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置身於機器聲隆隆的織布工廠，彩色織線在排列整齊的紡織機上來回交錯著，空氣裡到處是飛舞的棉絮和線頭。全球許多豪富名流所穿的上萬美元訂製西服，就是從這裡開始，再一針一線地完成的。
Consitec 是義大利和瑞士交界的一處成衣工廠，也是義大利 Ermenegildo Zegna 品牌專門製作男士高級訂製服的重要據點之一。這裡有精密的品質控管、一流的手工技藝、以及最高等級的 Vicuna 面料 ( 一種高山品種的野駝羊毛織品；目前只有 Ermenegildo Zegna 、 Chanel 、 MaxMara 等 3 個品牌可以取得供貨 ) 。
Ermenegildo Zegna 義大利男裝的地位，在時尚圈裡毋庸置疑。早在 70 年代，品牌就提供西服、襯衫、外套及領帶的量身訂製服務。顧客可依個人喜好指定布料的織造種類，布料邊緣也會織繡出布料名稱及訂製者的姓名。 2004 年秋季， Ermenegildo Zegna 更把量身訂製的服務擴展到男鞋，在倫敦 New Bond Street （新龐德街）的店面提供訂製服務。
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每一雙鞋的鞋底鑲印顧客姓名的縮寫字母。完成的皮鞋將於在 4 周內送達全球各地，即使送到你泊在青島的私人遊艇上也不是問題。真正讓男士們從頭到腳都享有「量身訂做」。
除了高端的面料、優異的剪裁、講究的細節處理，更重要的，莫過於提供最好的服務。為了滿足顧客對於高品質的精細要求，一件 Ermenegildo Zegna 量身訂製西服由前片、後片、領和袖身等，至少由 173 個「部分」組成；此外還有許多選項，例如光是搭配西服的扣飾選擇就多達 20 種。
成立於 1910 年的 Ermenegildo Zegna ，雖然集團日益擴大，仍堅持保留在阿爾卑斯山 Biella 地區 Trivero 小鎮的立足點。他們的策略是在原產地收集最好的原料，並不斷提高生產過程中的技術。 Ermenegildo Zegna 原廠刻意保留傳統精選羊毛的流程，而堅持把高級訂製服的工廠設在瑞義邊境的 Lanificio ，據說主因是此地的水質有助於羊毛的清洗。
身為全球頂級男裝的領導者之一，每年 Ermenegildo Zegna 生產約 200 萬米的面料及 35 萬套西裝成衣。其中全球接單完全以手工完成的所謂「高級訂製」 MTM 西服的 Napoli Couture 最多只能供應 50 套訂單。此外， 70% 手工製的 Sartorial 系列，也都是在這間 Ermenegildo Zegna 第一代的布廠裡逐步完成。
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另外一種訂製西服「套量」業務，也屬 Ermenegildo Zegna 重要技藝傳統。目前在全球各地的直營專賣店，每年於春、秋季各有一次推廣。顧客可以從約十幾種尺碼的「樣衣」中找出最合適體態的款式，再經專人由樣衣量身修飾，送回原廠剪裁製作，同樣享有專屬服務。布料的種類更可能多達 400 至 500 款。
Ermenegildo Zegna 高級訂製西服要求所有襯裏及配件都使用天然材料：棉、馬毛及絲綢，每一件西服都有獨特的柔軟度。整件西服的最後工序均以手工完成，顧客縮名也以手工刺繡；所有的鈕釦均採用澳洲珍珠母貝製成，厚度為 4 mm 。另外，織品都是在紗線時就先染色處理，然後再把不同色階的紗線「混紡」成所要的織布，這工法也造就了 Ermenegildo Zegna 面料獨步業界的「特殊光澤」。
為了達到手工織造的最高等級， 1963 年開始， Ermenegildo Zegna 創立年了一項年度性的獎項，邀請世界各地著名的羊毛供應商進行評比，以激勵研究及生產品質更上層樓的羊毛。 2002 年， Zegna 更在澳洲 Sydney 舉辦了代表羊毛品質最高榮譽的第 1 屆「 Vellus Aureum Trophy 大獎」，由直徑僅有 11.7 micron 的羊毛榮獲冠軍，這種被譽為「 Golden Fleece 黃金羊毛」的織品由 Ermenegildo Zegna 獨家收購其最精華的等級。今天，這種只被用在訂製西服的織品，不但是織品界的一項傳奇，也是為 Ermenegildo Zegna 高級訂製西服撐起半邊天的招牌。
把玩手裡這冊以各種男裝布料作為封皮的筆記本，不禁讓人對 Ermenegildo Zegna ，心生無限嚮往。對織品的堅持、獨到的美學眼光，天天吸引著世界各地意欲「獨善其身」的有識之士，一償「量身訂製 Napoli Couture 」的宿願。
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In a noisy textile factory, colourful threads interlace on textile machines which are neatly lined up in a row. There are flosses and thread ends flying everywhere in the air. Many custom-made suits for the rich and the celebrities come to the world from here.
Consitec is a ready-made garments factory on the border of Italy and Swiss. It is also an important foothold of Italian Ermenegildo Zegna ' s high-end custom-made suits.
They have the most precise quality control, the best handmade craft and the greatest Vicuna fabric here.
Ermenegildo Zegna has an unquestionable place in the fashion industry. Early in the 70s, the brand already offered tailored-made suits, shirts, coats and ties. The customers can choose their preferred fabric. On the fringe of the fabric, both the name of the customer and the type of fabric will be shown. A Zegna custom-made suit consists of at least 173 “ parts ” , including front piece, rear piece, collar and sleeves. Besides, there are many other options, e.g. there are more than 20 accessory buckets to choose from.
Ermenegildo Zegna was established in 1920. Though the group has broadened its scope, it insists on staying at Trivero, a small town in Beilla area in the Alps. The original factory keeps the traditional fleece selecting procedure. It is said the water quality in Lanifacio is especially good for fleece cleaning.
Each year Ermenegildo Zegna produces about 2 million meter of suit fabric and 350 thousand of ready-to-wear suits. However, the hand-made MTM Napoli Couture suits are very limited. Only 50 of them come to the customers ' hands each year.
Zegna custom-made suit requires all the linings and accessories to be made of natural material: Cotton, horse hairs and silk. Each suit has its unique tenderness. The whole suit is handmade, and the initial of the customer ' s name will be embroiled on by hand. All the buttons are made of Australian pearl shell. The thickness is 4mm. Besides, the yarns are dyed into different colour levels then get blended to make the one fabric wanted. This technique also creates the “ specific lustre ” of Zegna which prevails against its counterparts.
To achieve the ultimate level of handmade fabric, Ermenegildo Zegna created an annual prize since 1963. It invites famous fleece providers around the world to compete, in order to encourage research and production of fleece of better quality. In 2002, Zegna held the first Vellus Aureum Trophy contest in Sydney. The championship was awarded to a fleece whose diameter is 11.7 micron long. The top level of this “ Golden Fleece ” was exclusively purchased by Ermenegildo Zegna. It is the golden signboard of Ermenegildo Zegna ' s high-end custom made-suits.
Ermenegildo Zegna ' s persistence and its unique esthetic taste tempt those who wish to experience the custom-made Napoli Couture suits. |
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