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我們從Lounge起身走向座位，經過大片玻璃窗時，望向腳底下車水馬龍的哥倫布圓環以及依舊滿是綠意的中央公園 ，一種「位在世界中心」的快意油然而生。就料理來講這點也不會錯，畢竟這裡Per Se，是Thomas Keller主持的餐廳，美式料理的頂點。
主廚Jonathan Bennon知道我們的來意，已預先準備了Chef’s Table（主廚桌）的套餐，點菜詳情毋庸我們費心。
幾道Thomas Keller的著名Canape（小菜）首先端上，像演出前的序曲抓緊觀眾的注意，並為身份「正名」。 |
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Moulard鴨肝醬，糖煮西洋梨，糖晶洋梨片與巴薩米克醋濃縮醬汁
“TERRINE” OF MOULARD DUCK “FOIE GRAS”, Bartlett Pear Marmalade, Frisee Lettuce, Crystallized Pear “Chip,” Balsamic Glaze and Toasted “Brioche”
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Gruyere Cheese Gougeres是溫熱且注入Gruyere乳酪的小泡芙，乳香與口感恰如薰風拂面。
鮭魚韃靼Cornet（甜筒）讓人精神一振，鮭魚肉滑潤帶著橄欖油與蝦夷蔥香氣，整支甜筒入口才發現味道清楚、層層遞進，正納悶這兩指間的小點似乎不足以承載這麼多時
，我又咂了咂嘴才曉得鮭魚下還隱藏著Creme Fraiche（蕃茄鮮奶油），兩者一齊被收攏在酥薄甜脆的餅殼裡。 |
一粒沙就足以讓我們窺看Thomas Keller的風格世界。畢竟那以小見大、涓滴而成細流、最後沛然莫之能禦的衝擊，正是其料理的特徵。
侍者端上我們期待已久的「魚子醬白花椰菜奶酪」。今天用的是俄羅斯Sevruga魚子醬，在瓷碗裡呈飽滿的橢圓形，平躺在乳白色的奶酪上。
上等裏海魚子醬以及透著白花椰菜清新的凝脂固然出色，但真正將絕佳食材與精細廚藝結合、並提高到另一層次的，卻在於你拿貝殼製湯匙將他們同時送入口中那一刻
；魚子醬激昂的「鮮」與「鹹」味迸發至失控邊緣，而被奶酪收束的柔滑貼順。在Thomas Keller的美食世界裡，這菜就像自由女神之於紐約市，乃是不可撼動的地標。
回想起來，緊接著幾道菜原來是迎賓儀式，主廚為當天餐廳裡唯一的亞洲客人準備的：大西洋藍鮪魚大腹刺身，撒上夏威夷海鹽配滷煮鴻喜菇 ；新鮮貝柱讓你佐糖漬橘皮享用；以清高湯川燙的明蝦，圍繞一圈韓式泡菜醬汁。該怎麼吃？當然是面前這副黑檀木筷最順手。
我向侍酒師打趣道:「你該不會要我用吟釀來搭配吧?」精緻的日本酒如今攻佔西方頂尖餐廳，在紐約尤其明顯。 酒單裡如果沒有一、兩支「八海山」或是「萬壽」，就像忘記用醬油或芝麻調味擺盤一樣落伍。這些菜是Fusion嗎？大概算吧。但Per Se將亞洲元素使用的敬謹節制，以食材為中心，「提味」而不「搶味」。
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接下來：一隻端坐銀杯裡的「白煮蛋」，中間豎立著透明馬菱薯片。彎月型瓷盤裡盛著金黃色的 Scrambled Egg（炒雞蛋），還附一碟Hash Brown（薯餅）。 我的頭一個念頭是:「哇，他們怎知道我沒吃早點就來了呢？」
原來蛋殼裡是白松露蒸蛋，再覆上充滿黑松露碎的小牛肉高湯。金黃色炒蛋底下，亦是一層細碎的黑松露泥。
至於Hash Brown其實是現烤的Brioche（牛油麵包），看來Thomas Keller來到曼哈坦後，Woody Allen（伍迪．艾倫）式的仿諷運用的更加得心應手。 |
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(左)炭烤牛腹排，(中)炭烤乾式熟成頂級肋眼，(右)48小時燉煮美國”和牛”牛腩，佐焗烤馬菱薯千層派，黑色喇叭菇與青豆， |
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Grill Hangar steak, dry-aged rib eye and Forty-Eight Hour braised “Wagyu” Beef Brisket, Russet Potato “Gratin，” Black Trumpet Mushroom “Duxelles,” Romano Beans and “Sauce Bordelaise” |
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生鮮貝柱佐糖漬橙皮絲與大黃 |
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Fresh scallops will orange comfie and Rhubarts |
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香草高湯凍與乳鴿凍裹肥肝，搭配陳120年巴薩米克醋 |
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Herbal stock jelly and pigeon meat stock Jelly with 120-year old balsamic vinegar. |
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甜奶油泡煮加拿大新思科夏野生龍蝦兩吃之二: 龍蝦尾佐胡蘿蔔醬汁 |
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Sweet Butter Poached Nova Scotia Lobster Claws, Lobster Tail with Carrot Sause. |
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大西洋藍鮪大腹刺身，配夏威夷海鹽與香菇汁 |
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Blue Fin Tuna Toro Sashimi with Hawaiian Sea Salt and Shitake Mushroom Jus |
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川燙明蝦與韓式泡菜凝露 |
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Poached Shrimp with Kimchi Sauce |
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我想，Thomas Keller其實是一位深諳「邊際效應遞減法則」的高手。多數餐廳在供餐中，為了喚起顧客漸趨飽和、疲倦的味蕾
，會在套餐中段提高菜色複雜性（調味、食材或烹調）。而他則反其道而行，不停變換著5至10道份量迷你的菜肴；而在減去不必要味道的同時，表現出他心目中最核心的滋味。
Per Se的海鮮菜肴尤其如此，例如加拿大Nova Scotia（新斯科夏）省的龍蝦兩吃：滾水浸泡至3分熟便取出蝦螫與蝦肉，先經過冷藏，再靜置於室溫下達到熱平衡
；最後浸泡在稀釋、乳化過的無鹽奶油裡，以烤箱的低溫緩緩熟透它們。我享用了渾圓飽滿的螫肉，被置於微辣的白蘿蔔薄片上，蘸著薑汁椰奶食用。
這Nova Scotia龍蝦無論肉質之細緻、口感之飽滿、滋味之鮮與甜，彷佛幾隻緬因州龍蝦同時入口，那差別就像相差兩個世代以上的數位相機所具有的解析能力，一般清楚明白。 |
上好龍蝦經過如此繁複處理之後，反而呈現出最真實的滋味。廚師只加進奶油充實它，用薑汁的辛香與椰奶甜潤解放它，由此便開啟品嚐者的想像 ，也令人思索溫柔之必要、緩慢之必要、一點點烹煮與調味之必要、廚師斷不可掩蓋食材真我之必要…。
但這不代表Per Se無法呈現令人目炫神馳的豪華料理。兩道菜之前，James先到我們桌邊展示在一只玻璃罐中，用整隻乳鴿緊緊裹住、浸在鴿肉高湯凍裡的鴨肝，鴿肉與肥肝得經過這樣保存1週入味。 上桌前，再以微溫的高湯慢慢沖刷，直到最外層僅留2 cm的高湯凍，才切片盛盤。肥美的鴨肝、細緻的鴿肉、加上略帶胡椒辛香氣的湯凍，組合成一只美麗的同心圓在盤中。
我心想這很可能是我所吃過最繁複的鴨肝料理。還沒完！侍者緊接著端上一只托盤，上面擺著來自夏威夷、法國、英國、美國本土以及日本等地、約10種不同的海鹽與岩鹽 ，供我們與鴨肝搭配。 |
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最後是兩位侍者合力（一位繪盤、另一位小心翼翼護著瓶子），在我盤中點上3滴陳年120年的義大利巴薩米克醋。
你稍微運用一點想像力，就會發現這些肥肝、鹽、醋的組合與製備，背後有數不盡人力、時間與心血的累積，其意志之強大令我頭皮發麻，而味道之美好亦然。 |
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炙烤小章魚，蕃紅花蒜味醬與Per Se版普羅旺斯燉什蔬
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| Grilled Baby Octopus with Saffron Aioli and Per Se “Ratatouille” |
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甜奶油泡煮加拿大新思科夏野生龍蝦兩吃之二: 蝦螫與辣味燉蘿蔔佐薑汁椰奶，青江菜，薑末脆丁與芫荽 |
Sweet Butter Poached Nova Scotia Lobster Claws, Spicy Daikon ”Fondant”, Young Bok Choy, Crispy Ginger, Cilantro Shoots and Ginger-Coconut Emulsion |
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最後的肉類主菜是3塊不同部位的牛肉：炭烤乾式熟成的肋眼；煎烤Hangar Steak（位於牛腹部的肌肉）；以及48小時燉煮的美國和牛牛腩。全部都只用鹽花調味 ；前兩者表現頂級美國牛肉單刀直入的美好，反倒是費工的牛腩，燉煮得稍嫌乾澀，雖然不柴，但是有令人遺憾的粉狀口感。
清口的紅酒洋梨以及鳳梨冰沙之後，兩道甜點上場。友人的Cafe Liegeois由Valrhona巧克力布朗尼蛋糕、用黑巧克力溶於牛奶裡製成的Ganache醬、以及Per Se咖啡冰淇淋組合而成。
至於我的Snickers Bar，則結合了迷你的 Sacher Torte（沙赫巧克力蛋糕）、牛奶巧克力軟餡、結晶的鹽味焦糖、以及乳加冰淇淋配西班牙花生醬。無論是繪盤或口味，皆充滿爵士風情：即興、成熟、深遂飽滿。
但我的好奇還沒被滿足。已經下午4點了，我終於還是開口：「能不能替我做一個Coffee and Donut？」
這是加州的French Laundry以及紐約的Per Se隨時備有的甜點，地位非比尋常。而我更好奇是，最草根的巧克力與甜甜圈，如何能昇華作美食餐廳的招牌甜點？畢竟那只是咖啡與甜甜圈而已！
侍者說：「Please enjoy the classic of French Laundry and Per Se.」一只現炸的肉桂砂糖甜甜圈熱騰騰上桌 ；至於咖啡，其實是卡布其諾口味的Semifreddo（冷霜）。我嚐一口甜甜圈，瞬間想起美食作家謝忠道筆下的:「吃起來卻硬是比你過去曾吃到的最好，還要再好上那麼一點！」 油炸的香氣四溢，酥軟的麵團帶勁，表層令人自在的乾爽…。原來甜甜圈的味道就該是這樣！
這算是「創作」嗎？就某種意義來說，Thomas Keller或許只是把別人也能做的事，用他那吹毛求疵到令人頭皮發麻的究極精神與出色技藝，推升到一個全新高度而已。 而我認為僅憑這一點，他便足以不朽於美國料理史。 |
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飯後，在廚房與主廚寒喧時我問道：「那麼，你們真的像傳說中那樣，把魚立在冰箱，來維持它們在水中一樣的姿勢嗎？」我心裡以為這不過是「小魚兒逆流向上」勵志故事的美利堅合眾版而已。
「過來，我秀給你看！」，「什麼！」
我只好隨主廚繞過清理著廚房的工作人員，來到冰庫前。他拖出整箱在碎冰裡的Sea Bream（真鯛），尺寸齊整、鱗光閃耀，更不用說那昂然直立的姿態 ，彷彿像我一樣正為了這跨越東西兩岸、貫徹著Thomas Keller精粹意志的廚房「肅然起敬」著。 |
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據說這保存魚類的方法是在French Laundry實驗出來的，唯有這樣，才不致於擠壓到魚的任何一側而影響肉質。
「太神奇了，我可不可以替它們拍照?」我見主廚面有難色，頓時驚覺這要求愚不可及。豈不知閃光燈會破壞肉質？
就像要在幽黑的酒窖裡，呵護上佳年份的Chateau Petrus一樣。
你還是以為我在開玩笑？
那不妨望向背後，瞧瞧同步連線加州French Laundry與紐約Per Se廚房的螢幕和攝影機；或許，Thomas Keller此時正在那兒微微頷首，對你我微笑。 |
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炙烤小章魚，蕃紅花蒜味醬與Per Se版普羅旺斯燉什蔬
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| Grilled Baby Octopus with Saffron Aioli and Per Se “Ratatouille” |
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Per Se風普羅旺斯燉什蔬襯油桃果南瓜泥 |
| The Per Se “Ratatouille” Accompanied with Squash Puree |
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甜奶油泡煮加拿大新思科夏野生龍蝦兩吃之二: 蝦螫與辣味燉蘿蔔佐薑汁椰奶，青江菜，薑末脆丁與芫荽 |
Sweet Butter Poached Nova Scotia Lobster Claws, Spicy Daikon ”Fondant”, Young Bok Choy, Crispy Ginger, Cilantro Shoots and Ginger-Coconut Emulsion |
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www.frenchlaundry.com/perse/perse.htm
Heading from the lounge to our seats we passed a large glass window, through which we could see the heavy traffic around Columbus Circle and the lush greenness of Central Park
, creating a sense of being at the center of things in this, the most important city in the world. The food most definitely meets the challenge
of the restaurants location – this is Per Se, one of a Thomas Keller restaurant serving only the very best American cuisine.
Head chef Jonathan Bennon had been made aware of our visit and prepared a Chef’s Table set meal for our delectation.
That gave us more time to enjoy the food rather than pore over the menu.
The first dish was Thomas Keller’s world famous canape. This served as a prologue to the main act, establishing the credentials of the upcoming attractions. |
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The first dish, Gruyere Cheese Gougeres, is a small warm puff filled with cheese, the combined fragrance and taste assailing the taste buds. The salmon tartar cornet is a big surprise, the multiple layers of salmon, olive oil and chives only revealing themselves as they unravel in the mouth.Under the salmon is a hidden layer of Creme Fraiche, both wrapped inside a thin sweet cake exterior.
One example is enough to provide the visitor with a view of the stylistic world of Thomas Keller.
One of the characteristics of his cuisine is the importance of small things, leading to a gradual build up and final presentation of something truly impressive.
The waiter then brought the long anticipated “Cauliflower“PANNA COTTA”, with island creek oyster glaze and Russian Sevruga Caviar”.
The Russian Sevruga caviar was presented in a full-oval shape in a porcelain bowl covered by milky-white cream sauce.
The moment one tastes a delicious morsel of this dish, the exciting “freshness” and “saltiness” of the caviar explodes, as the smoothness hidden by the cream cheese is unleashed.
In the culinary world of Thomas Keller this dish is as important as the Statue of Liberty to New York City, a truly significant landmark on the way to still further wonders.
The next dish was a hardboiled egg in a silver egg cup, with transparent pieces of potato standing to attention in the middle.
A crescent-moon shaped bowl was filled with golden yellow scrambled egg and a plate of hash browns. |
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炙烤大西洋藍鮪赤身
Broiled Blue Fin Tuna Akami |
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白松露油與高湯黑松露碎蒸蛋配馬菱薯蝦夷蔥薄片
White Truffle Oil-Infused Custard with Black Truffle Ragout |
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Inside the shell there was white truffle oil steamed egg covered in veal stock, filled with pieces of black truffle. Under the golden scrambled egg there was also a fine layer of black truffle puree.The Hash Browns were in fact freshly cooked Brioche. Since arriving in Manhattan, Thomas Keller has seeming developed an almost Woody Allen-esque type of humor.
Thomas Keller is an expert at utilizing the law of diminishing marginal utility. In an attempt to attract customers the dishes served by many restaurants seek to overload the taste buds , increasing the complexity of the cuisine in the middle of the set meal (through condiments, ingredients or cooking). Keller goes in an altogether different direction, constantly changing the 5-10 mini-portions, thereby avoiding the law of diminishing turns and showcasing the tastes he believes to be most important.
This is particularly true of the sea food dishes at Per Se. One of the best examples is Nova Scotia lobster. This is immersed in boiling water for 3 minutes and when it is done the meat removed , placed in cold storage and kept at room temperature until it achieves heat balance. Finally, the meat is covered in diluted , emulsified salt free butter and heated slowly at a low temperature. In order to enhance the succulent taste of the saturated meat , it is placed on top of slice of slightly spicy radish and dipped in ginger-coconut emulsion.
After all this extensive preparation, customers get to experience the most authentic lobster flavor possible.
The chef adds only butter to heighten the flavor, as well as the spicy fragrance of ginger and sweetness of coconut milk to release the fullness of the taste. This marks the beginning of a journey into culinary heaven. |
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This is not to say Per Se does not also offer dazzling luxurious cuisine.
Before the first two dishes, our waiter James came to the table to show us a glass jar holding a whole pigeon.
For example, duck liver is immersed in pigeon meat stock jelly, the meat and fatty liver are then preserved like this for one week. Before arriving at the table
, the dish is brushed with slightly heated stock until the exterior is roughly 2cm thick and only then is it cut into slices and served on a plate.
The fatty duck liver, fine pigeon meat and stock jelly, with its slightly peppery flavor, form beautiful concentric circles on the plate.
This was perhaps the most meticulously prepared duck liver dish I ever ate.
The waiter then brought a tray of around ten types of sea salt and rock salt from Hawaii, France, England and the US, to be eaten with the duck liver.
Finally, two waiters were needed (one carrying the tray, the other carefully safeguarding the bottle) to bring a bottle of 120-year old Italian Balsamic vinegar to the table from which three drops were added to my meal.
This combination and preparation of fatty liver, salt and vinegar, is the product of much time and painstaking hard work.
Indeed, the strength of purpose behind this dish is almost as breathtaking as its stunning taste. |
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白松露油與高湯黑松露碎蒸蛋配馬菱薯蝦夷蔥薄片
White Truffle Oil-Infused Custard with Black Truffle Ragout |
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Finally, the main meat dish was three different cuts of beef; Charcoal grilled dry-aged rib-eye; Pre-roasted Hangar Steak (from the stomach) ; and Forty-Eight Hour braised “Wagyu” Beef Brisket. These three cuts were garnished with just Fleur de Sel. The first two were exquisite proof, if any were needed, of the quality American beef , whereas the beef flank which involved more work was stewed a little bit too dry for my taste.
Although it was still nice, I found it to have a disappointing non-juing taste.
It was now 4pm and I finally asked: “Could you make me a Coffee and Donut？.”
This is an extraordinary sweet that both French Laundry in California and Per Se in New York make at the request of guests.As he brought a freshly baked cinnamon sugar coated piping hot donut to the table, the waiter said: “Please enjoy the classic of French Laundry and Per Se”.
The coffee was a cappuccino flavor Semi-freddo. Taking a bite of the donut, the words of a famous culinary author came to mind: “It tastes just that little bit better than the best thing you ever tasted before.”
The donut brimmed with oil-fried flavor, the soft dough had just the right amount of give, and the sugar coating was pure heaven. This is how a donut is supposed to taste.
It could be argued that Thomas Keller does nothing more that use what other people can do and apply his own amazing attention to detail and excellent technique to elevate these achievements to new heights.
However, this alone gives him a unique place in the pantheons of American culinary history.
After finishing the meal I asked the head chef over the noise from the kitchen: “Is it true that you keep fish in the refrigerator in the same position they swim in?”He responded: “Come here and I will show you.”
I followed him past the staff cleaning up the kitchen to the cold storage area.
He pulled out a box crate of iced sea bream; their dimensions were regular and ordered, the scales had sheen, and each one was placed in a upright position.
I thought to myself that such attention o detail is exactly why Thomas Keller kitchens on both the east and west coasts are so well respected.
I understand that this way of storing fish was first experimented with at French Laundry
, where is was found to be the best way to make sure no part of the fish is damaged in any way, thereby preserving the succulent quality of the meat.You think I am joking?
Then take a look at the camera and screen which simultaneously show the kitchens at French Laundry and Per Se. The last laugh as always is with restaurant owner Thomas Keller.(Translation by Andrew Shane WILSON) |
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