「Scotch Whisky蘇格蘭威士忌」這個名稱，只可以使用於「在蘇格蘭蒸餾、並在當地以橡木桶陳年3年以上的穀物蒸餾酒」。但與「Wine葡萄酒」不同的是，蘇格蘭威士忌並沒有所謂「法定產區」，過去高、低地產區的分野來自於課稅上的需要，與所使用穀物的種植地點並無關聯。由此逐漸發展出了按Distiller（蒸餾器）所在位置歸類的6大產區。有趣的是，或因歷史的沿革、或是巧合，更多的或是大自然的魔法，各產區內鄰近的蒸餾?都漸漸形成類似的風格。以下便從6大產區的一些珍貴代表酒款，來帶出產區的特色：
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Highland（高地區）
Dalmore 62yo (40.5%, OB)
Highland幾乎等於蘇格蘭的代名詞。蘇格蘭威士忌的發展與高地崎嶇的地形有絕對關係，原本的農村私酒業者在與稅務官捉迷藏的過程中，逐漸轉進山野，孕育了現代的威士忌產業。從愛丁堡向北，逐漸遠離平原，進入重巒疊翠的山林溪谷間。儘管最高海拔也不過1,000米出頭，但冰河侵蝕的遺跡卻讓這兒呈現壯闊美景。
本區的代表酒款，就是Dalmore 62年。此酒日前在拍賣場上創下威士忌最高紀錄酒價，拍出每瓶25,877.5英鎊（約48,000美元）；後來又報導稱某倫敦烈酒專賣店以更高價約60,000美元賣出。
這支酒標示的酒齡雖然「僅」有62年，卻是著名調酒師Richard Pattern集結了來自1868, 1878, 1926 及 1939等不同年份酒桶剩餘的酒調和而成的產品；總裝瓶量12瓶，堪稱極品中的極品。筆者有幸，曾在大師Richard Pattern主持的品飲場合中淺嚐了3ml；那複雜的香氣與充滿力度的酒體，完全顛覆了我對老酒的觀感，至今不能忘懷。
有趣的是，位於北高地的Dalmore酒廠海拔一點也不高，事實上接近零，就位在北海油田的鑽油平台旁。
Lowland（低地區）
Auchentoshan 32yo 1973/2005 (55.5%, OB, 480b. Sherry Cask, decanter)
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相對於Hignland的Lowland區，過去生產的酒以供應調和基酒與加味酒為主，久而久之便發展出較為清淡的特色。然而過去受歡迎的清淡特色，到了現代反而逐漸失色，至今已近乎沒落。
Auchentoshan是少數存活下來的酒廠之一，它仿照愛爾蘭酒廠進行3次蒸餾。一般說來，3次蒸餾後的威士忌會比較純淨清雅，但稍不留意就會流於平淡；然而Auchentoshan卻能在清雅中呈現出複雜的層次感。
這支少見的老年份雪莉桶陳年產品，在成熟風韻中表現出相當的力度，將乾果、麥芽、巧克力的香氣漂亮呈現；其精緻的水晶瓶又增添了酒的質感。不太欣賞Lowland的同好尤須一試。
Speyside（斯佩河畔區）
Glenfiddich 40yo (45.4%, OB, 2nd edition, 600b.)
Speyside區指的是斯佩河及其支流附近的區域，也是過去私釀酒業最集中的地點。這裡產的酒多半有著濃郁的麥芽甜味與繚繞的花果香氣，受到Blender（調和師）與大眾的廣泛喜愛。嚴格來說，這裡算是高地的一個小分區，但由於前述特色讓這裡擁有蘇格蘭最高密度的存活酒廠，也已經成為蘇格蘭威士忌最重要的產區。
Glenfiddich並非本區最早期的蒸餾廠，但卻對今日單一麥芽產業的盛行有著莫大的貢獻。它原本也以調和威士忌的銷售為主，在1963年時由於缺乏穀物威士忌的供應，便嘗試將自家的單一麥芽威士忌以綠色三角瓶裝瓶，放在愛爾蘭的機場免稅店銷售，一舉奠定了之後近50年在全球單一麥芽的領導地位。它早於 1969年就在酒廠設置遊客中心，是首個開放參觀的威士忌酒廠。
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Glenfiddich的酒相當乾淨又略帶柑橘香氣，很多人由於常見的標準款反而忽略了它的珍稀酒款。這支酒齡40年的酒並不多見，第1版酒精度43.6%、第2版45.4%，兩批分別限量600支並有獨立瓶號。筆者過去曾經品飲過第2版，以老年份的成熟果香起始，背景透出些許煙燻及淡泥煤味, 以香草及柑橘作為結尾，隱含梨子的暗示；喜歡老酒的同好不可錯過。
Campbeltown（坎培爾鎮區）
Springbank 1966/2000 Local Barley (54.4%, OB, Cask 509, bourbon cask)
Campbeltown曾經是威士忌製造業的重鎮，最多擁有過32間蒸餾廠；可惜昔日的威士忌之都如今風光不再，目前僅剩下3間酒廠。不過坎培爾鎮區靠著Springbank的Local Barley系列硬是喚起了世人的注意，從而保持了產區之名。
Local Barley系列前後共有50桶酒，都是使用當地生產的泥煤與當地生產的大麥製成。當中部份在1990年以「Western Highland」為名裝瓶，其他則多在1998~2001年前後以「Local Barley」之名問世；這系列的酒完全用單一桶桶裝濃度裝瓶，背標記載著桶號年份與瓶號，每一桶酒的味道都不太一樣，目前一般市價已經上漲4倍，到達每瓶約800美元以上。 |
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Islands（島嶼區）
Highland Park 25yo (50.7%, OB)
由於冰河侵蝕與板塊擠壓，蘇格蘭擁有相當多的島嶼。在過去私酒盛行時期，許多的島嶼成了私釀業者出口美洲大陸的最前哨，幾乎每個島嶼都曾有過威士忌蒸餾廠，而Highland Park就位於蘇格蘭本島北方的Orkney列島上。
許多人受到酒廠名字Highland Park的誤導，認為這是家Hightland酒廠，此種說法亦是亦非。如前所述，在過去稅制影響下，產區僅有高、低地的劃分，因此多數的島嶼都被歸入Highland產區中，所以又有「高地島嶼區」之稱。然而Islands的威士忌在陳年時受到相當多海風的吹襲，酒中常常有明顯的鹹味與碘味，故自高地產區獨立出來也?必然。
Highland Park在價格上相對合宜。這支酒齡25年的酒以高酒精度裝瓶，批次的差異讓它曾有3種不同的酒精度；然而不管是哪個批次，都有相當好的表現。海風、淡泥煤、石楠花香、乾果等，都在重雪莉風格中清楚呈現，是一支相當成熟而適合日常品鑑的選擇。
Islay（艾雷島區）
Laphroaig 30yo (43%, OB)
Islay又有「威士忌之島」的美譽，目前仍擁有8座威士忌蒸餾廠。它也是傳說中蘇格蘭威士忌最可能的發源地。古代的諸侯Lord of Isles（島嶼領主）曾以此地作為對抗挪威人的基地，後來他迎娶了愛爾蘭公主，陪嫁的宮廷醫師則將「生命之水」的製作方式一併帶來，威士忌從此便傳入了蘇格蘭！
今日Islay的威士忌，仍然保留了傳統蘇格蘭威士忌的泥煤煙燻風格，再加上海風鎮日強力吹拂，形成了獨樹一格的強烈風味。也因此能獨立於島嶼區之外，成為目前最受酒評家青睞的產區。
不過重泥煤的風格不見得都能受到一致的喜愛，其中又以Laphroaig的位威士忌最是愛恨分明的代表，關於它的名言「Love it or hate it!」，絕對沒有中間地帶！許多喜愛Laphroaig的人被它年輕款的消毒水味征服，而罕見於市面的這支高年份款，卻調和了部分這間酒廠稀少的雪莉桶陳年威士忌，讓它又多了些泥土與乾果的變化。以酒廠近年來大受歡迎的程度來說，目前每瓶約300美元的價位應該維持不了多久！
To be called Scotch whisky, the spirit must conform to the standards of the United Kingdom’s Scotch Whiskey Order of 1990 and must be matured in Scotland in oak casks for no less than three years and a day. In comparison with French wine, Scotch whiskey does not have a system of appellation origin control. The separation into Highland and Lowland varieties is merely for taxation purposes, and was initially developed with no direct relationship to the region that the malts and grains were grown in. There are now six regions that have developed over the years based on the locations of different distillers. It might be a combination of coincidences, historic influences or simply the miracleof Mother Nature, but nearby distilleries from the same region have developed similar styles.
Highland
Dalmore 62yo (40.5%, OB) |
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Highland would seem to be synonymous with Scotland for many Scotch drinkers. The development of Scotch whiskey was directly related to the narrow landscapes of the Scottish highlands. The struggle between the tax officer and the country distiller drove the latter into the wilderness and give birth to the modern whiskey industry.
Representing this region is Dalmore 62, achieving one of the highest record auction prices, £25,877.5 (roughly US$48,000), later followed by suggested that one liquor store sold a bottle for as high as £60,000.
Aged 62 years, famous blender Richard Pattern's whisky has gathered whiskies from 1868, 1878, 1926 and 1939 to blend a wonderful product, of which only a total of 12 bottles were produced. I was honored by the chance to experience this premium products during a tasting held by Pattern, and surely won't forget the complexity of the aroma and the powerful body that came with it.
Ironically, while Dalmore is situated in the Northern Highlands, its altitude is not high at all. As a matter of fact, its altitude is approximately zero and next to the drilling platforms of the North Sea oil fields.
Lowlands
Auchentoshan 32yo 1973/2005 (55.5%, OB, 480b. Sherry Cask, decanter)
In contrast with Highland scotch, lowland whiskeys are triple distilled, which usually gives them a lighter taste. Auchentoshan is one of the remaining distilleries, having adopted the Irish whiskey distiller method of triple distilling. Instead of pure plainness, the Auchentoshan poses a complexity of layering.
Its rarely seen products are aged in sherry barrels. The charming maturity of this whiskey comes with power and strength, which is expressed in its beautiful aroma of dried fruit, malt and chocolate favors. The delicate crystal bottle adds texture to this fine collection. Drinkers that have overlooked the typical Lowland scotch should give it a try.
Speyside
Glenfiddich 40yo (45.4%, OB, 2nd edition, 600b.)
Strictly speaking, Speyside can be seen as a sub-region of Highland, but due to the popularity of the style and its flavor, it is the most important whiskey-producing region with the largest number of distilleries in operation. Glenfiddich is not one the oldest distilleries in this region, but it has made an undeniable contribution to the single malt whiskey industry. Originally, the distillery mainly engaged in the production and sale of blended whiskey, but due to the shortage of supply for grain whiskey in 1963, the distillery decided to put its self-made single malt whiskey with green triangular bottling on the shelf of the duty-free shop inside an Irish airport. It became a spectacular success and cemented the distiller’s position as the single malt whiskey industry leader for the last half-century.
Glenfiddich comes with a flashiness and a slight touch of orange. Most drinkers overlook its more prestigious products due to the popularity of its standard label. Its 40-year old whiskey is an exclusive products, with a first edition of 43.6%v/v and a second edition of 45.4%v/v, both of which come with individually numbered bottles and had a limited production of 600 bottles of each. I had the privilege of tasting the second edition. The experience started with aged fruitiness slowly developing into smokiness, a light coal body complement with a vanilla and orange aftertaste with hints of peach. If you are interested in old whiskies, you surely cannot miss this.???
Campbeltown
Springbank 1966/2000 Local Barley (54.4%, OB, Cask 509, bourbon cask)
Campbeltown was once a major district for whiskey production and home to 32 distilleries. Now there are only three distilleries currently in operation there, but Springbank's Local Barley collection hearkens back to the region’s glory days and protects its dignity as a whiskey production region.
The Local Barley collection totals fifty barrels of whiskey dried only with local made peat and home-grown barley. Some of them were bottled in 1990 under the name Western Highland, the rest were released between 1998 and 2001 as Local Barley. These collectables were all bottled from single barrels, their label’s stamped with age and bottle number. Every barrel expresses a slightly different taste. The market price has already quadrupled to US$800 per bottle.
Islands
Highland Park 25yo (50.7%, OB)
Ice Age glaciation and continental drift have shaped the geography of Scotland, endowing it with many islands. When tax avoidance by whiskey producers was at its peak, many islands were ideal points for distilleries to export their products to the Americas. Nearly every island had a whiskey distillery. One of these, Highland Park, is situated on Orkney Island, north of the Scottish mainland.
Many people are misled by the name Highland Park and think it is a Highland distillery, but this is not completely incorrect. As mentioned earlier, production was only divided into Highland and Lowland regions in the past for the purposes of taxation; therefore, most of the islands belonged to the Highland region at the time and are such called the Highland Island region. Other the other hand, the constant exposure to ocean winds during the aging process have given these whiskies obvious tones of salt and iodine, and this difference in style has resulted in the independence of the Islands region.
Highland Park is competitive in price. This 25-year-old whiskey is bottled with a high v/v, with differences in production batches leading to three different levels of alcohol content. But regardless of the differences, each batch expresses exceptional performance with elements of ocean air, light peat and dried fruit, complemented with rich sherry overtones that make them a mature daily choice for appreciation.
Islay
Laphroaig 30yo (43%, OB)
Islay was crowned with the title of the Island of Whiskey. Eight distilleries are still in operation as of today. In ancient times, the lord of the Isles was based on the Island for the fight against the Irish. He later married a princess from Ireland. The formula for the “water of life” might have been introduced to Scotland at that time by the royal doctor who accompanied the Irish princess.
The Islay whiskey today still retains its traditional smoky peat taste. The constant exposure to ocean winds has helped create a unique richness. This is another reason why Islay is independent from other the islands and has become a favorite of the true connoisseur.
While the heavy taste of peat is surely not everyone's cup of tea, Laphroaig is surely Islay’s best representative, both for those who love the region or hate it. No middle option is allowed. Many drinkers are conquered by its taste of pure water, and this unusually long-aged version has blended some of the most exclusive aged sherry-barreled whiskies, which add a more earthy taste complemented with hints of dried fruit. As the distillery is gaining more attention and becoming more and more popular, its US$300 price tagwon’t stay that low for long.(Translation by 鄭凱旋 Kaiser Cheng) |
