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此行之前，我曾兩次去往雲南麗江；我流連於大研古城、流連於玉龍雪山，流連於麗江這座悠閒美麗的城市。然而我從未設想過，躺在戶外溫水按摩池裏，靜靜地與玉龍雪山遙相對視，會有什麼樣的感受？
直到我第3次來到麗江古城，住進位於束河古鎮、雪山腳下的「Banyan Tree麗江悅榕莊」。因為悅榕莊，我才選擇雲南作為蜜月地點。
豪華莊園 扮莊主
悅榕莊之名對富豪們並不陌生，它總是選址在亞洲各地風景秀美、優雅浪漫、與世隔絕的好地方。
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1994年，新加坡悅榕集團將第1家悅榕莊設在普吉島；去年，首次在中國推出了仁安悅榕莊（位於雲南與西藏交界處，即香格里拉）；今年，又在古城麗江開出第19間悅榕莊。
秋陽正好，海拔2,000米的度假村顯得格外靜謐安詳。服務生端來熱騰騰的當地薑茶，輕微高原反應很快緩解。
我們入住的是花園別墅。踏進古色木門，庭院深深，仿佛闖入納西族王國的某座豪華莊園；他當起離群索居的現代莊主，我則是那萬千崇愛于一身的女主人。整個建築朝東向北，牆面以當地納西灰磚砌成，臺階、裝飾物等採用五彩石，單層別墅的尖頂則採用當地特有建材，傳統紅瓦屋頂乃取自當地的磚窯，連彎屋頂、翹簷角亦是納西民居的式樣。寬敞的庭院裏，還包括獨享的一座室外溫水按摩池。
安頓停當後，我躺在露天的按摩浴池裏洗一洗周身的疲憊，正是黃昏日落時分，海拔5,600米的玉龍雪山在夕陽的餘輝下莊嚴肅穆，終年積雪不化的山頂被映襯得一片金黃。藍天、白雲、雪山，四周安靜得能夠聽見和風拂過樹葉的聲音。與雪山對視，我忘卻塵世，內心一片寧靜。
悅榕莊擁有5星級飯店的全套設施。這兒的房間佈局和設施不算特殊豪華，卻最為人性化、最有家的感覺。我們選擇了一張Queen size雙人床，挑選了最為柔軟的枕頭。躺在床上，面對的不是電視螢幕，又是落地窗外的雪山全貌。
浪漫婚禮 終生回憶
美美睡上一宿後，我趁早參觀整個度假村。麗江悅榕莊位於高山所圍繞的風水寶地，山水之間充滿靈氣；整個度假村以玉龍雪山為中心，每間住房都可欣賞到雪山景色。數千平方米的庭園中，泉水潺潺、楊柳依依；掛在樹枝上的一串串紅色燈籠，讓人想起大研古城熱鬧熙攘的夜晚。
與各地的悅榕莊一樣，這裏也承襲「入境隨俗」的設計理念，融合了當地環境人文。55棟別墅各自獨立（包括1棟總統別墅）。實際房價約在每晚500~1,000美元，常常客滿。
有人要給Banyan Tree一個形容詞，是頂級？還是奢華？兩者皆非。創辦人何光平早就給了答案：「浪漫」。他深信，旅遊是無關目的地的浪漫體驗。
在麗江悅榕莊，還有一套專為新婚夫婦設計的浪漫方案「永結同心」。貴客從天涯彼端來到麗江，在度假村裏舉行中國傳統式婚禮；坐花轎、掀蓋頭、入洞房，見證兩人浪漫愛情。真是難得的經驗，肯定一輩子都會回憶。
萬千寵愛．悅榕Spa |
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早期Banyan Tree還未很出名的時候，「悅榕Spa」品牌已屢獲國際榮譽。如果說上海Westin酒店內的悅榕Spa為都市人提供了一處心靈庇護所，那麼麗江的悅榕Spa則更讓人覺得身臨仙境。
悅榕Spa融彙中國陰陽五行及亞洲傳統精華，以「金、木、水、火、土」定義療程內容。金，代表滌清蕩濁、固本培元，要養精蓄銳以備過冬之需；木表徵為生長發育、新陳代謝；水表徵休憩和靜謐；火在五行之中能量最強，使用陰可為之祛熱；土則代表最佳平衡狀態，調節迴圈，為五行之樞紐。有以草藥浴為主的「皇家spa」、用當地紅米潤膚的「雲南舒解」、排毒通氣的「熱桂石spa」等近10個套系，此外還有不同手足護理護理療程等。
我選擇了有代表性的「熱桂石療程」，120分鐘。納西族泉療師先為我周身塗上黑芝麻油，再手持滾燙的熱桂石進行按摩。泉療師的手勢十分靈巧，滾燙的熱桂石在身體上任意遊走。石頭從未於手上滑落，而所散發的熱量舒活了筋骨，在穴道釋放出暖氣和壓力，其能量有利於「氣」的緩緩流通，並排除體內毒素。
我對這刻滿吉祥圖案和象形文字的桂石充滿興趣。據說這種古老的療法早已記載於一本西藏醫藥經典集《桂石》內。這些軟桂石取自清澈的河流，再由寺廟僧侶雕上藏傳佛教的神聖圖案。 |
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幾天的勞頓都交給了溫暖而可信賴的雙手，呼吸也慢慢變得順暢，進入半夢半醒的狀態，耳邊仿佛響起來自遠山輕盈而悠遠的誦經聲，這是泉療師用鈴聲喚醒我。沐浴更衣後，再品一杯高山茶，才算是結束整個美妙的Spa療程。
最長球道 最高心境
「玉龍雪山高爾夫俱樂部」就座落在東麓甘海子，風景如畫，擁有世界上最長的球道。麗江悅榕莊不少住客都是這裏的會員。
車程不到30分鐘，就來到這座海拔3,100米的高原球場，由名設計師Neil Haworth（尼爾．哈沃斯）操刀。球車在邐迤山坡上行駛。整個球場設計佈局精巧，前9洞與後9洞依自然山水地貌不同，風格迥異。
因為海拔高、空氣稀薄，這裏的地心引力特別弱；據此特別設計的18洞、72桿、8,548碼球道長度，已被證實為一項世界記錄。
住在Banyan Tree的美籍客人Jack，剛剛在第9洞打出絕妙一桿。他眯縫著眼眺望遠方的黃色小旗，對我說：「征服這個球場的滋味，就和我以前攀上高山頂峰一模一樣！」
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www.BanyanTree.com
Before this trip, I had been to Lijiang, in China’s Yunnan province twice. I fell in love with the ancient town of Dayan, the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, and the beautiful city, Lijiang. However, I had never imagined the feeling of appreciating the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain from a distance while relaxing in an outdoor heated jacuzzi.
I fulfilled my dream when I came to Lijiang the third time. This time I chose to stay in the Lijiang Banyan Tree Resort, which is located in the ancient town of Shuhe, at the foot of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. I chose Yunnan as my honeymoon destination because of the Banyan Tree.
Being the Owner of the Luxurious Estate
Among the rich, the name “Banyan Tree” is quite familiar, because it always chooses locations in Asia with beautiful, romantic scenery as its location. In 1994, the Singaporean Banyan Tree Group set its first Banyan Tree Resort on Thailand’s Phuket Island. Last year, the Banyan Tree opened the Ringha Banyan Tree Resort, their first resort in China. It is located in Shangri-La, on the border of Yunnan and Tibet. This year, the 19th Banyan Tree resort was established in the ancient town of Lijiang.
The weather in autumn is comfortable and the resort, which is 2,000 meters above sea level, is very quiet and serene.
We stayed in the garden villa. When we stepped in through the old-world wooden gate, and saw the |
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beautiful yard, we felt like we were entering a luxurious estate belonging to the Shaikh (chieftain) of the Naxi nationality. He was the owner of this estate, and I was the luckiest hostess for I possessed all the love bestowed by this man. All the buildings face east and north. The walls were built using local Naxi gray bricks. The steps and attending ornamentation are decorated with colorful stones. The spires of the villas used local material; the red tile roofs came from local brick kilns; even the curved roofs and eaves were designed according to the style of Naxi traditional houses. In the capacious garden, there is also an outdoor heated jacuzzi.
After check-in, I decided to relax in the Jacuzzi. It was almost evening, and the 5,600-meter-high Jade Dragon Snow Mountain looked solemn and respectful. |
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The snow capped mountain turned golden under the setting sun. The blue sky, the white clouds, and the snow mountain — it was so quiet around that I could hear the sound of the wind rustling in the leaves. Watching the snowy mountain, I almost forgot about the world, the only thing I could feel was the serenity in my heart.
The Banyan Tree Resort was established according to five-star-hotel standards. Although the decorations and facilities are not very luxurious, it is very comfortable, and it gives one the feeling of being at home. We chose a queen-size double bed and the softest pillows. Lying in bed, the thing in front of us was not a TV screen; instead, it was the view of the snowy mountain outside the French window.
Romantic Wedding, Memories Forever
After a night of sweet dreams, I woke up early and had a look around the whole resort. The Banyan Tree Resort is located in a idyllic place, ringed with mountains, and the sky is full of nimbus clouds. The focal point of the resort is the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain; therefore, each room in the resort has a view of the mountain. In the thousands of square meter garden, we could find babbling streams, a dense grove of willow trees, and strings of red lanterns hanging on the branches, which reminded me of the busy and bustling night scene in Dayan.
Similar to other Banyan Tree Resorts, the Lijiang Banyan Tree Resort adopts the “when in Rome, do as the Romans do” approach, fitting well into the surroundings. There are 55 free-standing villas (including one Presidential Villa). Room rates run from around US$500 to US$1,000 a night and the resort is always fully booked.
If someone wanted to describe Banyan Tree by using only one word, would it be first-class or luxurious? Neither would be the proper answer. The founder, He Guangping has already proposed the answer, which is “romantic.” He believes that tourism should be a romantic experience, irrespective of the destination.
The Lijiang Banyan Tree Resort has prepared a special romantic package for newlyweds, which is called “Together Love Forever.” Honored guests come to Lijiang, and the couple has a traditional Chinese wedding in the resort: sitting in the sedan chair, lifting the bridal veil and entering the bridal chamber to consummate their love. The experience is so precious that it will be remembered forever by the couple.
Wonderful Feelings, All From Banyan Tree Spa
Before Banyan Tree Resorts became famous, Banyan Tree Spas had already won many international honors. If the Banyan Tree Spa in the Shanghai Westin Hotel provides a spiritual refuge for urbanites, the Lijiang Banyan Tree Spa then gives the sensation of being in a wonderland.
The Lijiang Banyan Tree Spa combines the Chinese motifs of Yin Yang and the Five Elements with the traditional Asian essence, defining the Spa in terms of Gold, Wood, Water, Fire, and Earth. Gold represents purification, where the energies are cleansed and consolidated for the impending Winter. Wood represents growth and Spring; in the Yin Yang duality, it also regenerates and stimulates growth. Water is meditative, gentle and refreshing. Fire has the strongest power among the Five, and it symbolizes energy. Fire counters excessive body heat. Earth, in the Yin Yang duality, sits in the center, nourishing the Elements. It regulates and promotes the even distribution of energy through the body. In the Banyan Tree Spa, you can find more than ten different treatments, including the “Royal Banyan,” which uses herbal medicine; the “Yunnan Bounty,” which uses indigenous red rice; and “Guishi Hot Stones,” which cleanses the body’s toxins. Additionally, there are also treatments specifically for the hands and feet.
I chose the emblematic “Guishi Hot Stones” which lasted for 120 minutes. The Naxi masseuse first applied black sesame oil on my body, and then used hot Guishi stones to perform the massage. She dexterously massaged my body, without dropping the stones. The hot stones stretched my bones and muscles, and the warmth and pressure opened my energy pathways. Their powers are beneficial for smoother flow of one’s qi and the discharge of toxins.
I am very interested in Guishi stones, which are covered with auspicious illustrations and hieroglyphs. It is said that this ancient therapy was recorded in a Tibetan medical text, the “Guishi.” The Guishi stones come from pristine rivers, and monks sculpt holy pictures on them.
My tiredness dissolved through the massage of that pair of reliable and warm hands. My breathing relaxed, and I was just about to fall asleep when I heard the sound of monks chanting in the distance, but it was the sound of the alarm clock that my masseuse used to wake me up. The wonderful treatment didn’t end until I finished a cup of mountain tea after bathing and changing clothes.
The Longest Golf Course, the Greatest Ambition
The Jade Dragon Snow Mountain Golf Club is located in the east, at the foot of the mountain, near the Dry Sea. It has a pretty landscape and is the longest golf course in the world. Many guests of the Banyan Tree Resort are members of the club.
It takes less than 30 minutes to drive from the resort to the golf course, which is 3,100 meters above sea level. The golf course was designed by the famous designer Neil Haworth. The overall design and layout are very ingenious. The first nine holes differ greatly from the last nine holes, due to the various landforms and surroundings.
The gold course is seated at a high altitude, where the air is thin, and the gravity is particularly weak. Therefore, the 18-hole, 72- stroke, 8,548-yard course has set a world record.
An American guest Jack, who’s staying at the Banyan Tree Resort, has just had an excellent stroke on the ninth hole. He looks onto the distant yellow flag and remarks that the feeling he had conquering the golf course was just the same as the feeling he had when climbing the mountain. (Translation by 李琴 Amy LI) |
