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本期雜誌　NO.10 Apr.-May. 06

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The Inner Elegance of Pearl

天使的眼淚

Text by Al Dente ‧ Photo by Chanel 、 Chaumet 、 Damiani 、 Dior 、 Tiffany & Co. 、 Mikimoto 、 VCA

有人說，珍珠是天使的眼淚。珍珠，這 90%-95% 碳酸鈣， 5%-10% 水和有機物的小玩意兒，卻成為世界性的珍寶。在印度，珍珠始於 5 千年前的古恒河文化；在西方，自羅馬時期開始，珍珠便成為皇室貴族的寶物。根據文獻記載，早在西元前 4 千年，禹帝已定「南海魚革璣珠大貝」為貢品；而自周文王時起，珍珠便被大量運用在珠寶首飾上。到了明清兩代，珍珠更被寵愛至高峰。某明代陵墓出土的鳳冠上，鑲有 5 千多顆珠寶，絕大多數為珍珠；慈禧太后陪葬的鳳冠上，更有約 625 克拉的巨型珍珠；連同被、袍、帳上所裝飾的大大小小無數珍珠，美不勝收、價值連城。

天賜珍珠

珍珠有天然與養殖兩種。但隨著海洋污染愈趨嚴重，天然的珍珠愈來愈少，養珠日形重要。人稱「養珠之父」的御木本幸吉，於 1893 年創立 Mikimoto ，並成功培育出第一顆養珠。並非每顆養殖的珍珠都可以成功，在嚴格的挑選之下，往往只有不到 10% 的珍珠有資格被製成珠寶。

珍珠如同鑽石一樣，有著基本的判斷標準，即大小、形狀、光澤、瑕疵、顏色。這 5 大因素都會影響價格。就大小而言，日本養珠的直徑在 2mm 至 10mm ，南洋珠與黑珍珠約在 10mm 以上。形狀上，除了基本的圓形之外，橢圓形、淚滴形、最近也流行不規則巴洛克形狀；當然，仍以正圓形為最佳選擇。光澤，俗稱「皮光」，是珍珠表面的反射光芒，如果呈現霧面或混濁不清，則評價較低。顏色方面，日本珍珠約分為銀白色、粉紅色、香檳色、藍色等 4 大色系，以粉紅色系最受歡迎。南洋珠，皮光帶點孔雀綠、黑、藍、灰、紅色的黑珍珠、白珍珠，或濃郁的金黃色珍珠，因為罕見特殊的皮光，和較為飽滿圓潤的質感，更備受喜愛。

經典與現代

珍珠的設計，基本上可分為「經典」與「現代」兩大類型。經典風的設計，顯得比較優雅、奢華。如美國前總統 Lincoln 就曾在 Tiffany & Co. 為其夫人選購了珍珠項鍊、胸針、手鐲和耳環，在就職日的晚宴中佩戴，優雅經典； Tiffany & Co. 相當擅長運用珍珠，例如「 Victoria 」系列項鍊，結合 18K 金交叉造型，將三排珍珠、 18K 金與鑽石，以交錯的方式展現豪華表情。

Bvlgari 則將百年的黃 K 鑲嵌技藝，加入珍珠，試圖重現 18 世紀蕾絲領子的鏤空優雅質感；法國皇室珠寶 Chaumet 的「 Frisson 冰晶珠寶」系列，延伸自冠冕鑽飾垂墜的線條，與大自然晨曦朝露的瞬間凝結，意圖運用多種不同的寶石，營造多種氛圍，而當中最受矚目的便是

鑽石與水滴形大溪地珍珠的結合，流暢的線條、可擺動的水滴形黑珍珠，將最經典、優雅的姿態，完整重現，讓人愛不釋手。

現代風的設計而言，因受限於珍珠避免與硬物碰撞，無法應用於鑽飾或金屬般的垂墜設，所以大多以線條的變化來表現。

近日的「 Les Perles de Chanel 香奈兒珍珠」世界珠寶巡迴展，以 Coco 香奈兒女士最喜愛的珍珠為主，延伸出珠寶系列；採用流暢活潑的線條，讓珍珠彷如拋在空中般，可隨著肢體擺動時自由波動，相當有趣。常為皇室貴族服務的 Damiani ，則是在一貫義大利的流暢線條裡，展現出獨特的設計美感與張力；「 Florian 」系列，把白 K 金化身為揮舞的彩帶，在環繞的瞬間，加入珍珠做點綴；「 Mimosa 」系列則是在高低層次的鑽石鑲嵌中，加入深淺色調的珍珠，以多層次的組合展現新摩登主義。

面對珍寶

Van Cleef & Arpels 隨著品牌逐漸年輕化，設計感強烈、輕鬆的珠寶，也愈來愈多；在經典花卉戒指的另一端，鑲嵌單顆珍珠做裝飾，為整個作品增添質感。而同樣作風大膽的 Dior 珠寶，自開始與設計師 Victoire de Castellane 合作之後，就持續成為時尚話題。 Victoire 擅長運用寶石原形作為設計靈感，她除了熱愛色彩豐富的半寶石與珊瑚之外，也喜愛不同形狀的珍珠，搶眼、誇張、大膽卻不落俗套的設計，不但滿足了她在的創作慾望，更豐富了女性在造型上搭配的可能

不論面對何種珍珠作品，都要先心存 Appreciation ：欣賞、感激與體會。每一顆珍珠的誕生都很難得；這些大自然的珍寶，粒粒都是獨一無二。天使的眼淚，我們永遠的珍愛。

Some say that pearl is the tear of angel. Pearl, this little thing consists of 90%-95% of calcium carbonate, 5%-10% of water and organic matter however is viewed as a treasure of the world.

A Gift from the God

There are two kinds of pearl: Natural pearl and cultured pearl.There are two kinds of pearl: Natural pearl and cultured pearl. Nevertheless, natural pearls are very rare today given

	Damiani用不同種類珍藉由排列組合,趣味盎然。.
	Damiani [Mimosa] necklace:Different facades of pearts are shown through
	all kinds of permutation combination
	以16種養珠園裏梨形黃水晶，Dior joaillerie 在奢華與優雅之間取得平衡。
	Dior Joaillerie ring:16rultured encompass pear shape yellow crystal.Beautiful balance between extravagance and elegance.

that sea pollution is rather serious.

Not every cultured pearl can be used. Under strict selection, only less than 10% of pearls can be made into jewelry.

Like diamonds, there are standards to judge pearl quality. The five factors which influence the price the most are: Size, shape, luster, blemishes and color. South sea pearl, of which the surface shine is slightly peacock green and black, white pearls or creamy gold-tone pearls which come in a variety of colors are all popular for their special surface shine and round shape.

Classic and Modern

Pearl design basically can be sorted into two styles: Classic and modern. The classic style is more elegant and luxurious. Tiffany & Co. is famous for utilizing pearls.

Take the Victoria collection for example, the necklace combines 18-carat gold, 3 rows of pearls and diamonds together. The intersecting design presents a sumptuous air. Bvlgari uses its hundred-year-old inlay technique to put pearls onto yellow gold to reproduce the exquisiteness of the 18 century hollowed lace collar. The Frison collection of French royal jewelry designer Chaumet features lines imitating diamond pendant son royal crowns. Among all, the most eye-catching design is the combination of diamonds and water-drop-shape Tahiti pearl.

As for modern style, designers often choose to display the beauty of pearl with variation of lines instead of pendant design which is often used for diamond and metals because pearls are morefragile. Les Perles de Chanel, the world jewelry traveling

	[絲路之旅]系列之[女神霓裳]巧妙運用珠?的光澤和流瀉的動感，
	表現如絲般的質感。
	Mikimoto[Over the silk road] goddess,Rode: ingeniously
	making use of the iuster flowing movement of pearl
	necklace to present a silk-like nature.

Facing the Treasexhibit which took place not long agogave first place to Mme Coco Chanel 's favorite— pearl. A fluent and lively line was introduced to poise the pearls in a thrown position so the jewelry shows a free wave when body moves. Damiani, who often serves the aristocracy and royal family, however presents a unique aesthetic perception and a tension among its consistent Italian flowing lines.

Facing the Treasure

Van Cleef & Arpels nowadays creates more simple but particular jewelries since it starts aiming at young customers. One single pearl is inlayed on the classical flower ring to make the work more valuable. Meanwhile, the bold Dior jewelry never fails to attract attention since it started working with Victoire de Castellane.

Whichever the work we are facing, we have to appreciate it. We have to appreciate and understand how precious pearl are. Each of them is a unique existence. They are the tears of angels, our treasure forever.

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