande Cuv?e 或是Ros?出來。第二、KRUG所儲存用以調配用的Vin de Reserve(窖藏無氣泡老酒)是香檳區最多的，約有一兩百萬瓶之譜 (存放在不鏽鋼桶裡)，許多產量更大的酒廠都只能望其項背
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總裁 |
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Remi Krug?Remi Krug,President-Driecteur General |
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KRUG Collection
GrandeCuvee和Rose要窖藏成熟約六年出廠，年份香檳則約八、九年(目前最多14年：1990年KRUG香檳)。不過，更加稀少的KRUG Collection (庫克原窖藏年份精選)，則是需要只少15年的窖藏才會做第一次出售。
KRUG Collection指的是永久窖藏在KRUG地下酒窖的年份香檳，在窖藏至少十五年之後，等香檳進入圓熟複雜的階段後才會出售。除了確認買家外，香檳不會外流市面。目前銷售1981年份KRUG Collection。主要在高級餐廳或高級葡萄酒店出售，在拍賣會上也可見到。然而，也有人直接寫信給Remy Krug，希望購買一瓶作節日紀念慶祝。在Henri Krug的40周年就職紀念時，Krug家族便端出KRUG Collection 1928和大家品嚐。
喜好音樂藝術的Rousseau女士繼續闡述：「如果將J-J Krug比為一位作曲家，那麼各塊香檳產地的葡萄就只是音符，他首先在腦袋裡冥想聽到一些優美的音樂，然後他再將這首曲子以音符的方式表現出來…在試過不同產地的葡萄釀製出來的不同基酒之後，他跟隨口感及嗅覺，輔以直覺調製出美味的香檳…」。這讓我想到十幾年前的老片「阿瑪迪斯」，片中瘋狂又滑稽的莫扎特總是天賦異稟地突然在腦袋裡感應到出塵的美麗音符，接著雙手就譜寫出令天神和魔鬼都要忌妒的神妙樂章。
事實上，當時Henri與Remy Krug的父親Paul Krug已經試過以不鏽鋼桶作酒精發酵手續，不過後來他發現這味道已經不是KRUG了，所以他才又轉回傳統的小型橡木桶發酵。這並不是說，以不鏽鋼桶發酵作不出好酒，而是KRUG所需要的風采，需以橡木桶才能發揮到極致。進一步想，以橡木桶釀製需要花費許多的人力和物力來做木桶的清潔、維修和保養，如果不是忠於KRUG的品味，其實是不必自找麻煩的。堅持品味，總是令人尊敬的！KRUG並沒有自己的橡木桶製造工廠，他們倒是有一間橡木桶修繕工房。
關於Grande Cuvee的釀酒方面，準確一點說，KRUG在葡萄進廠之後，會將葡萄放在不鏽鋼桶中四小時，讓不同的酵母與葡萄混合完整，然後一見到有酒精發酵的跡象，就將葡萄放入橡木桶中發酵約八到十天，然後讓酒汁持續待在橡木桶(205公升)中約三個月，然後才又將酒汁放回不銹鋼桶中，這回是小型的不鏽鋼桶，以分開不同的村莊以及地塊的無氣泡基酒。之後，則是進行調配勾兌的動作。基本上，Grande Cuvee是混合了六到十年不同年份的50種葡萄酒而成。接下來作緩慢的二次瓶中發酵，以獲得細緻的氣泡。
Madame Rousseau同時強調橡木桶的另一個作用是延緩熟成，因為短暫的橡木桶熟成會替酒引進一種微氧化(micro-oxygenation)的作用，使得在木桶裡熟成的酒慢性熟悉微氧的引進，反而比較不易過於早夭，所有KRUG的酒都是需要時間成熟的，這種微氧的作用就像打預防針般，使得KRUG的酒有了抗體，相較於其它香檳更適合久存演化，這就如同小火慢燉，火越小，速度越慢，味道更香純。KRUG並不要木桶裡的單寧，而是需要一個熟成的環境，而這個木桶環境裡也存有許多死酵母殘渣，經過這樣的浸泡，使得酒味更形豐美複雜。
終於見面了! KRUG 1990
總裁Remye Krug開完會後進來繼續接受Vintage雜誌的訪問。訪談同時，我們品嚐了當時尚未在台灣發表的1990年份香檳。這支香檳Remy Krug四月時已經在巴黎和倫敦發表過，而第六代傳人Olivier Krug也隨後在五月中旬於台灣和香港作亞洲首次發表上市。對筆者來說，KRUG 1990已經非常迷人，但有感於它在舌尖透露出的超強存放潛力，我覺得在它的整個成熟曲線來說，KRUG 90甚至有點年輕，但須知它已經在KRUG的酒窖裡陳放了十四年！當然如前所述，讀者們已經可以好整以暇細心享用。它的結構非常紮實，濃郁，潛力十足，優雅的花香、礦石、燻香、柑橘屬伴隨清新的酸度展佈，活力十足！Olivier Krug在五月的專訪當中表示下一個年份香檳則是1995年的佳釀，是一個高品質的經典年份。其後則是1996年份，是一個豐厚度與酸度都達到高標的特殊年份，或許要20年的窖藏才會與酒友見面！
1928 KRUG的神妙滋味
Remy Krug表示，對Grande Cuvee來說，到了出廠的第四、第五年，它會邁入第二個生命週期，整體風格沒有太大的變化，不過會顯得較有深度；至於年份香檳可能必須要等到十年之後，才有明顯的轉變，這時年份的特殊風格會稍稍削減，而原來較不明顯的風味，此時，會由背景躍至第一順位，比如烤杏仁、烤栗子等等。再更成熟一點，我們會發現酒香裡藏有糖漬水果的氣味，如無花果，李子乾之類，勁道更強烈；繼續往後發展，30、40 年之後，我們便可期待類似香菇、蕈類的迷人香氣。不過，一般人要試到這樣老的Krug著實不易，而Remy Krug就指出他記憶中的1971年Krug Collection就隱藏著這樣令人著迷的老酒風味，且71年所發散出的是像雞油蕈菇(chanterelle)這樣美味的菇類；繼之---蜂蜜、杏桃醬的甜美也會隨之滲透而出；如1928年就具有非凡的蜂蜜、杏桃、蜂膠、菸草韻味，Remy Krug手舞足蹈地說：「28年的KRUG與Sauterne區的CHATEAU d'YQUEM具有神奇的相似度，不過是不甜的、不帶氣泡的d'YQUEM！真是神奇美妙呀!」，Remy Krug繼續說明這樣的神妙美味也只有在Krug的年份香檳裡才可尋獲的。
We want KRUG Rose!
Remy Krug的聲音宏亮高昂，邊替我們斟酒邊道：「KRUG的重心總是在Grande Cuv?e，年份香檳和Ros?粉紅香檳總是特出的例外。當我在1965年正式進入酒廠工作時，我時常到處旅行，許多人告訴我：『我很喜歡Grande Cuv?e，不過為何您不釀製Ros?呢，千萬不要讓我因為找不到KRUG Rose而變心了，變得無法百分百對KRUG忠誠了!』」。
這時，Remy向他的哥哥Henri Krug提起釀製Ros?香檳的計畫，Henri回應說：「ok, BUT!…」一個小小的ok，但是這個但書卻是大大地…當時Henri Krug是有把握釀出一款高品質Ros?香檳的，不過要釀出一款具有KRUG血統印記的Rose，一款與眾不同的粉紅香檳，卻是相當不易的。他們兄弟倆在四、五年的討論和研究之後，終於有一天，Henri Krug說：「讓我們放手去作吧！」，KRUG Rose於焉誕生，是一款具有豐富覆盆子、肉桂、香料、香桲(Coing，形狀半似洋梨半似木瓜)香氣的優雅香檳，堅實且純雅，讓許多同行也大吃一驚！與龍蝦或螃蟹的料理搭配非常對味，和亞洲帶香料的菜色聯姻也登對。Remy Krug補充說：「粉紅香檳非常不容易釀得好，不是登峰造極就是會墜入俗艷的低俗氣裡！」
周圍有矮牆及村屋圍繞，東及東南向位，形成一特殊微氣候。他們覺得這塊地應該大有可為，於是購入這塊地。Mesnil園中有許多老藤，不過也夾雜了一些KRUG拔除後新種的較年輕樹藤。KRUG花了八年時間整地之後，才在1979年釀出第一瓶Clos du Mesnile，而在1986年第一次上市。這塊地種植100 %的Chardonnay(夏多內白葡萄)，口感純淨，豐厚堅實卻細緻均衡，保有良好的清新口感，具有花香、礦物質、橙皮…等等香氣。總之，氣質獨特卻也帶有KRUG的明顯風格印記。這塊已經聞名300年的葡萄園，在新主人KRUG家族的精心打造之下，又邁向另一個品質的高峰。
KRUG in picnic!
談到酒搭餐，Remy Krug強調一定要避免四大搭餐的死敵，以免壞了Krug與餐的搭配：第一、過苦的食物。二、過酸的食物。三、酒精佐料過多的食物。四、過冰的食物。只要避免這四個陷阱，Remy要大家盡量放開心胸去試！「呀！對了，KRUG與香料的食物搭配也有絕佳效果產生！比如說巴基斯坦的香料羊肉泥！」Remy抿抿嘴上的醬汁，興奮地說著。
It was almost the end of April, with the weather bright and warm, when I drove to the legendary champagne house of Krug.I circled the north side of Reims twice before finding the narrow Rue Coquebert which led to the entrance. The gate was half-open, with a coppery sign saying "Krug" on top. So this was the Krug style, I thought - famous but modest.
I was welcomed by Krug's public relations manager, Madame Pascale Rousseau, smartly dressed in a matching outfit and speaking in soft, welcoming tones.
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After taking my seat and being served a cup of tea, I stirred in the sugar and started the conversation casually with a few general queries. What was Krug's essential style? How did it originate, and what inspired it - the vineyard or the cellar I asked Madame Rousseau (who of course shares her surname with the great18th century philosopher) my questions. She lifted an eyebrow, regarded me for a moment, then started to tell me the history of Krug.
The birth of KRUG
"At Krug, we strive to maintain the taste, a taste that is unique to Kug.? The founder of Krug, Johann-Joseph Krug, a man of German descent, started the firm in 1834. Prior to setting up Krug he was working for another famous champagne house, Jacquesson. Unlike his competitors, however, he paid close attention to the comments made by British customers regarding champagne. |
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Grande Cuvee的須對有時可用上50種不一樣葡萄酒。(Photo : KRUG 提供)
Grande Cuvee blending needs sometimes 50kinds of wines.(Photo : KRUG 提供) |
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At that time people in Britain were interested in old Bordeaux and old Port wines because of their oxidized nutty aroma and complex taste.So J-J often heard people saying that they liked Jacquesson champagne, which was crisp, elegant and smooth, but they wanted a concentrated, longer lasting and complex-tasting champagne. J-J demonstrated his foresight by creating a cuvee that could age well and was sufficiently complex for the British market, and interestingly this style of champagne was J-J's favorite too. He felt that by selecting better quality grapes (which expressed the terroir) he could produce champagnes that aged well, were complex, and would satisfy people who were spending significant amounts of money on old Bordeaux and old vintage Port. Unfortunately his boss was not keen on changing the status-quo. So J-J left Jacquesson and set up his own champagne house, Krug. Almost immediately he started receiving rave reviews from customers in Britain, and then slowly from Australian customers
Immaculate champagne blending skills
It was at this point that Madame Rousseau served me with the recently disgorged Grande Cuveee champagne in the distinctive champagne glass designed specially for Krug. This champagne had been in the cellar for six years yet was the youngest Krug I had ever tasted. With its usual richness, strength and harmony, but also crispness, it was difficult to imagine that such a champagne, coming directly from the cellar, could be this magnificent. Grande Cuveee has always represented what Krug has stood for over the years, and in bottling it Krug put its heart and soul into it.
Besides Grande Cuveee, Krug also makes non-vintage Rose. In fact, these two champagnes represent the art of l'assemblage which has been passed on in Krug's family from generation to generation. The art of l'assemblage consists of two things: Firstly, the taste of Krug. From Henri Krug (Krug's ex-blender, currently senior consultant to Krug and semi-retired), Remy Krug (chairman of Krug and Henri's brother) to Olivier Krug (of the Krug family's sixth generation), they acquired their taste through many years of experience. This has enabled them to create blends which are distinctively Krug. Grande Cuveee and Rose are blends of wines made from over 50 different vineyards each year and from vin de reserve (base wine kept back from previous years). Secondly: Krug's reserve wine. Krug has the most reserve wine in all of Champagne, and it has been estimated that there are over one millions bottles of reserve wine stored in the stainless tanks of Krug's cellars. Even the bigger production champagne houses do not have that much reserve wine.
KRUG Collection
Grande Cuveee and Rose are cellared for six years or more before being released to the public. The vintage champagnes are cellared longer, usually 8 or 9 years, the record being 14 years (1990 Krug). But in addition there is the rare Krug Collection, which is only released after being cellared for a minimum of 15 years.
Krug Collection is the vintage champagne made specially to age in Krug's cellars for a prolonged period. It is only released to the public after 15 years, by which time the champagne has become smooth and complex. They sell Krug Collection only to buyers and not direct to the public.The most recently Krug Collection released was 1981 and was only available at some exceptional restaurants, top-rank wine shops and wine auctions.There were people writing directly to Remy Krug hoping he could spare one bottle for some special occasion. At Henri Krug's 40th anniversary at the helm of Krug, the family served Krug 1928 to their guests.
Rousseau continued "If J-J Krug is a composer, then wines from different vineyards are his music. A composer would usually create music in his head first, and then expresses that music though written notes. Wines from different vineyards are thus like musical notes - after he tastes them and understands them, he creates a blend that is simultaneously magical and overwhelming." This reminded me of the movie Amadeus, in which a crazy but inspired Mozart had the divine gift of melody, and with his hands created music that was envied by both God and the Devil.
Philosophy of Barrique fermentation
In fact, Henri and Remy KrugKrug is the only Champagne house that still uses the barrique (a small oak barrel) for fermenting its base wine. "For tradition" I asked. Madame Rousseau replied "It isn't for the sake of tradition, but for the sake of creating the ideal taste of champagne." I always admire people with that philosophy, and I think that it was that focused approach to wine-making which made Krug what it is today. I suddenly understood that the question of tradition wasn't appropriate in the circumstances. 's father Paul did try to ferment base wines in stainless tanks, but the result wasn't satisfactory, so they went back to fermenting them in barrique. It was not that they could not make a good base wine out of a stainless tank, but that in order to create Krug's taste, only barriques would do. But using barrique involves extra manpower to maintain the necessary condition and hygiene, and if it wasn't for keeping the Krug taste, they wuldn't have thought it worthwhile to go to all the trouble. It is always impressive to see someone sticking fast to their beliefs. Krug does not have its own coopery, but nevertheless has a suitable place for repairing barrique.
As regards Grand Cuvee, this champagne was actually made in the following manner. After the arrival of the harvested grapes, the winemaker put them in a stainless tank and left them for 4 hours, thus giving the grape an opportunity to mix with the yeasts. When the first sign of fermentation appeared, he moved the grapes into the barrique and let them ferment for 8 to 10 days. Then he left the liquid in the barrique for another 3 months, and after that moved the liquid (which was now the base wine) out of barrique into smaller stainless tanks. The small stainless tanks were used to store base wine made from different villages and different vineyards. Basically, Grande Cuveee was a blend of 50 wines aged between 6 and 10 years. After blending, wines were bottled and prepared for their second fermentation (to ensure smooth bubbles).
Madame Rousseau emphasized that the other function of barrique was to delay maturation, because a short barrique maturation caused a chemical reaction called micro-oxygenation, in which wine built up resistance to oxidation while going through a slight oxidation process itself. This chemical development was beneficial to the process because all Krug's champagne needed time to mature. In other words, this chemical process was like creating an antibiotic in champagne against oxidation, and in comparison to other champagnes Krug is indeed more suitable for ageing. It was like slow cooking - the smaller the fire and the slower the speed, the richer the taste. It was not the intention to absorb tannin from the barrique but to create an environment suitable for maturation. Also, with an extensive period of contact with the sur lie (death yeasts) wines would eventually become richer and more complex. |
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庫克香檳終年12度恆溫的地下酒窖
Krug's underground cellar, with a constant temperature of 12 celsius. |
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Finally! KRUG 1990
Remy Krug, the chairman of Krug, arrived from his meeting and joined us. While we were chatting, he offered me the 1990 Vintage champagne, which at that time has not been released to the public in Taiwan. This wine had its public appearance in April this year in London and Paris. Mr. Oliver Krug was also scheduled to go to Asia for the release of Krug Vintage 1990. To me personally, Krug 1990 was very seductive and had amazing potential for ageing. In the life span of champagne, Krug 1990 was definitely in its youth stage, but in fact it had already been in the cellar for 14 years! This champagne was rich and structured, with elegant floral, mineral, smoky and citrus aromas accompanying the crispiness. Olivier Krug said at an interview in May that the next release of vintage Krug would be he 1995, and he regarded it as a classic year. 1996, another classic year, required patience because it would only be released after being cellared for 20 years.
The magic of 1928 Krug
Remy Krug said that 4 to 5 years after release, Grande Cuveee entered the second phase of the wine cycle. There was no noticeable change in the style of the champagne, but there was additional depth to the taste. For vintage champagne it would take 10 years or more to see a major change. At this stage the initial dominant taste had fully established itself, and secondary aromas such as roasted almond and chestnut now became more prominent. If you let it evolve for a few more years you would get aromas such as dried figs and plum. 40 years after release you might get the irresistible smell of mushrooms too, but the opportunity to taste such old vintage Krug was rare. Remy Krug recalled that his 1971 vintage champagne had the wonderful aroma of chanterelle. Ageing even further, aromas such as honey and almond sauce would appear. 1928 Krug had the aroma of honey, almond, propolis and tobacco. Remy Krug said with delight that his 1928 Krug had a similar taste to Chateau d＊yquem, except there was no sweetness and it had bubbles. Spectacular, he added!! Remy Krug added that you could only find these kinds of sensation in Vintage Krug.
We want KRUG Rose!
As time passed, Remy Krug became more excited and his voice got louder. He told me while pouring for us that Krug's main focus had always been on the Grande Cuveee; vintage and Rose were a side-line. He started to travel extensively in 1965, and many customers used to tell him that they liked Krug's Grande Cuveee, but because there was no Krug Rose they had to buy Rose from elsewhere, so they couldn't be 100% loyal to Krug.
So Remy proposed making Krug Rose to his brother Henri. Henri replied "OK, but ...". It was this "but" which took longer than expected to overcome. The challenge implied in this "but" was to make a Rose that was distinctively Krug. At that time Henri was able to make high quality Rose, but making Rose with the Krug imprint was not easy. After 4 to 5 years of experiment and research, finally Henri Krug acquiesced and agreed to go ahead with the making of Krug Rose. Krug Rose had fine aromas of raspberry, cinnamon, spice and Coing, elegant but explosive in taste. The introduction of Krug Rose certainly shocked the champagne industry. Krug Rose matched well with lobster and crab cuisines, as well as spicy Asian ones. Remy Krug added that it was not easy to make good Rose; you either achieved great success or lost spectacularly in a sea of vulgarity.
The legend of Mesnil
During lunch, Remy Krug and I talked about his Blanc de Blanc Clos du Mesnil, vintage single-vineyard champagne. This champagne was by far the most prestigious, and also most expensive, champagne in the Krug family, while at the same time being also the newest wine in Krug. Remy said that it was not his intention to make Clos du Mesnil the best quality champagne in Krug's range of wines, but he did intend it to be different in terms of its taste and its scarcity. In fact, Remy's great grandfather had already started purchasing vineyards in the Clos du Mesnil and making wine from this stretch of land. In 1971 the Krug family bought this site with the intention of increasing the production of Grande Cuveee and Rose, but after careful terroir analysis, they discovered something special about the land. The vineyard was at the centre of the village, and there were fences and houses around it; also the slope of the vineyard was east and south-east facing, and these factors created special micro-climates for the vines.When Krug bought this land there were plenty of old vines, but also some new vines, in the vineyard. It took 8 years to complete the task of re-constructing the vineyard. In 1979 Krug bottled the first Clos de Mesnil and released it to the public in 1986. There was only Chardonnay planted in this vineyard. This champagne was smooth, rich and dense, yet wonderfully balanced, and it had the aroma of floral, mineral and lime-peel - and of course, Krug's unique taste. This land, which has been famous for over 300 years, has now, under the care of Krug, reached new heights of success.
KRUG for a picnic!
Talking about matching food and wine, Remy Krug said that there were four things that destroyed Krug's taste: foods that were too bitter, with too much acidity or too much alcohol, and served too cold. Remy felt that as long as the foods were not in one of the above categories, he encouraged people to try their wine with everything. Remy said that Krug matched well with spicy food, for example minced mutton with Palestinian spices. He said this with considerable excitement, wiping sauce off his mouth as he spoke.
Remy did not believe that his Krug only matched well with the main dish. He said that his whole range of champagnes, if carefully considered, matched well with everything from appetizers, hor d'oeurvres, main courses and even desserts. He wanted people to drink Krug when talking about their families, reminiscing about their happy moments, or just simply having a good time. In other words, treat Krug as a part of life!
Remy said "I have a friend who lives in Britain - he likes to drink Krug while playing golf and going on a picnic. I have another friend living in France - he likes to drink Krug while watching world cup soccer and enjoys it with Margaux. To my mind these are great moments to enjoy Krug! Don't treat Krug like some kind of holy stuff to be left in some shrine.? I don't like to see people drink Krug in specially constructed environments." I guess most people in France would find his philosophy amusing.
So, when you are going to Krug up? And who are you going to Krug up with?
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