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中東風味項練,正面呈一孔雀模樣,以馬賽克方式鑲嵌藍綠色系寶石(opal、amethyst、sapphire),反面兩隻紅鶴以粉紅、粉黃色系琺瑯填成, 1906年作。
Necklace of Middle Eastern style with the front as a peacock in mosaic setting of blue-green color tone gemstones (opal, amethyst, and sapphire,) and at the back, 2 red cranes in pink and pink-yellow enamel, created in 1906. |
在我住過的某個美國東北部地方,有許多小湖散落林間。每開車經過,水光樹影都令人愉快;但傍晚的景緻,卻特別教人心動。因為湖邊一座石砌小屋,有扇佔了半面牆的窗戶,正對著湖與濱湖道路;明窗中央,垂掛著一盞大大的Stained-glass Lamp(嵌花玻璃燈)。繽紛色彩包含著黃暈燈光,氣氛好得使路過的車都不由慢下來,所有歸家的人,似乎都可感受到那彩燈的情愛與溫暖,仿彿自己也被等待著,歡迎著。
「嵌花玻璃燈」確實有這種奇妙、動人心弦的力量。它們的絢爛設計,來自19與20世紀之交,即Art Nouveau(新藝術) 與Art Deco(裝飾藝術)華麗式樣風行的年代。
在美國,Louis Comfort Tiffany(路易.康佛.第凡尼;1848-1933)是「新藝術運動」的主導人物;「嵌花玻璃」是令他聞名的眾多藝術專長之一,除了燈罩,還應用在窗門及其它飾物上。如今真品盡是各大藝術館和拍賣公司爭搶的對象;坊間可購得的,雖仍昂貴,已是複製再複製的兒孫輩了。 |
許多人對「新藝術運動」並不很了解,倒是看了「嵌花玻璃燈」就叫得出Tiffany Lamp(第凡尼燈)。有人仍會好奇地問:這個Tiffany,和那世界聞名的Tiffany & Co.,有沒有關聯啊?
答案是:有的。
如果形容有錢人家的孩子是「含著銀湯匙」出世,那麼 Louis Comfort Tiffany(人們常以其姓名縮寫LCT稱之)所含的銀湯匙應該是最珍貴、漂亮的一把。因為他的父親,正是名店Tiffany & Co. 的創始人Charles Lewis Tiffany。
LCT自幼愛畫畫,極有藝術天份。父親希望他未來能從政,因此送他進了軍校。但LCT對軍事正課毫無興趣,只愛繪畫課;並在這段期間,結識了名風景畫家George Inness。他努力學畫,完全不顧軍政前途。
如同每一位父親,Charles雖然遺憾於兒子不肯加入政圈,仍盡全力量幫助LCT走藝術的路。要知道在這一點上LCT有多幸運,得大致了解當時Tiffany & Co.的營運情況。
19世紀下半期,巴黎仍是世界藝術中心,Charles做生意富國際觀,找到珠寶家Gideon Reed合夥,1850年在巴黎開了分店。他又延攬專才Edward C. Moore(愛德華•摩爾,1851-1891在職)負責設計;後請寶石學家George Frederick Kunz(喬治•孔玆,1879-1927在職)負責鑑定及開發稀美寶石。
Moore經常往返巴黎、紐約店間,尋找設計靈感與技高藝匠,更帶回各種歐洲新藝術訊息,譬如蘇伊士運河開通,法國時尚界流行中東及埃及風……這些聽在熱愛藝術的少年LCT耳中,真是心嚮往之。 |
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Moore對LCT如父如師,特別陪LCT去巴黎求藝,又傳授給LCT設計經驗,和自己收集回教、東方藝術品的專精知識。被譽為「美國寶石學泰斗」的Kunz,更是悉心地從頭教導LCT認識各種礦石,尤其是本來不甚出名、不被賞識的奇石,或美國土產的寶石。 |
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孔雀羽狀紋路玻璃瓶。由LCT手下頂尖吹玻璃師傅George J. Cook所發明,約1896-1897年間作。
Glass bottle with prints of peacock feather, invented by George J. Cook, LCT’s top master of blowing glass. Created between 1896 and 1897. |
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LCT最傲人的作品之一,嵌花玻璃燈罩,約1912年作
One of LCT’s proudest works, floral stained glass lamp cover, created around 1912. |
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LCT受寶石學家George Kunz的影饗,大量使用半寶石(semi-precious stone)。此項練用pearl、amethyst,中央嵌粉紅色的 topaz,1918-1920年間作。
LCT used great quantity of semi-precious stones, as influenced by gemologist, George Kunz. This necklace is set with pearls, amethyst and centered a pink topaz. Created between 1918 and 1920. |
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中東風味項練,正面呈一孔雀模樣,以馬賽克方式鑲嵌藍綠色系寶石(opal、amethyst、sapphire),反面兩隻紅鶴以粉紅、粉黃色系琺瑯填成, 1906年作。Necklace of Middle Eastern style with the front as a peacock in mosaic setting of blue-green color tone gemstones (opal, amethyst, and sapphire,) and at the back, 2 red cranes in pink and pink-yellow enamel, created in 1906. |
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Moore與Kunz當然是兩大貴人;但其它進出Tiffany & Co.店的,也都是珠寶行業中的佼佼者。譬如來自Venice的製玻璃師Antonio Salviati,他做的彩玻璃馬賽克無人能比;還有做琺瑯的John Curran,做陶瓷的……。少年LCT最初只想成為水彩畫家(他畫得確實好,並非什麼都不會的紈褲子弟),卻因得天獨厚的家庭背景,受教於珠寶業界的最佳師資,耳濡目染,想不投入「設計」這一行也難。
在當時,舉辦「世界博覽會」是滾滾的熱潮,在倫敦、在巴黎、在維也納……。每個名牌名店名設計家,都卯足勁去參展、比賽。一旦得獎,名利雙收。Tiffany在Moore的指導下拿了許多大獎,爭足鋒頭。得獎也給漸成年的LCT很大的鼓勵,他雖不斷以畫作參展,但也從1872年開始「跨行」試做玻璃藝品,1876年完成他的第一面嵌花玻璃窗。
1879年,LCT與朋友合開了一家室內設計公司,在往後40年中,為紐約數百富貴人家、公私組織,做了反映當代藝術風格的華麗設計。1893年,再開一家專製嵌花玻璃的公司,還參加了「芝加哥世界博覽會」。展品中有一座小教堂,處處是嵌花玻璃與馬賽克拼畫,人人驚艷。展覽結束,LCT一共得了54個獎。
LCT繼續設計出Favrile Glass Vases(七彩玻璃瓶),大受歡迎。接著他做起琺瑯藝品來,後再加上陶瓷、銅器……。LCT有Tiffany & Co.公司的充裕支援,可以不斷地嘗試新的藝術領域與媒介。1900年的「巴黎世界博覽會」中,LCT一口氣展出了嵌花玻璃、馬賽克、七彩玻璃瓶、琺瑯藝品等新作,獲頒「應用藝術類」首獎。
1902年,Charles Tiffany過世,Tiffany & Co.的大家業傳到LCT手上。
LCT不再像年輕時那樣只扮藝術家,他除了擔下行政的責任,還兼Tiffany & Co.的「設計總監」(1902--1918),開始設計首飾,他是個生手嗎?不,過去所有的藝術經驗全匯集在一起。Moore曾引領LCT欣賞埃及、回教和東方藝術,現在成為他創作的靈感大河。Kunz介紹的罕見礦石和美國土產寶石,LCT也精於選用。他更混用嵌花玻璃、馬賽克嵌畫、琺瑯、銅器、陶磁等在首飾設計裡,作品呈現華麗的氣氛,正是Art Nouveau的風格。
出生時帶來的銀湯匙跟了Louis Comfort Tiffany一輩子;他時時享受上流社會的優越浮華,擅長舉辦有主題的派對、喜歡各處旅遊(差點坐上鐵達尼號)。好在他也把這些氣氛,經意或不經意地融入作品裡;就像一盞Tiffany Lamp,輝煌燦爛,留給後人遙看「奢華年代」的機會。
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I once lived in a small town in the United States, which was surrounded by forestland and several lakes. Whenever I drove through the area, I always found the sunlight reflecting off the surface of the lakes and the cool shade underneath the trees to be particularly uplifting. But even that paled when compared to the stunning night landscapes.
There were two stone cabins by the lakeside, with long windows that looked over the water. In the center of one of these hung a stained-glass lamp. The mixture of bright colors together with the fading light at sunset was a vision so stunning that motorists would slow down as they passed by, as if they could sense the warmth and love represented by the glowing light.
A “stained-glass lamp” has the power to move people with its brilliant design. The art form can be traced back to the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, which was an era renowned for its wonderful Art Nouveau and Art Deco design. In the United States, Louis Comfort Tiffany (1848-1933) was one of the main proponents of the Art Nouveau movement, and stained glass was one of the artistic specialties that brought him the greatest fame. Tiffany’s stained glass was also used on doors, windows and elsewhere as a decorative element. Today, major art galleries and auction houses compete for the right to display or sell his stained-glass lamps.
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蜻蜓別針,以black opal 和dermatoid鑲嵌,為1904年聖路易博覽會而作。
Dragonfly brooch set with black opal and dermatoid was created for 1904’s St. Louis Expo. |
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彩盤,用favrile glass 為材,mosaic(馬賽克拼畫)為做法,盤角的蜻蜓翅膀上「錦上添花」,都是favrile glass 的特殊花紋。1902年作。
Colorful plate in favrile glass of mosaic pattern.
At the corner of the plate, in favrile glass was the unique print pattern of “Good fortune blessed with double portion,” on the wings of dragonflies. Created in 1902. |
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七彩favrile glass所製的小飾瓶,可開啟的瓶頂鑲鑽石、寶石。此瓶由Tiffany店的設計師Paulding Farnham設計,為1900年巴黎世界博覽會所作。
The little decorative bottles made of colorful favrile glass set with diamonds and gemstones on the bottle top, which can be opened. This was designed by Tiffany’s designer, Paulding Garnham, for 1900’s Paris World Expo. |
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If the offspring of wealthy families are “born with a silver spoon in their mouths,” then Louis Comfort Tiffany’s (often referred to as LCT) own silver spoon was of the most valuable and beautiful kind. His father was Charles Lewis Tiffany, founder of the high-end US-based jeweler Tiffany & Co.
In the second half of the nineteenth century, Paris was still the art center of the world and Charles, who had a well-developed international business sense, opened a branch store there in 1850. He employed a jeweler, Edward C. Moore, to design pieces of silver and precious stones, and? a gem specialist, George Frederick Kunz, to appraise and seek out rare American gems.
Moore frequently traveled between the stores in Paris and New York, searching for design inspiration and expert craftsmen, and always taking the latest news from European art circles back to the United States with him. For example, as the world celebrated the opening of the Suez Canal, Middle Eastern and Egyptian styles became popular within the French fashion world. Many young men who, like LCT, had a passion for art, yearned to visit Paris. Moore was like a father to LC T and traveled with him to Paris, passing on his own design experience and his knowledge of Muslim and Eastern art works, which was gathered over many years of research and collecting.
Known as the “top American gem specialist,” Kunz also went to great lengths to teach LCT how to recognize various minerals, especially special stones rarely used by most jewelers and pearls and other precious stones indigenous to the United States.
Moore and Kunz were two of the most important influences on LCT and the development of his interest in art. After joining Tiffany & Co., LCT continued to be surrounded by some of the masters of jewelry design, including, Antonio Salviati, a colored glass mosaic master from Venice and John Curran, who made cloisonne and ceramic art. LCT learned painting in New York and Paris but as a result of his special family background spent his spare time meeting with the best teachers in the jewelry industry, who kept him up to date with the latest developments. In such a situation, it is perhaps not entirely surprising that LCT became interested in design.?
In LCT’s day, World Fairs were hugely popular, with events held in London, Paris and Vienna. Guided by Moore, Tiffany & Co. received many prestigious awards and attracted much attention. This served as a major source of encouragement to the young LCT and he began to work in many different mediums, experimenting with glass art works and completing his first stained glass window in 1876.
In 1879, LCT and a friend established an interior design company in New York, which for the next 40 years produced classic designs for several hundred public and private organizations and wealthy patrons. He also continued to experiment with stained glass design. In 1893, LCT displayed a piece depicting a small church at the World Fair in Chicago. It was widely praised. After the Fair, LCT won a grand total of 54 awards. |
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LCT continued to produce Favrile glass vases, which were also well received wherever they were displayed, and other cloisonne, ceramic and bronze art pieces. Utilizing the labor and financial support of Tiffany & Co. he constantly experimented with new art mediums. In 1900, LCT displayed stained glass, mosaic paintings and cloisonne pieces at the Paris World Fair, winning first prize for “applied art.” “applied art.”
In 1902, LCT’s father passed away and he took charge of Tiffany & Co., taking over the ownership of the company and serving as “Design Supervisor” (1902 to 1918). Only then did LCT decide to start designing jewelry himself. |
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Louis Comfort Tiffany, 攝於1932年。
Louis Comfort Tiffany photographed in 1932. |
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Although many regarded him as a novice, LCT had considerable experience with different artistic media and it was at this point that it all came together. His many years of painting gave him a fine grasp of color theory, which fueled his passionate promotion of the Art Nouveau movement. His jewelry borrowed from the most beautiful shapes found in the natural world: flowers, fruit, insects, fish, birds and animals. The Egyptian, Muslim and Eastern art that Moore had taught LCT also became a great source of creative inspiration. In the same way, the rare minerals, semi-precious stones and American pearls and precious stones that Kunz had introduced were ingeniously utilized with some truly eye-catching results. LCT also incorporated the materials and methods he had become familiar with into his jewelry designs. The rich variety in his pieces showcased a sumptuous and beautiful style that became identified as Art Nouveau and remains a defining characteristic of LCT’s oeuvre.
Some people say that LCT’s designs created art out of nature and manmade light, of which the best example is his stained-glass pieces. Although his jewelry may not be as famous as the “Tiffany Lamp,” the pieces were certainly more sophisticated. They were also three-dimensional crystallizations of light and color and the very epitome of fine craftsmanship.
Note: In the 1950’s the management of Tiffany & Co. passed out of the hands of the founding family. The new owner had a preference for modernist simple pieces and LCT’s designs were locked away in the company files and forgotten. In 2002, however, artistic director John Loring discovered and became particularly enamored of these classic designs and wrote a book to celebrate them, “Louis Comfort Tiffany at Tiffany & Co” (published by Abrams). Loring’s book discussed in detail LCT’s artistic work and is well worth reading for anyone who is interested in the industry.(Translation by Andrew Shane WILSON) |
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