思緒陷於渾沌，身在何處；昨夜曼谷機場喧囂依然在耳。現下，蟲鳴鳥啼溪流，床寬大而舒軟，我，在喜馬拉雅山雪域山麓，不丹王國，甦醒。

柔陽躡腳潛入，起身開6格大木櫺窗，端坐靈山秀水之前。女侍送來不丹花草茶Tsheringma，紅菊花與肉桂對成的金黃茶色溫潤，拌一匙當地的三葉草蜂蜜，飲入，將身體機能慢速喚醒。接著泡入浴缸，面向遠山青蔥的風景畫中。

		不丹•香格里拉 佛教裡的天堂淨地，香格里拉，是一種哲思上的存在、人類最理想的居所。目前，許多旅人的香格里拉，是在叢山拱護的不丹。 直到1950年代，不丹王國仍與世隔絕；上世紀70年代才有首批遊客入境。訪客多由曼谷搭機入境，唯一可選擇的是不丹國營的Druk Air航空公司，飛機只2架，機票昂貴。有限的機位也具體地限制了訪客人數，現在每年入境遊客約1萬人，向隅者仍多。 不丹小國，面積與瑞士相仿。現任國王Jigme Singye Wangchuck在開放觀光、走入現代之際，處處小心翼翼維護自然環境、以及人文傳統，深怕重蹈鄰國尼泊爾的窘境。
Amankora Thimphu 是最新業作，其廳堂挑高最高，氣勢最盛。 Amankora Thimphu is the newest creation of the industry.                         The high ceilings at the lobby demonstrate magnificance.

Aman集團在不丹的豪華旅店統稱為Amankora，即下列4處： Amankora Thimphu（位於首都）、Amankora Paro（近Paro機場）、Amankora Punakha（位於古都河谷）、以及Amankora Gangtey（較偏遠、建於高原之上、景色荒煙滄莽）。明年更會在較偏遠的不丹東部，再增設2處。

美哉！阿曼

Aman多年前即已對不丹興趣濃厚，但直至3年前取得景觀絕佳的Paro河谷建地，才開設第一家Amankora。

可還記得班機降落香港舊啟德機場時，那在水泥叢林裡呼嘯飛翔的樂趣？飛抵不丹Paro機場前的10分鐘滑翔更是驚異奇航（以選擇左面靠窗座位為佳）。兩側機翼幾幾乎掠過高山針葉林；遠山重重，瞬即轉成九彎十八拐的綠色林道；左轉右降，松柏、梯田、農舍、田夫等美景盡入眼簾後，才轉入寬闊的Paro河谷降落。

隨後經過Tiger’s Nest（虎穴）；這是建於險峻岩崖上的寺廟，是不丹的國寶級密乘佛教的發源地。其橫空出世，危危顫顫住於險崖，氣勢分外凌人。

Amankora Paro隱密於深林中。24間客房、起居室、餐廳皆有攝人山景，有若置身瑞士山巔。天候良好時，還可眺望遠處的不丹聖山Mount Jhomolhari。
不丹人向以Hot Stone Bath（炙石浴）淨身健體，現在則成為遊客體驗不丹風情的必要項目。Amankora Paro的Spa中心，提供半露天的豪華版炙石浴。大石塊先加熱2小時以上，然後投石入池；透過木隔板的縫隙，熱石池水與熱解的礦物質會逐漸滲入泡浴池，再循序加入有助血液循環的當地藥草Khempa同浸。泡浴之後，舒體按摩60分鐘。按摩師手法輕柔，拿捏適切。似睡若醒間，輕聲喚醒，恍若隔世，宛若新生。

Paro兩小時車程外，在日漸熱鬧現代的首都Thimphu旁，Amankora Thimphu靜謐地座落於半山腰。邊有小溪潺潺，綠蔭掩映，景觀雖不若Amankora Paro壯麗，卻秀雅獨具。其建築融合不丹古堡樣式，又以現代透視觀點將牆面以幾何切出視窗。室內各角皆天光雲影，自視窗灑落，是一幢「會呼吸」的建築。

雨季的恩賞 松茸

不丹物產豐富，80%的人口以農畜業維生，自給自足。又出口大量的蘋果、柑橘至鄰國印度、孟加拉等。其中最為人津津樂道的，則是產自不丹深山藍松之下，珍貴的松茸。

夏雨滋潤，松茸繁茂，每年8月初至9月中是最佳季節。Amankora Thimphu自日本京都請來大廚，以鮮採美味的松茸入菜，兼示範教學松茸廚藝。若想避開6至8月的雨季滂沱，又想一嚐不丹松茸珍饈，那麼9月上旬就是最理想的安排。

		Amankora Thimphu的「煎炒松茸搭犛牛排」頗佳，「松茸天婦羅」也很美味，「松茸卡布其諾湯」更是馨濃暢口。唯一敗筆是「泰式松茸沙拉」，甜辣酸醬壞了松茸的幽香。但整體而言依舊精采，Amankora的廚藝鰲頭獨占；行旅不丹，精緻料理盡皆在此。 週末過訪首都，市場中奇蔬異果、色彩繽紛，著實賞心悅目。不丹人嗜辣，大中小辣，白青桔紅色，辣粉辣醬辣膏，口味殊異。Amankora也提供精緻版的不丹風味料理，當中以「起司饃饃餃」，輕沾特製辣醬為最佳。
		Punakna Dzong，此政教合一的處所，如行於江上的戰艦，巍峨昂揚。 Punakna Dzong is where the state unifies with the church, sailing like an eminent and proud warship on the river. 自Amankora Paro的起居接待廳裡往外望，即可見攝人山景。 Overlooking the breath-taking mountain views from Amankora Paro's living/reception room. 浴室與臥室客廳連成一氣，視線無礙，與天光雲影共浴。 Bathing under the skylight and cloud shadows through the unobstructive view from the bathroom which adjoins bedroom and livingroom. 以Hot Stone Bath(炙石浴)洗滌淨身，同時達成健體養生之效，現已成為體驗不丹風情的必要項目。 Body cleansing with Hot Stone Bath to achieve body health is now the "must-do" to experience Bhutan's romantic customs.

儒雅自然 不丹人

首都往東1小時車程，扺達高3,140米的隘口Dochu La。多年前，不丹皇后至廟宇祈福，途經此地，突然發願在此興建佛塔；後即於山頂小丘上興建108座佛塔群，祈願國泰民安。

順隘口而下，山路盤旋；正當暈眩之際，終於見著了大河切割、縱深遠闊的Punakna河谷。群山綿延，梯田層疊間，偶見小村。往前「父河」與「母河」交會，行車駛過Punakna村，再往深處裡去，抵達離群索居的Amankora Punakna。

此次更為有趣，貴賓步行過五色天馬旗纏繞飛揚的吊橋，搭乘由Aman人員駕駛的電動小車，繞過稻田阡陌，方得進入該飯店。飯店中古意盎然的傳統建築，是舊時皇后的農舍，可由此俯瞰耕地。

這座Amankora只8間住房，旁有可供膳且視野遼闊的廣闊露台。白日靜觀稻浪翻飛，晚間則品賞清風曉月。幽雅禪靜，是暫時避世沉澱的佳境。

Aman的迷人，在服務有「先客而至」的體貼，與「精不厭細」的講究。而Amankora更令人迷戀；這迷情在於人，不丹的人。不丹人溫文優雅，謙遜含蓄。侍者在臨桌服務後，總低額退後3步，才轉身離開。這是不丹人特有的自然儒雅，非後天訓練的儀禮。

淨土不丹，在Amankora的嚴選設點下，處處令人眷戀。其景、其物、其人，以及其輕柔絮語；不丹人的、經幡上的、風吹來我耳際的，依舊喃喃。

www.AmanResorts.com

My thoughts are swirling around me. I’m disorientated. The noise from Bangkok airport is still ringing in my ears, and now I wake up in a wide and soft bed listening to the rhythm of insects and birds and flowing water. I find myself in the snowy regions of the Himalayas — in the Kingdom of Bhutan The soft sunlight issues forth into the room through the six slats of the wooden window frame, complementing the idyllic view. A waitress comes in carrying tsheringma, a Bhutanese tea. Its warm golden color comes from the interaction of saffron and cinnamon, and mixing it with a spoonful of indigenous clover honey will surely ease one’s body to a state of calm alertness . The next thing to do is to take a bath in front of this beautiful backdrop.
山景以佐餐。 Dining with the mountain views. 現下，蟲鳴鳥啼溪流，床寬大而舒軟，我，在喜馬拉雅山雪域山麓，不丹王國，甦醒。 Right at the moment, along the calling of worms, the singing of birds, and the running streams, and in the grand and soft bed, I, awake to the mountains at the snowy region under the Himalayas of the Kingdom of Bhutan.

Bhutan Shangri-La

Shangri-La is the heaven of Buddhism, existing in our consciousness and regarded as the ideal dwelling place. Now, a Shangri-la for tourists may be the mountain-ringed Kingdom of Bhutan.

Bhutan is the approximate size of Switzerland. King Jigme Singye Wangchuck has made significant and well-planned efforts to protect the country’s natural environment and traditions before opening up the nation to the modern world. These steps are being taken to mainly avoid the country experiencing a similar plight as neighboring Nepal.

The luxury hotels in Bhutan belonging to the Aman group carry the name Amankora, and there are four of them in the country. They include the Amankora Thimphu (located in the capital), Anankora Paro (near the Paro airport), Amankora Punakha and Amankora Gangtey. Two additional Amankora hotels are scheduled to open next year, in the remote eastern region of Bhutan

Beautiful Aman

Aman had been interested in Bhutan for many years, culminating in the opening of the first Amankora hotel three years ago in the ideally situated Paro valley.

Many people might still remember the level of excitement when flights would glide through the jungle of high-rise buildings before landing in the old Hong Kong airport. But the final 10 minutes of the approach to Paro airport are even more thrilling (better sit on the left-hand side). The wings are slightly above the mountain pines and with countless mountains spilling over the horizon, the pilot banks sharply, following a narrow green path lined with wonderful sights of huge, unadorned Christmas trees, rice fields, farm houses and farmers, before touching down at the Paro Airport.

After exiting the airport and driving deep into the Paro valley, you’ll pass the Paro Dzong, on your way to the Amankora Paro. Dzongs are the national icons of Bhutan. They are castles built to defend against invaders (Tibet was once their archenemy). Today, Dzongs have become the centers for political and religious administration. Their grand architecture presents itself, attracting the gazes of visitors.?

We went past Tiger’s Nest on our way, a temple built on a precarious cliff and possessing a dramatic, visual impact. It was the origin of what is regarded as the national treasure of Bhutan, the “mi” branch of Buddhism.

Amankora Paro is nestled in a forest. The living rooms in the 24 suites, as well as the dining facilities, open out to grand mountain views on a par with? Switzerland. The holy Bhutanese Mount Jhomolhari is clearly visible in the distance. You might as well partake in bathing at one of the hotel’s famous hot stone baths, as it is now becoming very popular among the activities offered. The Amankora Paro spa center provides a deluxe version of the semi-open hot stone baths. A large stone heated for more than two hours is placed into the pool of water. The minerals from the stone and the hot spring diffuse into the bathing pond and combine with the local herb Khempa. After this sensational bath, you have the opportunity to experience an hour body massage, where under the tender hands of the masseur you allow yourself to be transported to the nether regions between dream and reality and you awaken to your newly- born body.

		A two-hour drive from Paro, situated half way up the mountain side of the crowded capital of Thimphu, is the Amankora Thimphu. The Amankora Thimphu might not be grand as Amankora Paro, but the exquisite grounds and a crystal-clear spring added with the contemporary elementary design of its Bhutanese castle setting gives the complex the air of liveliness. The blessed grace of the rainy season — matsutake mushrooms Bhutan is rich in agricultural resources, on which 80 percent of the population relies on for their livelihood. Large quantities of apples and oranges are exported to countries such as India and Bangladesh.But the most widely known product is the prestigious matsutake mushrooms, found in the coniferous forests deep in the mountains.
Dochu La 山巔隘口高3,140公尺，有108座佛塔，以祈願世界和平，國泰民安。 108 Buddhist Pagodas around the 3,140 meter high entrance to the pass to Dochu La's summit, praying for peace of the world, prosperity and safety of the country and its people.

The moisture from the summer rains enriches the matsutake mushrooms.The season from the beginning of August to Mid-September is the ideal time for gathering. Amankora Thimphu’s head chef hails from Osaka and prepares the freshly gathered mushrooms into delicious cuisine. The hotel also offer the chance to learn the culinary arts dedicated to the matsutake. If you want to miss the rainy season from June to August, but you do not want to miss out on the great taste of Bhutan, then the beginning of September would be the ideal time to go.

Amankora Thimphu’s house speciality of fried matsutake mushrooms with corn beef steak is great. Their matsutake tempura is delicious and the cappuccino matsutake soup is mouth-watering.. The only imperfection is the Thai-style matsutake salad’s sweet and sour sauce, which ruins the aroma of the mushrooms. Overall, the meal was a wonderful chance to experience their best cuisine and you would not want to miss this level of gastronomic achievement during your stay in Bhutan.

On my weekend visit to the capital, I saw many wondrously exotic vegetables and fruits. Bhutanese like spices in their daily meals, so you can see peppers of differing shapes and sizes, each giving its unique hue of spiciness. Amankora Thimphu serves the upmarket version of traditional Bhutanese cooking and the steamed dumplings with specially made pepper sauce would have to be one of the best.

Natural Elegance — The Bhutanese

Driving east from the capital for an hour one reaches the 3,140-meter Dochu La Pass. Many years ago, a Queen of Bhutan was here and suddenly wished to build a pagoda, and over the years 108 pagodas have been built high above the hilltops, so as to keep the country peaceful and prosperous.

There was more fun on the way to the hotel entrance than I had expected as guests must walk past a suspension bridge covered with colorful banners of winged horses. Service people from Aman pick the guests up in electric carts and drive them around a rice field before entering the hotel. This ancient looking hotel’s architecture is traditional for it was originally built as a Queen’s farmhouse, so one can relax by viewing the surrounding fields.

There are only eight suites in this Amankora, along with a veranda for meals and site-viewing. Regardless if your preference is seeing the wind weaving through the rice fields in the daytime or the moon bathing the surroundings at night, this resort is offers a great opportunity to rest your mind and escape from reality for a moment.

The allure of the Amankora hotels comes from their customer-oriented service and their aim in seeking perfection. But what is most important is the people of Bhutan themselves; they will lower their head and step back three steps before turning and leaving. You easily feel that this kind of modesty and elegance comes naturally to the Bhutanese people and not a product of service industry training.

In the dreamland of Bhutan combined with the careful selection of an Amankora hotel, you will find that every spot, every object, every person and every word is transformed into a soft Bhutanese melody that encircles the ears. (Translation by 鄭凱旋Kaiser CHENG)