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本期雜誌 NO.15 Nov.-Dec.06 上一期 下一期

Slow Cooking

  抗老新潮:慢火

Text by 王桂良 Kuei-Liang WANG Photo by王桂良

 

在這所謂「10倍速」的時代,「慢」的哲學,漸漸被反省為一種新的生活態度。人們對時光的看法,從過去總是覺得時間不夠用、事事要追求快速,慢慢轉變為要去享受時間。

世界上許多事物都需要經歷時間,才能顯出它的美好。人們最喜歡歌詠愛情,然而愛情需要歷經時間的等待與考驗,才能成就其偉大;陳年的好酒需要長時間在木桶中發酵,才能熟成其複雜的風味;義大利的Balsamico陳年醋,有些會歷經上百年的發酵、超越其烹調用途,成為歐洲的傳統醫學用藥;日本的拉麵湯、法式的醬汁、中式的高湯,無不重視長久時間的熬煮,才能讓食材釋放出原味。中國古話也說:「富過三代,才懂吃穿」,品味,就是最需要時間的養成。這一波「慢」的風潮所代表的,其實是對於「速成」的揚棄,以及對真實、原味的追求。

時間充裕,才有健康美食

日本的美食節目,常常會帶著觀眾上山下海尋找「夢幻食材」,例如遵照古法發酵的味噌、北海道限量撈捕的馬糞海膽、有機種植的洋蔥等等。「慢火」的概念,就是從食物的選材開始。現代的農牧業,都會大量使用各種的肥料和藥物,來提高生產效率。他們讓蔬菜長成又大又肥、卻毫無營養的Empty Food(空心食物),還附帶大量的農藥;也讓雞鴨魚肉充滿了各式各樣的荷爾蒙與抗生素。這樣的食物,我們怎能接受呢?

除了食材之外,還有調味料的問題。以醬油為例,按照傳統方法釀造,至少需要數個月至1年以上的發酵,才會有基本的醬油風味出現。但是用人工色素、香料、以及鮮味劑來調製醬油,只需要數個小時。但是這速成的醬油好吃嗎?健康嗎?同樣的情形,也發生在許多原本需要長時間製作的食物,例如醋、味噌、酒、醬料、高湯等等。

讓食物依照自然的步調慢慢生長成熟,耐心的等待,我們就可以吃到營養豐富、而且無毒的食物,這也就是「有機食物」的概念。「慢火」,就要先從等待食物開始。

等待食物的生長收穫之外,還要等待它的烹調。例如大家都知道常吃「速食」不利健康,但是有害的並不只是高油脂、高熱量而已,更大的問題是「高溫烹調」容易致癌。基本上,人類在過去數十萬年以來,都是吃低溫烹調的食物。但是現代生活步調變快了,又有許多高溫烹調的器具,這就改變了一切。

經過高溫烹調,不但許多營養素會流失,食物還會產生很多致癌物質。例如澱粉在130℃以上,就會產生丙烯醯胺;糖和蛋白質一起受到高熱會產生Melanoidins(梅納汀);脂肪在80℃以上會產生Free Radicals(自由基)。這些毒素都會造成免疫系統的負擔、使得重大疾病更易產生。

高溫烹調,通常會產生強烈的口感和香味,過程又快速簡單,所以會受到大眾的歡迎。但是人們所吃到的,已經不是食物的原味,而是高溫後的油香或焦炭味。同樣的,人工化學品所調製的加工食品,所吃到的也不是食物真實的味道,更常有種種毒素。另一方面,現代人們經常天天都吃相同的食物,例如麵包、三明治、牛奶等,但這麼一來,身體很容易會對這些食物產生過敏、引起疾病。所以「慢」在食物上的意義,其實就是要選用各種不同的新鮮天然食材,透過燉、燜、滷、水煮、清蒸等120℃以下的方式調理(若使用植物油脂,更要控制在70℃以下),以呈現出食物原有的美味,也保留其中的營養。

在日本,當某位廚師打出「味自慢」的旗號,代表他對自己的料理很有自信。這「味自慢」一詞或可借用為另外的新義:慢火低溫的烹調,不用人工調味料,讓食物的味道完全來自時間的累積,成就出獨特的美味。抗老新潮,就從「慢火」做起吧!

www.anfa.com.tw

In the age of speed, the philosophy of slowing down has become a new trend. Perceptions of time have changed. The emphasis on never having enough time and becoming more and more efficient are now slowly giving way to the realization that time is precious and should be treasured.

There are many things in life that take time to reveal their beauty. People like to praise love, but great love only flourishes with time. Fine wine needs a good deal of aging in oak casks to give it its complexity. Balsamico, a kind of Italian vinegar, may take a hundred years to ferment properly and acquire the healthful properties that make it more than an ordinary ingredient.

 
 

As the old Chinese saying suggests, it takes three generations for people to develop a proper sensibility for fashion and cuisine. Personal taste is something that needs time to mature. The trend of slowing down could well represent the abandoning of speed and the search for the true original taste in life.

Obsession with life in the fast lane can lead to imbalances in the nervous system, hormones and the immune system. It is the main cause of many chronic diseases and speeds up the aging process. In my many years of medical experience dealing with anti-oxidants, I have realized that while medical care is important for our daily health, our lifestyles have an even greater impact.

Healthy food comes with ample time

Japanese food and wine programs take their viewers around the country in the search for legendary food ingredients. Viewers see activities such as the making of traditional miso, trawling for sea urchins from Hokkaido whose harvesting is limited by strict quotas, and organic onion cultivation. The concept of Slow Food begins with the choice of ingredients. The modern agriculture industry uses a lot of fertilizers and chemical to increase crop yields. But can we accept the fact that vegetables are getting bigger but are more and more laced with pesticides and bereft of nutrients, that meats are pumped full of hormones and antibiotics? I think not.
Other than nutrition, there are also issues concerning flavor.
If we take soy sauce an as example, we know that traditionally it takes a few months to one year of fermentation to produce a batch. But by adding artificial colors, spices and flavors to the blend, the process only takes a few hours. Does this make it tasty and healthy? The same thing is also happening with the production of other staples like vinegar, miso and alcohol.

Old-fashioned, patient techniques of production make for foods that are nutritious and non-toxic. This is the concept behind organic food and the basis for the Slow Food movement.

Just as we have to wait patiently to harvest our food, so we also have to wait patiently for it to cook. Everyone knows for example that fast food is not healthy, but what many might not realize is that the harm goes beyond the fat and calories. Cooking with high temperatures is likely to cause cancer. It was for good reason that humans gradually arrived at the method of low-temperature coking over hundreds of thousands of years, but everything has changed with the invention of high-temperature cooking tools that suit our hectic modern lifestyles.

High-temperature coking leeches nutrients from food and, what is worse, encourages the formation of cancer-causing agents. Heating starches to temperatures of 130 degrees Celsius or more, for example, causes acrylamide to form. Exposing sugars and proteins together to high temperatures will result in melanoidins. Free radicals form when fat is heated to 80 degrees Celsius. All these toxins increase the burden on our immune system and increase the likelihood of contracting a major disease.

High-temperature cooking often creates rich aromas and flavors, and the process is relatively efficient. But this process masks food’s original flavor behind the taste of oils and charcoal. On the same token, foods processed with artificial chemicals do not taste like their original ingredients and in many case contain all sorts of toxins. On the other hand, people nowadays tend to consume the same kind of food every day, such as bread, sandwiches and milk, which over the long term causes the human body to develop allergies and leads to different kinds of illnesses. So we can see that the another meaning of Slow Food is a diet that is fresh and diverse. Preparing foods at temperatures below 120 degrees Celsius (or under 70 Celsius if vegetable oils are used) brings out original flavors and preserves their goodness.

In Japan, if a chef hangs a sign advertising “Slow Flavors” it means that he or she is confident about his or her level of cooking. This phrase could also imply another meaning, namely a style of gentle and low-temperature cooking, which means that the food is free of artificial flavors and has been given sufficient time to manifest the true colors of its ingredients. It would be wise for all of us to jump on the Slow Food bandwagon.

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